Kyle Henny's Drag GSX

[Archer Fabrications]

I'm think i might be doing the 3586 with the billet chra, FP is saying the 3794 will make full boost by 5500 but even then when i had a compressor cover leak and wouldnt hit full boost til 5500 it wasnt fun. Also for the 3794 i realized I'd be needing things like a dog box and twin disk that i can't nearly afford. Right now.

The billet chra 3586 isnt on sale but i think it's worth the extra $400 to have a rebuildable ballbearing turbo incase something ever happens i won't have to junk the chra. Billet chra Still on back order either way. And people in evo land are making high700 hp almost 800 with the 3586

 

[bradselph]

Wait your 10.7 was on street tires... that should be added as another record..

Yea, that's with some regular old street tires on 17s. I'm sure I would have done better the next pass as I upped the boost from 32-33 to 34-35psi but broke the rear axle on launch.

Yea, don't you ever see how they ripple/wrinkle up?

I understand the wrinkle gives more traction and a spring effect, but I always figured more traction means more broken parts.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Heres a other picture of FP's billet chra on a 3586. That went on a GTR

 

[LandSpeed-DSM]

Yea, that's with some regular old street tires on 17s. I'm sure I would have done better the next pass as I upped the boost from 32-33 to 34-35psi but broke the rear axle on launch.




I understand the wrinkle gives more traction and a spring effect, but I always figured more traction means more broken parts.

Most importantly, like a carbon driveshaft.. the sidewall wrinkling takes some off the shock load off the harder, stiffer components like axles.

 

[bradselph]

Most importantly, like a carbon driveshaft.. the sidewall wrinkling takes some off the shock load off the harder, stiffer components like axles.

well i guess you guys made me decide on some slicks for next year.

 

[Bud92gsx]

So then what you want in a slick is a softer sidewall to minimize drivetrain shock.

Rather than (just for refference) a run flat tire.That was just for refference so please no comments like "well why the hell would you use a runflat to begin with"

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Ive got hoosier QTP 26x9.5 DOT to run, but I'm not running them without the magnus t case cover on first .

ALSO a shep trans stage 3 with evo 3 1st and input shaft. Brand new 4 spyder gears and a new intermediate shaft, hD some fun a while back and blew my stock trans rolling into 3rd.

 

[Seamus]

I've had the opposite experience with slicks. I don't wouldn't think awd would change anything, and never used any kind of race tire on a dsm. But I had a car that I never broke any driveline parts on until I switched to a 20x8 slick on a 13 inch wheel. I started breaking ring gears after switching. This was a real slick with lots of loading up of the sidewall, not a dot type slick or r compounds.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Okay well i atempted to weld but being my first time on cast aluminum, i ruined the new filler neck (i suspected i would) okay so here is the next question. We know in using this for the return

But if i decided i wanted to temporairly tee into that fiav line. It would be the one that is about here on the t stat housing, and would return into the 90* nipple at the end. Correct?

On a good note, all my timing goodies came, and stuff to slap the cams in i think i got everything? (Not new water pump since it's 13k miles old.

New 1g tensioner
Tensioner pulley
Idler pully
2 solid lifters for degreeing cams
New topline 3g to replace my current ticking 3g's
Hks kevlar timing belt
Jay racing timing tool
Cam gear holding tool.
CAS o ring (the one that always leaks)
And new cam seals.

 

[lasthope05]

Sooo anyway what do you guys think of the jmf drag manifold for a 35r

Didnt want to clutter up the other thread, but in your situation depending upon what type of head you have would help narrow down your choice in intake manifolds. The two main contenders are the 1g/magnus V3 cast(short runner/smaller plenum) or 2g/curt brown sped JMF drag(longer runner/larger plenum.)

When it came down to it I went with the Magnus because I like the design and the point that the manifold is a cast piece. In the research I've done, low end lost was unnoticeable and mid and top end flow was dramatically increased. Additionally, with my goals, the 1g ports w/ Magnus cast seemed the better choice.

Now thats not to say I dont think the CB JMF drag would hinder me in anyway but I already have a 42cc 4gcn head I am using to help bump static compression. In fact, after I run my 3794 for a bit I plan to switch to a g4cr/4g61 head and CB jmf drag to compare the two. I think DrewJ is also doing the same comparison.

With your particular setup and goals I think the longer runner higher velocity 2g head w/ CB spec JMF drag would work really well with a 35r setups for the streets as you are concerned with better street manners.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Well itll be on the track a little more than the street.

I use a 2g head but i habe a spare 1g head that i planned to use for manifold fab only really.

I still want killer top end. But the CB drag seems like a good choice for the 2g head that i already do have

Well the DG koni coilovers are complete!

Now i just need to know the torque soec for the top nut, and press out this china spherical bearing in one of the top hats for an aurora.

