transmission or go fast?

[Mitsubishified]

Ok heres the deal, Im getting paid 3700 at the end of the month. I'am just now getting my motor which is a race build with ross pistons and manley rods out of the shop.(Its already been paid for) My question is should i get a transmission from shep/tre or get go fast parts. First off i don't know what kind of shape my tranny is in because i bought it off some other guy. Secondly my goal is to put down 350-400 awhp down daily as my dd however raise it up when going to the track. My reasoning is that i could have a solid foundation to work with beings i would have a new motor and new tranny. My cousin and a few other dsmers think i should get go fast parts and run it until my tranny goes out then buy the new tranny. I will be getting paid another 1700 dollars in january so i could buy some parts then. Im just wanting to know what my fellow dsmer's would do. Also i want to get my car painted so if i bought the tranny i could save up a little more and get my car painted because its been such a damn long time since i have actually had a car that looked decent. Then i would have a practically brand new car to drive around then build up. Thanks for the input guys,
Luke

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Personally, I bought a brand new Shep stage 3 tranny that cost me like $3080 I think to get it to my door. And a rebuilt is cheaper. You should have more than enough to get a tranny and still have a few left over for some gofast parts depending on what you're trying to get.

 

[theycallmedalgo]

get a used shep tranny for under a grand and then buy go fast parts as well, used of course. would save a lot of money

 

[fourreGsixty3]

You have enough to do the trans. and some speed mods. Here is a link to TREs performance build>>> http://www.teamrip.com/DSM_AWD_STAGE2_REBUILD_SERVICE.html, and here is one to a good Shep build>>> http://www.sheptrans.com/details.php?sid=6. The choice is yours on which to go with, both are proven over, and over again. I have heard Shep has customer service second to none, but I have heard the same from guys with trans. from TRE. Either way you go you will have about 2200$ left to spend on speed mods.

Dustin

 

[twocanewayne]

Get the tranny, no question so you know you have a good foundation to work from. Then get the mods. NO tranny and mods will not get you anywhere.

 

[Decker0004]

I personally try to build everything around adding power before I get it. Go for the Transmission.

 

[Mitsubishified]

You have enough to do the trans. and some speed mods. Here is a link to TREs performance build>>> http://www.teamrip.com/DSM_AWD_STAGE2_REBUILD_SERVICE.html, and here is one to a good Shep build>>> http://www.sheptrans.com/details.php?sid=6. The choice is yours on which to go with, both are proven over, and over again. I have heard Shep has customer service second to none, but I have heard the same from guys with trans. from TRE. Either way you go you will have about 2200$ left to spend on speed mods.

Dustin

Yeah one of my friends got the stage two from tre, they sent his transmission straight to his door, and even sent him a box to ship it out with they really do have great customer service. Should i go with the stage two for what i want or just splurge on the stage 3? Thanks for the advice guys.
Luke

 

[nightspeed87]

I say always get the best parts ( stages ) the first time so you would have to regret later, because you never know your future intentions so better to be safe than sorry right. Get the tranny first ( get it used ) like the other guy was saying and that should leave you enough money left over to get your paint job and maybe even a few minor bolt ons... ( logger/ mbc/ intake filter and hardpipes ) to get you started...

 

[T_K]

I personally try to build everything around adding power before I get it. Go for the Transmission.

YES!

I personally am building first everything necessary for a bigger turbo and will get the turbo at the very last step.

 

[Mitsubishified]

I say always get the best parts ( stages ) the first time so you would have to regret later, because you never know your future intentions so better to be safe than sorry right. Get the tranny first ( get it used ) like the other guy was saying and that should leave you enough money left over to get your paint job and maybe even a few minor bolt ons... ( logger/ mbc/ intake filter and hardpipes ) to get you started...

This is a good idea but im always worried about how the other person treated their used parts. I like the satisfaction that i know how the transmission has been treated since ive had it, because who knows how the other person treated it. Is there any way to tell if a tranny is bad just from looking at it when its outside of the engine bay?
Luke

 

[swade]

This is a good idea but im always worried about how the other person treated their used parts. I like the satisfaction that i know how the transmission has been treated since ive had it, because who knows how the other person treated it. Is there any way to tell if a tranny is bad just from looking at it when its outside of the engine bay?
Luke

if your buying a used shep stage 3 or tre equivalent i dont think there is all that much that can hurt it... and just straight up ask them how it worked... most DSMers wont give ya the short end...

swade

 

[Mitsubishified]

Thanks for the advice guys i think im going to try and find a used shep or tre stage 3 tranny or shell out additional cash and get mine rebuilt. Either way ill have a brand new motor/tranny and paint. I can hardly wait, its been such a long time since ive seen a really nice dsm rolling around here.
Luke

 

[fourreGsixty3]

I would say just get the trans rebuilt for TRE or Shep. I know these trans.' are made to handle the abuse, but I wouldnt want to buy something that I knew was put in because it will with stand a higher amount of being beaten on, I would reather do the beating on the trans. I will be splurging for a stage 3 TRE trans within the next 2 yrs, along with a much more powerful set-up, I am kind of more atracted to TRE because they offer little customization's like the double synchro GVR-4 first gear (AWD only), and lots more. After a trans. and a good paint job your cash will be pretty well tapped, just keep in mind it will be much more cost for a paint color change, then to do a new same color, or very close to color. I would wait until January and get the parts then because you will have plenty of down time to put the parts on during the snowy season, and enjoy the new power during the cool spring time temps.

