These for the USA 2g turbo models:

luv2rallye said:

These for the USA 2g turbo models:

2G Turbo ECU Pinouts

2G - 2g Turbo ECU Pinout w/ wire colors

This article shows the wire colors for every pin on a 2g turbo ecu.See You must be registered to see element. for how to identify ECU pin numbers.You must be registered to see element. You must be registered to see element. You must be registered to see element. You must be...

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2G - 2g DSM 95-96 97-99 wiring schematics, ECU pinouts, diagrams, TCU diagrams, ECT.

I started a thread on an electrical issue i was having. And came across lots of 2g 95-96, 97-99 wiring information. But it was across many threads and websites. so i would like to put it all in one place for everybody!This is what i have so far!!!I would like this thread to contain as much...

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This is one of the threads that I already found it but im not sure what to do to test on workbench, I don't wanna fry something, and I'm trying to find the PCB circuit diagram, to tell me which component does.

I’m not aware of any PCB circuit diagram.

As far as testing goes there are some continuity / resistance checks that can be performed with just the ECU connected. This is from the 1996 USDM manual:




Other testing, though these are more with the ECU in the car and with certain conditions, are below.

19Eclipse90 said:

I’m not aware of any PCB circuit diagram.

As far as testing goes there are some continuity / resistance checks that can be performed with just the ECU connected. This is from the 1996 USDM manual:

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Other testing, though these are more with the ECU in the car and with certain conditions, are below.

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Thanks, we are trying to simulate the ecu working on bench for repairs, we can already make the ECU crank, thanks to @steve but we need to simulate an idle to full test the components

gontijexx said:

we need to simulate an idle to full test the components

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A few people back in the day of DSMECU yahoo group used a JimStim with the 1G ECU to test their modifications to the firmware. I cheated and used real vehicles that I knew functioned properly for final testing and built hardware to check out other parts of the ECU as needed.

Besides ECMTuning I'm not aware of anyone doing the same or able to do the same with 2G ECU's.

Hey folks, I’ve fixed @gontijexx 's ECU.

I was able to fully simulate the startup process on the bench.

I replicated the MPI relay circuit and the key OFF → ON → START states using buttons, so I can wake the ECU exactly like when the key is turned.

After that, I feed a square wave (~5 Vpp) into the crankshaft sensor input, which makes the ECU think the engine is actually running.

I also connected a potentiometer to the coolant temperature sensor input, so I can simulate any coolant temperature.

I set up LEDs on the fan, ISC, CEL, and fuel pump outputs to monitor ECU behavior on the bench.

Before the repair, the ECU was indeed turning the fan on permanently.

It still had the original electrolytic capacitors installed, and two of them had leaked and damaged PCB traces.

After a full recap and trace repair, the fan behavior returned to normal.
Tested the ECU in my car – it worked perfectly.
OBD2 test: not working.

Since this 305162 ECU (the same “shady” model I’m running in mine, @steve ) still had the original EPROM, we can now confirm that 5162 ECUs do not support OBD by default, but they do support it if you flash the 309947 bin into them.

I did this on @gontijexx ’s ECU and installed a socket while I was at it.

OBD started working, and the ECU is now shipped back to him.

I’m planning to develop a full bench test jig for these ECUs, since many Brazilian Eclipse owners have issues with theirs (most of them have the unknown 305162 ECUs).

Bench testing is way better than risking my own car every time...

I’ll prepare a video about this jig soon!

Also, I think being able to replicate all of the inputs and outputs is already halfway towards developing a complete programmable plug-and-play ECU… let’s see where this goes.

Do you have a you tube channel?

dfootedsm said:

Do you have a you tube channel?

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not yet! I am in the process of moving to a new house, and this means my whole electronics lab as well, but I do plan on creating tiktok/youtube channels to post the ecu work Im doing once I move everything.

So far I have ressurected 5 or 6 ECUs from fellow brazilian DSM owners, and also my own. Most of them suffered from leaking capacitors, and the symptoms most of the time are bad idle and weird working radiator fan.

Cheers!

I have a bread board and several ecus my primary ecu doesn't cycle the CEL flash or rotate my starter.I want to test it and fix it or all 3 I have

The ECU doesn't control the starter. Perhaps you have a power issue and neither the starter or the ECU are getting powered.

I don't think the ECU controls the starter motor:


Ignition Switch (ST) comes from the ignition switch itself, and should be +B while you turn the key to the START position.

This signal is also used by the ECU (Pin 71) to start the fuel pump.

The fact that it does not blink CEL also points to the ignition switch, or maybe something wrong with +B itself...

I disconnected my clutch safety switch it didn't turn over. I traced it a bit further back and disconnected a rectangle plug up by dashboard controls. It turns over but wont run. It fires but won't keep running. Draining my old fuel and trying again. My odb plug wont connect to ecmlink the voltage on pin 62 and 56 are 3.7 and 4.4 did the step up fail internally?

dfootedsm said:

I disconnected my clutch safety switch it didn't turn over. I traced it a bit further back and disconnected a rectangle plug up by dashboard controls. It turns over but wont run. It fires but won't keep running. Draining my old fuel and trying again. My odb plug wont connect to ecmlink the voltage on pin 62 and 56 are 3.7 and 4.4 did the step up fail internally?

