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99 gsx with 2.3l stroker value

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Definitely a turbo 6 bolt block.
Crank does appear to be a 100mm stroke. Make sure all the pistons have at least 0.05" of clearance from the skirt to the 1G oil squirters at BDC and that the big ends of the rods have the same on the block and main caps. The "hoops" are for strength. Actually, 7 bolt mains have a 1 piece girdle that makes all the main caps a single part. The thrust bearing is left on it's own in a 6 bolt block with the outermost mains tied to their neightbors, it was even once speculated that this design helped 6 bolts resist crankwalk but that's a different topic altogether.
Can't see the rods well, are they standard Eagle H beams? For whatever reason they don't look like they are in that picture.
It has main studs installed, so you might want to double check the clearances on the block's main bores. It's usually recommended that the mains be align honed if aftermarket studs are used. I agree with Charlie, if you can swing it you should consider having a machine shop check everything. Those main studs can affect a lot of things in the bottom end. But it does look like the guy who had it before you wasn't ignorant and did it right.



Degree those cams. The head and deck have been surfaced and BC's cams aren't known to be perfectly straight up every time anyway.

Thanks for the answers.

It has arp 200 rod studs, obviously I cant see exactly what rods they are but he said eagle. pistons also confirmed wiseco .20 over strokers. also has main studs. I'm probably going to get the kiggly 6 bolt girdle and have it line honed at the same time. it does look good but I"m definitely checking everything again

I wont be revving past 6.5-7k so the cams are in the classifieds. BNIB if anyone wants them :D

well maybe someone can id the rods from this picture.
 

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I know a stroker will tame them, but they're all made for top end. The head was built for top end too. larger 6 bolt ports plus ported. top end cams. all on a stroker. not sure if the guy knew that much of what he was doing. or maybe I'm over reacting and it'll still pull good at low rpm. I just dont like to rev high, and especially a stroker.

and I can get more for new cams and I want the fp3x. heard so many good things about them.


if it matters, I'm wanting the he351ve. but that's next year


also added picture of the rods in my previous post
 
I can't tell from that picture. Just run a finger down the beam of one of the rods, if it's an H beam it will have an "H" shaped profile where it's open ends are perpendicular to the crankshaft.

A stroker will have great midrange with those cams and that head. Still more torque than a similar CR'd 2.0L with 272 cams at low rpm .
 
rods look like EAGLE H-beam rods, i think there rated to 550-600hp

i also agree with (DELTA) i woul run the 280"s i had 272's in a 2.4 and it was a tourq monster but fell on its face at higher rpm, 15psi with a 4k free rev talk about anti-lag
:thumb:
 
those are my goals. people have made 650 on the stock rods. lets hope these can handle it as well. it'll be a weekend warrior, so it wont be abused alot.

How would 272's behave? even lower torque curve?


heres what it looks like under the hood. I know it's not pretty :coy:
thats the normal 7 bolt. the other motor is in the trunk.
 

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Well its finally coming home
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Btw what intercooler is this
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Thanks
 

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It looks like that piece of junk GReddy 24v intercooler, ditch it ASAP. Also where are the cam caps for that head? No matching cam caps makes that head worthless.
 
Update.
Started working on it whenever I have time. The motor in the car has been previously rebuilt. There's tags in the freeze plugs and gaskets look fresh.
Got a 60mm nt throttle body and put new seals in it.
Cleaned the lifters
found a maft in the trunk. :thumbup:
Got a sbr short route intercooler
7 blade hx-35 w/ 125k mi
And some smaller wheels.


To do:
Fidanza flywheel
Xtd 6 puck unsprung
Bolt head down (arp)
Install everything




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