Dustin

 

[pur97tsifwd]

If i was you i would send the tranny off and get it done get an lsd clutch and flywheel and all new syncro in that babby you need a good strong tranny to go fast and be reliable then you can go fast

 

[Mitsubishified]

I can get my paint job for roughly 2000 give or take a few hundred because im keeping my stock color. For some reason the teal color is starting to look really good to me especially when i put in black leather seats. There aren't many 1gb's that are teal with black leather seats which is a plus for me. TRE does have more customizable options but those options also cost extra money. Also for anybody who wants to know I emailed teamrip/TRE about the stage two holding 400awhp daily. He said that the stage 2 tranny would be great for my plans, the only thing he would do extra is give it the 4 spider center diff and forged shift rails. Other than that he said it would be capable of living a long life with a daily driven 400awhp car.

 

[fourreGsixty3]

I have a teal 1Gb the color does grow on you. I personally would do the GVR-4 first gear as well, but the shift fork upgrade is a good idea. Plus the TRE stage 2 is cheaper then the Shep stage 2. You could have a few hundred left for some small stuff like a cheap eBAY FMIC, and a ported 2G exhaust manifold.

Dustin

 

[Wildeclipse2000]

I would have to agree with everyone that a good tranny is going to be the only way your car will go fast with any kind of go fast parts in it.

However I don't personally like the GVR4 first gear, especially with a Fidanza flywheel. The car has a tendance to want to bog off the line, and in stop and go city driving it gets to be a pain. Now if you go with a little bit heavier flywheel like the ACT then it isn't so bad, but still not real great for daily driving.

 

[Mitsubishified]

I have a teal 1Gb the color does grow on you. I personally would do the GVR-4 first gear as well, but the shift fork upgrade is a good idea. Plus the TRE stage 2 is cheaper then the Shep stage 2. You could have a few hundred left for some small stuff like a cheap eBAY FMIC, and a ported 2G exhaust manifold.

Dustin

I already have a gt manifold from turbochargers.com wildeclipse2000 somewhere on this board i remember shep saying that the vr4 first gear wasn't that much different than our first gear. Do you know why it would bog more? I have a spec flywheel and its pretty much the same weight as a fidanza.
Luke

 

[Wildeclipse2000]

The GVR4 first gear is taller, and with the extremely light flywheel, you have to rev higher, when you release the clutch so it doesn't stall.

I remeber years ago when I got my first shep tranny with the GVR4 first gear, John told me that if I was going to be driving it around the city it would not be fun, as the car would want to stall with the lightweight flywheels.

This is why the ACT chromoly flywheel helps a little, it keeps the rotating mass spinning at its current rpm. If you have ever driven a car with a Fidanza flywheel when you let off the gas the car slows down much faster than a car with a heavier flywheel.

I had a 97 GST Spyder I converted to AWD and I originally had a fidanza flywheel in it. But because I was driving the car everyday, I hated how quickly the car wanted to slow down when I let off the throttle. So I changed it out for an ACT XACT and the problem was solved.

 

[fourreGsixty3]

You might want update your profile since the exhaust manifold isnt in there. I would still say get an eBAY FMIC for cheap, and then get a logger, and a S-AFC ro Link, what ever you want but I recommend some kind of tuning device, then do a turbo, and supporting mods for that turbo...also you may want to look into cams...like DKS 272s, or Comp 200s, or FP 2s, or HKS 264/272 set-up. Also on a side note with the eBAY FMICs dont use the piping they give you have some short route piping custom made, with the amount they give you you could make a rollcage

Dustin

 

[HustlerTalon]

I wished I would have bought a tranny with all the money I spent on my car. It just that I had seen people run the stock tranny on high HP cars and I was like I will do that too. Before I was running a 20g turbo setup on my car that roughly made 340awhp and my stock tranny held up. But now I have a built motor on a bigger turbo and frankly I am afraid of breaking my tranny especially since I want to rev high. Go with the tranny for sure. I wish I did.

 

[Mitsubishified]

You might want update your profile since the exhaust manifold isnt in there. I would still say get an eBAY FMIC for cheap, and then get a logger, and a S-AFC ro Link, what ever you want but I recommend some kind of tuning device, then do a turbo, and supporting mods for that turbo...also you may want to look into cams...like DKS 272s, or Comp 200s, or FP 2s, or HKS 264/272 set-up. Also on a side note with the eBAY FMICs dont use the piping they give you have some short route piping custom made, with the amount they give you you could make a rollcage

Dustin

Sorry bout that, i didn't think the manifold was an upgrade to put into the profile. Yeah i would like to buy dsmlink sometime soon, because i already have an eprom ecu. Ultimately what ill end up doing (this is in order) is buy my tuning software, intercooler, fuel mods, turbo, then cams. Im going to try and find a fp red or something to that nature. As far as cams i was looking at ffwd cams the 272's grind. Im still confused of what will be better for a 60-1 turbo like that, but thats what i looked on here people like to use for those monster turbos. Also would it be wise to pay for a really nice intercooler kit or just make your own piping for the intercooler core that you can buy off ebay? I don't have any experience with bending pipes so i don't know if i could or not.
Luke