Adjusted cam gears, now code 52?

[bloody_angel111]

Well i was out adjusting the cam gears, because i just redid timing last week with a new tensioner, everything else is new, and everything is good, timing lines up even after running it, and since i have crower 2's and the head has been milled, the timing should be about half a tooth off at TDC, so i tried retarding both intake and exhaust cams by -2, since that what everyone else seems to do, so i tried that, and it runs about the same as before adjusting, but right after i did that, the CEL comes on, and its 52, o2 sensor detects a rich condition??? could me adjusting the cams do that, or is it something else doing that?

I just replaced the IAT and EGR valve after doing the timing because the codes were being thrown for both of them, so i dont think either of them could be causing the rich condition, and ive noticed that my blinky light a/f gauge has been running in the rich part most of the time, so i guess it does work since i got the code for running rich, so does anyone have an idea?

 

[dr1665]

I have no experience with milled heads, but I think it's wise to START at 0* on both gears and adjust from there. Dial it in as close to perfect as you can, then crank it over manually a couple times to be sure there is no interference. Then try starting her up.

At the same time, without any sort of means of leaning out the idle, those C2s are going to affect vacuum sufficiently to cause overly rich idle conditions, leading to random stalling until the ECU learns the curves and settles things down.

When I reset my ECU (disconnect the battery for repairs), my car stalls a good dozen times in the first day it's back online. Over time, it gets to the point of merely stumbling for a moment. The ECU is dumb as shit, but it's not that bad at idle. My grudge is in the top end...

 

[bloody_angel111]

Hey driggs, this is bloody_angel1 at 2gnt, is the site down or something, cause it wont work for me? Anyways, the gears were set at 0* for a week or so, until today because the cars seems to want to stall more often, like when i let off the gas quick, or go to slow down, it bogs down real bad, and you can almost hear the car shut off, thats why i wanted to try adjusting them, to see if i can get a little more vacuum from them since i know its low to begin with.

And like you said, the first day it will want to stall, then stumble after the first day, but my car has been like this since i had the head done, even after the battery has been reconnected for weeks, or even months, the computer would have learned by a week, but yet it still does this, and like i said, its been getting worse, not better, thats why i tried adjusting them, but i suppose its getting worse since the car is running really rich?

I would rehook up my AFC to try and lean it out, but i will just get the MAP sensor code, and i think that would make things worse than it is now, unless there is someway to have the AFC hooked up without throwing the MAP code?

 

[dr1665]

Well, I'm really unqualified to offer much more advice on the subject, but I can tell you there's a couple good write-ups on 2GNT about setting up the SAFC if you wanted to give it another shot. Unfortunately, like you said, there is something wrong with the internet this morning that is affecting our ability to hit 2GNT. The site is not down, but some company called Level3, a major internet pipeline/hub/whatever, is f*cking things up for us this morning. Data goes into their network, bounces around a few times, then dies. This is likely why you can't get there. It's there, but the road is out, if you will. Run a tracert on 2GNT and you'll see.

(I'm going through withdrawl symptoms myself.)

 

[bloody_angel111]

alright thanks, but do you know what might be causing my rich condition?