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What is the ECU part number? MD30xxxx.

Bypassing the clutch switch was a smart move!

I don't think you'll see much with a multimeter on the OBD pins, especially pin 62, since it carries serial data. (With an oscilloscope, you should see digital signals on this pin.)

2G ECUs have a "backup" power supply (just like the voltage that keeps the original radio presets and the clock memory). This backup power supply should have +B even with the car off and the key out of the ignition. It is fed to pin 80 of the ECU and keeps the ECU dormant while the car is off, preserving past OBD alarms and etc.

After you turn the key to the ON position, without starting the car, the MPI relay sends +B to pins 12 and 25 of the ECU, waking it up and getting it ready for engine start. When the ECU wakes up, it will always make the CEL blink, regardless of past alarms.

If yours doesn't make the CEL blink at all, I’d advise checking the MPI relay (do you get +B at pins 12/25 after turning the key to ON?) and the backup power (do you get constant +B at pin 80?)

If I understood correctly, you have spare ECUs, right? Does the car start with any of them?

Most 2G ECUs will suffer from leaking capacitors. If those are not replaced before they leak, the corrosion tends to kill the ECU... Did you ever open this ECU?

Cheers

dfootedsm said:

I disconnected my clutch safety switch it didn't turn over. I traced it a bit further back and disconnected a rectangle plug up by dashboard controls. It turns over but wont run. It fires but won't keep running. Draining my old fuel and trying again. My odb plug wont connect to ecmlink the voltage on pin 62 and 56 are 3.7 and 4.4 did the step up fail internally?

Click to expand...

Also, you mentioned that bypassing the clutch switch made the engine try to start, but it dies shortly afterward. Will the engine keep running if you spray WD-40 directly into a vacuum line? If it stays running while you spray it, that would also point to a bad ECU (in your particular case)...

If you need help diagnosing a bad ECU, I could help by bench-testing it, but I live in Brazil, and I don’t think the shipping cost would be worth it compared to the cost of a "new" ECU in the US...

Feel free to DM me if you want...

Good luck!

Lintu said:

What is the ECU part number? MD30xxxx.

Bypassing the clutch switch was a smart move!

I don't think you'll see much with a multimeter on the OBD pins, especially pin 62, since it carries serial data. (With an oscilloscope, you should see digital signals on this pin.)

2G ECUs have a "backup" power supply (just like the voltage that keeps the original radio presets and the clock memory). This backup power supply should have +B even with the car off and the key out of the ignition. It is fed to pin 80 of the ECU and keeps the ECU dormant while the car is off, preserving past OBD alarms and etc.

After you turn the key to the ON position, without starting the car, the MPI relay sends +B to pins 12 and 25 of the ECU, waking it up and getting it ready for engine start. When the ECU wakes up, it will always make the CEL blink, regardless of past alarms.

If yours doesn't make the CEL blink at all, I’d advise checking the MPI relay (do you get +B at pins 12/25 after turning the key to ON?) and the backup power (do you get constant +B at pin 80?)

If I understood correctly, you have spare ECUs, right? Does the car start with any of them?

Most 2G ECUs will suffer from leaking capacitors. If those are not replaced before they leak, the corrosion tends to kill the ECU... Did you ever open this ECU?

Cheers

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My ecu. The connector that allowed me get the Motor to crank.my ecu wont connect to ecmlink but laptop shows cable is active. Wont connect to ecu though.

dfootedsm said:

My ecu. The connector that allowed me get the Motor to crank.my ecu wont connect to ecmlink but laptop shows cable is active. Wont connect to ecu though.

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To dive a little deeper into the ECU logic:

Pin 80 receives constant backup +B. This unswitched power supply keeps the ECU’s memory alive, allowing its RAM to retain stored data even when the ignition is off.
In its standby state, the ECU remains inactive while monitoring pin 82, which carries the IG1 ignition signal.

When the ignition switch sends +B to pin 82, the ECU responds by grounding pin 38. This energizes the MFI relay, supplying power to ECU pins 12 and 25.

Once voltage reaches pins 12 and 25, the ECU’s internal reset circuitry initializes the system. At this point, the CEL should illuminate.
Another key input is pin 71, which receives the START signal from the ignition switch. When this line goes high, the ECU transitions into its engine start logic.

Once the engine begins rotating and the CAS starts generating pulses, the ECU grounds pin 8, which is the fuel pump control output.
If the engine stops and CAS pulses cease, or if the ignition is switched off, the ECU releases this signal, and the fuel pump shuts down after a few seconds.

The fact that the computer recognizes the ECMLink cable only confirms that the USB side of the cable is functioning properly.

If it still won’t connect to the ECU, the likely causes are a faulty ECU, a problem with the ECU power supply, or missing ignition switch signals reaching the ECU.

Cheers!