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2G Manual Rack Solution

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Just wondering how thats possible...the ps fluid doesnt go anywhere near the pass side firewall/axle...Edit...I see that there is a line that crosses over the the passenger side....

Decoder...you have a pm

awdwhip...How has the car been responding lately? Also any pics under the hood to get an idea how much room I'll have?
I've found 1g pics but no 2g pics...I might just be putting in the wrong keywords...
 
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there's quite a few out there running with no issues and no complaints Ive had nothing but positive feedback i have the 2g Manual Rack on display at the shop and i also have it on one of the shop cars for people to test if there in the Addison IL Area *I Also Found Plugs Finally*
 

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Just got done buying a rack from Decoder, going to probably tackle installing it this weekend...awdwhip you go a nice detailed write up?
 
***Update*** I don't remember how long I've had this rack but It's still working just as good as when I first installed it.:thumb:
 
I would like to come in and feel this steering rack on the shop car.

PM me with details on when we can set up a time.
 
Would you be willing to do a writeup for those of us that do our own work?
 
I just got done installing the rack on tuesday and it completely feels like shit LOL....I KNOW my steering is WAY off though....So no worries from me once I get an alignment...

Here I'll do a slight write-up...Bare with me no pics were taken of the process....I used my cousins garage which he is an auto mechnic but I did 90% of the work myself just needed his help figureing what to do next...

Step 1: Get the front off the ground...preferable by using a lift...and remove the front tires....

Step 2: Get under car and disconnect the tie rod ends where they bolt to hub, and unbolt the 4 17mm (I think) bolts holding the rack up...Now make sure you dont mix up the bolts...the 2 shorter ones go to the passenger side, and the 2 longer ones go to the driver side....Also make sure you catch the little bracket that the bolts go through....You'll see what I mean when the time comes.....

Step 3: Unbolt the driverside gusset that bolts to the bottom of car...There are like 7 17mm bolts holding it on...

Step 4: Unbolt the swaybar...To make more room....I think either 4 14mm or 4 17mm....not sure...but make sure to catch the rubbers and brackets when the sway bar comes down....Also I disconnected the swaybar from the driver side hub assembly just in case...

Step 5 : Drain all fluid from the resevoir, remove P/S pump, and as much of the lines as possible, and remove the p/s pump bracket....I left my Front p/s cooler on the car b/c I didnt feel like removing my FMIC for the time LOL....

Step 6: Unbolt the last bolt holding the rack to the steering column and unbolt the rest of the P/s Lines should be 2 of them...Now the rack is Completely free...just no room to get it out....

Step 7: On my car I run the factory exhaust and its completely 1 Piece...its welded together....On YOUR car it may be different.....But I had to Unbolt Downpipe from the o2 housing, and disconnect the exhaust hangers all the way to the rear o2 sensor.....If you unbolt the downpipe from catback and o2 housing you should be fine....

Step 8: And the worst step of all....Unbolt the tranfer case and pull it off the tranny 5 17mm bolts...Since I had my car up in the air I had a tranny jack hold the exhaust and the transfer case on my shoulder....You will need to have a 2nd person pull the rack out then....The lines on the rack cant clear the rear end of the transfer case thus it needs to be yanked....

Step 9: Put new rack in and get it positioned in there...Put t-case back on bolt it on, bolt exhaust back up, bolt rack up, bolt swaybar back up....

Step 10: Now remove the tierod ends from the stock rack and eyeball approx where they are...install on new rack....

Step 11: Put wheels back on and drop car down, remove the rest of the p/s lines....I had 1 bolt under my clutch fluid resevoir, which will need to be unbolted, and 1 bolt on the subframe...Unbolt the brake fluid resevoir...gives more room to snake the lines out now...

Step 12: Get the steering column thing back on the rack and bolt it down...

Step 13: Clean up the area where any fluid might have spilled, wipe down everything and enjoy the room you now have....

Not sure if I missed anything as this was a quicky write up....
Also dont be an idiot like me and when your pulling the p/s lines off, you knock the lid off the clutch fluid resivoir and dump the fluid everywhere......I now need to bleed my clutch again due to everytime I press the clutch in, with the car in gear it grinds LOL....

Overall it took me 4.5 hours to install....Air tools was a big help too....
 
What do you mean feels like shit?
I'm still waiting for the OP to give me the address so I can feel the rack myself.
 
you have to get a alignment the shop address is 367 s rohlwing rd addison IL 60101 unit N Mon-Fri 4PM-10PM Sat 1pm- 10pm or later any other questions PM Me
shop phone number 630-424-2868 or pm me with questions

www.msptuned.com under construction at the moment
 
Can I stick with a power steering rack with no power steering pump forever and save money? Mine is squeaking a little and I'm fine with that but will it eventually seize up?
 
I run with looped lines and it drives and parks with ease. If you dont have a vag you should be able to turn the modded rack with 2 fingers, unless its worse then looped lines...
 
Ok, I'm going to say this is the biggest waste of time ever. I pm'd decoder multiple times and said I was going to go to the shop and try out the rack and have yet to get a response. He was even online today.
So I give up.
 
Ok, I'm going to say this is the biggest waste of time ever. I pm'd decoder multiple times and said I was going to go to the shop and try out the rack and have yet to get a response. He was even online today.
So I give up.

Weird, I've contacted him multiple times about the rack and about a price quote for a part and he always answered on pm, AIM, and phone.
 
Everytime I dealt with Decoder, he was very prompt always answered my calls/text/emails etc...
 
Ok, I'm going to say this is the biggest waste of time ever. I pm'd decoder multiple times and said I was going to go to the shop and try out the rack and have yet to get a response. He was even online today.
So I give up.

call me 773-503-2285 my personal cell its on 24-7 also the shop is open 7 days a week im not there on sundays so your best bet is mon-sat after 4 pm pm me with your number ill try to call you back asap
 
Just an update.....Took the car to the local firestone for an alignment.....They put it on the rack hooked everything up, lowered it back down and said we can't align it....:banghead:

Well when I installed the rack it took me 4.5 hours....but I didnt put it in correctly....I must have forgot to lock the wheel or something :banghead:....Well lets just say the rack needed to be pulled off AGAIN. This time I wasnt the one pulling the rack out fixing then reinstalling it....

But overall it cost me 525 to get everything in check....170 for a LIFETIME alignment and the rest in labor cost to pull and redo the rack....

Yeah I know overpriced but I didn't feel like yanking the rack again, plus I work between 70-80 hours a week so not much time to do jack....

But since everything is almost back to spec it felt so so so much nicer than when the rack wasnt in right.....

I love the feeling now and really glad I did this mod granted it is a bit hard when at a standstill but the moment your moving I can turn it with 1 hand....I am not the strongest guy in the world but I can hold my own with these cars per se.....Props to decoder for the rack.....:thumb:

To give a clue how bad the rack was out of alignment, imagine lock to lock is say 3 turns of the wheel so dead center is 1.5 or in the middle.... the wheel was on the left 2.0 per se.....:notgood:

I could only turn the wheel left one turn but right twice.....plus the wheels were pointing to the left quiet a bit LOL
 
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