1st Rebuild Need Some serious help

[rigs50]

ok last summer my tsi overheated warped the head and spun a rod bearing which chewed my crank to crap and also scratched up the rod pretty good. I didnt have time to mess with it and started drivin my truck. now im goin to rebuild the car an have it all stripped down.
I bought a good used crank and good used head to replace my bad ones head checks out crank checks out standard size and all. Now i found all bearings rings and full gasket set $110 and new rod for $50. but i know somene who will sell me a whole bottom end for 100 should i buy just the new rod or take my chances on his and put them on my crank. he also said one of his bearings was spun. either way im using 3 rods from one of the cranks and one oddball. But they should all match right? they are from exact same model car. im on a tight budget but need it to run as it will be my dd. Will i need the rods/crank resised or would anyone take a chance on just swapping bearings as long as they are still in good shape. Also would i need to have the block sent out for anything. Please any help would be appreciated because this car is really frustrating me.

 

[LKWTSI]

In my opinion... it's never a good a idea to run used bearings

Spend the extra and get the new set and a rod and be done. Chances are using someelses old bearings will only lead to more headaches and more money in long run.

 

[rush2252]

+10 mixing and matching used critical parts is a huge waste of time. It might run it might now and a 50/50 shot IMO isnt very good odds. You can find 6bolt bottom ends all day long. I wouldnt recommend it but you could buy a reman/turned crank from a parts store for about $200 if you cant find a good bottom end. That would be better odds than what you stated

-Kolby

 

[rigs50]

ok ya of course i would never run used bearings ive bought new ones with all new gaskets. My only concern is will the three rods from my original crank and one brand new one work on my new crank? The crank measures exact to stock spec and the rods look to be in good condition. I was only gonna buy that other guys stuff to have extra parts and now he's throwin the block in also.

 

[rush2252]

Ive had luck replacing a single ROD when rebuilding one with a new crank. But it was a DD and a non turbo car. If your questioning it chances are youve already decided against it. Its very hard to say. IF you decide to do it make sure you use the correct rod caps and plasti-gauge EVERYTHING! it doesnt lie~

Kolby

 

[Jeff99GS]

As long as the the new rod is from a 6 bolt and in good shape you'll be fine. If you're REALLY worried about a slight difference in the new rod, WEIGHT each rod. FIND the lightest one. and match the other 3 to that one by slightly trimming material away with a die grinder on the outside of the Rod Cap. Remember you only need to shave off a tiny bit to match them. They might not need any trimming at all.

Then all 4 of them will be a balanced matched set.

Bolt the Cap on and torque it to spec. Then use a dial bore Gauge to check the bore of all 4 rods. Make sure they are all within spec.

Also check the Machining marks on the inside of the rod bore to see if they all match up across the Rod and Cap sections of the bore. That way you will know if the Cap is the right one for that rod.

 

[rigs50]

awesome thanks so much guys. I went ahead and just now ordered the new rod should be here in a day or two. I'll have them weighed like you said and with the new standard bearings im hoping it all turns out fine, bc im gonna be needing this car daily. I dunno if im even gonna bother buyin that other block and bottom end as long as this all works out, unless i just decide to build a spare motor thanks again and wish me luck with all this

 

[Jeff99GS]

Since you spun a rod bearing you are going to have tiny metal particals all through out the engine oil passages. You HAVE GOT to clean all of this out of the engine or you will likely spin a bearing soon after the engine is rebuilt.

When the engine is apart use BRAKE/PARTS cleaner to spray through ALLLL of the oil galleries, including the oil filter housing and head parts. Also the Turbo bearings and turbo oil passages (oil feed line/return line) should be cleaned. It is VERY important to get all of those shavings out of the enigne so they don't ruin all the new bearings.

 

[lacroixdp]

I had the exact same thing happen back in college when I was on a very tight budget. I reused all my rods, crank, and block - I got away with only getting a micropolish on the crank to work out what I thought were some nasty scratches. If I were you, I'd take it to a machine shop and just ask the guy his opinion on your crank... you may be able to get by with a micropolish too, depending on how 'chewed up' it is. Instead of paying to get my head rebuilt, I bought a used one from a junkyard for $80. I slapped it in as-is after cleaning the mating surface and checking for flatness. If it comes down to that crank of yours needing a grind, I'd buy that bottom end instead and micropolish that crank personally. Best of luck to you!

 

[rigs50]

wow thanks for reminding me to clean the oil journals and all that bc i completely forgot abouth that little detail. Im gonna use this other crank i bought and try to get rid of my chewed one. the one i have looks good and all i just gotta clean everything real well and i have a machine shop doin a valve job on my new head and checkin it out for me. hopefully if all the parts get here on time ill be able to have it done this weekend.....but im sure you all know how that sometimes turns out.

 

[LKWTSI]

ok ya of course i would never run used bearings ive bought new ones with all new gaskets. My only concern is will the three rods from my original crank and one brand new one work on my new crank? The crank measures exact to stock spec and the rods look to be in good condition. I was only gonna buy that other guys stuff to have extra parts and now he's throwin the block in also.

Didn't mean to insult ya, just the way your OP read, it sounded like you were considering a cheap replacement to get back on the road. As everyone else pointed out all the obvious, have at it.