1G Heater Blower Help

[hazzard74]

While trying to fix my rear window defrost, I have lost power to my heater blower motor. I'm not too proficient at wiring diagrams and I'm stumped. Here are some things I have disturbed before the motor stopped working (I'll be as descriptive as possible):

• the relay to the right of the fuses in the fuse block under dash
• the relay under the rubber boot in the engine compartment just behind the battery.
• the relay in the engine compartment marked fog (lower left one)
• I have also had the dash apart (to check the defrost switch)
• various continuity and voltage checks

There is no power going to the blower relay with the ignition on (black wire w/blue stripe).

I've checked/replaced 30a and 10a fuses under dash. Verified 12V to both of these with ignition on.
I get voltage to the relay with blower switch in positions 1-4. Replaced heater relay. When I turn the switch, the relay only clicks when it gets to position 4. I took the dash apart again to make sure nothing came disconnected and damaged wires.

I have checked everything I can find on every forum and website I can get to. Except for the rear window defrost, everything else works fine: windows, radio, horn, etc.

I live in Oregon and I can't really drive this time of year with no defroster. I'm sure I prob screwed something up somewhere, and any help to fix this is greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance for help.

 

[ThunderChild]

Sounds like you're blower motor resistor is shot, is this a 1g or 2g?

 

[hazzard74]

Sounds like you're blower motor resistor is shot, is this a 1g or 2g?

It's a 1g.
The resistor is on the other (ground) side of the circuit. This is the black/blue wire that goes to the blower relay. It should have power when the ignition is turned on.
Is there another fuse, relay for fusible link in the circuit I am missing?
Thanks

 

[ThunderChild]

I'll take a look at alldata to say when I'm at work

 

[hazzard74]

I've replaced the blower resistor and the blower relay. No change.
Could it be the switch? Is there a way to test it before shelling out $60 for a new one?
Any help is appreciated.