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Alright looks like a spun rod and maybe screwey crank???

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Sbeing1 said:
Ok well i went and just took off the bs belt. I put all the pulleys back on, belts, timing cover etc. I turn it on and i still have that clacking tapping noise....very discouraging. And to add to the madness I now have oil spilling out of my lower timing belt cover, what did I do wrong?? I dont understand and i have no idea what to do. If anyone can help I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks Guys!

It is probably the rear bs. The rear is the one that normally eats up bearings. It is driven off of the oil pump and a bs removal kit is required(unless you make your own) to keep it from functioning.
 
Sbeing1 said:
Ok well i went and just took off the bs belt. I put all the pulleys back on, belts, timing cover etc. I turn it on and i still have that clacking tapping noise....very discouraging. And to add to the madness I now have oil spilling out of my lower timing belt cover, what did I do wrong?? I dont understand and i have no idea what to do. If anyone can help I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks Guys!

Did you remove the the balance shaft tensioner when you removed the belt? If so, did you replace the tensioner bolt with a shorter one? If you left the hole open, it will leak oil. You need to thread a small bolt through that hole with some RTV to get a proper seal.

I agree that it may be the rear shaft. You should drop the oil pan and check bearing clearances and look for metal. If you dont want to do that, go buy a magnetic drain plug and change your oil. If the plug has metal flakes on it when you change your oil, that may motivate you to drop the pan.
 
Did this happen after going to the track. I havent downloaded your video but I would suspect a rod bearing.
 
92awddsm said:
It is probably the rear bs. The rear is the one that normally eats up bearings. It is driven off of the oil pump and a bs removal kit is required(unless you make your own) to keep it from functioning.

would this still cause the clanking/tapping im getting or is that the oil leak?
 
Ok well i have been told its not a rod bearing because when i step on the gas the sound doesnt get any stronger. My question is, what if i put a bolt back into that hole to block that hole and left it that way. Is it save to drive that car with a bad rear bs? the belt isnt attached so can i drive it anyway?? I need to get to work and school but im saving for the bs removal as we speak, just let me know cause i could use this car really bad right now :) LOL thanks for all the help guys!
 
If the belt is still in there, it might get caught on something and f*ck your whole engine. Many people don't replace / even check the BS belt and when it snaps on them it takes its toll on everything.
 
destruckeclipse said:
If the belt is still in there, it might get caught on something and f*ck your whole engine. Many people don't replace / even check the BS belt and when it snaps on them it takes its toll on everything.

no, see i already took off the belt. its gone...outa there. Is it ok to drive with it like this, no belt and a bad bs bearing? thanks:rocks:
 
As with any bad bearing, it is not healthy to drive like that. When you have a bad bearing the two metal surfaces, that usually are seperated by a thin layer of oil, scrape together. This causes particles of metal to be deposited in th oil pan ( under ideal conditions). So you figure well my oil filter will pick it up and all is good, but when you hit bumps or take a hard turn that contaminated oil spashes up onto the crank, pistons, cylinder walls, and oil squirters. Not the best place to have some nasty little metal flakes ruining the main and rod bearings and cylinder walls. Also, lets take a second to think about what would happen if that rear bs siezed. There is a grade 10 (metric) bolt back there holding it to the oil pump. The oil pump pushes oil directly from the pump through the shaft. Also the oil pump is connected to the timing belt via a cog type pully (just like on the cam shaft but smaller). If that bs stops spinning its going to be bad news. If I had your problem, and you are SURE it is the rear bs, I'd do the bs removal asap and put the stub shaft in there. I have a stub shaft in my collection (brand new) because when i did the rear bs removal i turned the counter weights down and reused the rear bs modified. PM me if you would like me to send it to you.
 
Eclipsethis90 said:
I have a stub shaft in my collection (brand new) because when i did the rear bs removal i turned the counter weights down and reused the rear bs modified. PM me if you would like me to send it to you.

I am also willing to help out. I dont have the factory stub or the oil pump saver modified shaft but I do have the knowledge, equipment and materials to make either for you. Just let us know what we can do.
 
92awddsm said:
I am also willing to help out. I dont have the factory stub or the oil pump saver modified shaft but I do have the knowledge, equipment and materials to make either for you. Just let us know what we can do.
Just to make sure everything is crystal clear. I think i wrote my original post a little screwy. I have installed the modifed shaft into my own car and since i have no use for the extra stub shaft for the oil pump I'll send it to you.
 
That would be great! Ill PM you right now!
 
Also, today i was putting my crank pulley back on and one of the 4 crank bolts snapped in half...err and now my pointed finger is blue and my mid finger is twice the size it used t be and pooring blood, LOL. Im thinking this is going to be a major problem and expense. Does anyone have any ideas on getting that snapped end out of the crank threads? thanks!
 
Sbeing1 said:
Also, today i was putting my crank pulley back on and one of the 4 crank bolts snapped in half...err and now my pointed finger is blue and my mid finger is twice the size it used t be and pooring blood, LOL. Im thinking this is going to be a major problem and expense. Does anyone have any ideas on getting that snapped end out of the crank threads? thanks!
Here's some good knowledge. Not the same bolt but the same concept.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=213692
 
guess what guys...... it isnt the balance shaft bearing....i don think. I was comming back from japtrix ( a awd dyno and performance shop) and i was driving on I95 and all of a sudden its like my car shifted to nuetral (im auto) so i try to downshift...nothing, i push it in reverse...no movement. but guess what, after sitting there for about a minute in idle on the side of the interstate.......i started to notice no clanking sound..no tapping...no nothing but smooth revving engine. i revved it a couple times, PERFECTION, no sounds just brrrrr. just....now i need a new tranny LOL. but at least i narrowed it down to the tranny hehe, guess i better get another balance belt too while im at it:p ahh, and interestingly enoough im not mad, i might spring for a 5spd swap or maybe a tq converter if i get auto again.
 
hmm any thoughts? i could use some opinions.
 
Sbeing1 said:
guess what guys...... it isnt the balance shaft bearing....i don think. I was comming back from japtrix ( a awd dyno and performance shop) and i was driving on I95 and all of a sudden its like my car shifted to nuetral (im auto) so i try to downshift...nothing, i push it in reverse...no movement. but guess what, after sitting there for about a minute in idle on the side of the interstate.......i started to notice no clanking sound..no tapping...no nothing but smooth revving engine. i revved it a couple times, PERFECTION, no sounds just brrrrr. just....now i need a new tranny LOL. but at least i narrowed it down to the tranny hehe, guess i better get another balance belt too while im at it:p ahh, and interestingly enoough im not mad, i might spring for a 5spd swap or maybe a tq converter if i get auto again.

so i take it you don't need the oil pump stud?
 
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