And I'll finally have a smooth ride. I plan on getting an alignment, but is it best i do this without the slicks? Or with the slicks? Or does it not matter?

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Practiced some welding for manifold fab. Looks decent. The penetration could have been better but i didn't purge due to practice.

And a few more (new pipe 360* pix)

Annnnd some more playing with foot pulse.

 

[BurrowZ]

You know what would help your ET? Ditching that third pedal.



You've got your work cut out for your it looks like. Hopefully you have somewhere warm to work on that thing.

 

[boost97gst]

^^^^
+100000000 hehehehehe

Im no welder but those look pretty good. If thats "practice" im sure the real welds will be amazing. I want a TIG now *reaches for credit card*

 

[Archer Fabrications]

not going auto ever .

They are practice cause i haven't really welded since august when i graduated school.

The welds could be more uniform but the colours sure as hell are there.

I have a cold ass non insolated garage that i had been doing everything in until tonight when i brought the tig down to the basement so i could practice. Looking for a job in tig welding.

As for the DSM well thats the main reason i have all these parts that arent installed. It's 28* and has gotten down to the teens. No way in hell am i motivated to be banging up my hands in cold like that . At least not until i get a real good heater and insulate the crap out of the garage.

I plan to install these shocks with in the next week or two. (I hope) this will be my first time removing/installing suspension. If anyone has tips for removal or ease of installation of the control arms etc.. I'm wide open.

 

[BurrowZ]

It's not too hard. Get yourself a nice pry bar and hopefully you have an impact. I can't remember which side but the sway bar end link is in the way of getting to the bottom strut bolts on the front. If you don't have an impact to use on it you can try vice grips on the rear end and ratchet on the other. You might not even need vice grips, there might be slots for a wrench but I'm not 100%.

Rears are absolute cake.

I don't think you have to remove the lower control arms to do it but they come out easy too. Not the worst thing ever and even easier if you don't suffer from rust and have access to WD40/PB Blaster and an impact.



Just grab some brews to keep you warm and you'll be fine. You don't need a heater just some chest hair.

 

[Fullthrottle7]

Man I hear you on the cold days and lack of motivation dude its been freezing back around WA again supposed to snow this week a few times and the last place I can get myself to be is dropping my engine/trans thats hanging on the hoist . As far as the suspension goes, I'm jealous those DG Konis/GC look awesome I was thinking you had been running them for a while for some reason.

Anyways, the rears truly are a cakewalk I don't even pull my rotor/calipers anymore just the wheel but it'll be easier on a first time to get everything on the hub out of the way to reach behind and get the 17mm bolt that goes through the lower eyes. Take off the strut covers if they're still there but I think I saw all that stripped on pg1 . Two 14mm nuts at the top of each strut, then pull down and in from the bottom and the rears are out!

For the fronts, you are gonna want to get both control arms disconnected so the hub can swing out and backwards a bit, letting the axle slide out temporarily and giving plenty of room to let the struts come down. They both take 17mm sockets and shouldn't give you problems, I'd for sure pull the rotor and caliper this time though for ease of access. The biggest pain I've had in the past is the sway bar end links from retarded previous owners stripping them or frozen axle nuts/cotter pins. Use a 14mm socket with a 14mm open end wrench to hold the ball joint in place and you're set for the links. Three last 14mm nuts on top of each front strut and all 4 are out!

Good luck man and enjoy the new soft ride! I'll take your old AGXs two of mine have broken adjusters !

 

[Archer Fabrications]

I plan to get a 60 gallon 11.5cfm dewalt compressor and air tools so before i tackel installing things on the dsm i wanted to habe air tools. Up until now i have been doing everything with sockets, torque wrenches and gear wrenches. I'd love a lift installed but my garage is exactally 11ft wide and so are the lifts .

I'll sneak this in there.

Tyler thanks for your tips, you dont want these AGX
Two are also broke. At the adjuster, and all 4 shocks are blown. Hahah


Heres what I'm dealing with this week for motivation

Thats the daily (tow to track truck) under about a foot of snow from a few days ago.

Just ordered an STM half rad with FAL fan pretty stoked. This will help out SO MUCH for creating room for the bumper exit exhaust.

 

[Fullthrottle7]

Damn thats some decent accumulation! We finally got the snow they've been forcasting but its wet and will melt by lunch I'm sure. Good thing I have all my stuff in the shack of a garage we have at this rental house, gonna push the chassis just far enough in to be under cover and drop the motor this week.

Meant to ask you before since I will be getting a DG Koni setup as well if Boeing comes back to us with the 777x contract next month like they absolutely should. What exactly is the snap ring mod you have to get done to the shocks to work with the GC? Is it no big deal that I could bring to work and use basic tools or is it a fairly specific cut/process that needs a good machinist and correct cutter?

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Use a lathe. It's easy any machinest should do it. Blue prints are on far north racings website.

It's just creating a new snap ring few inches lower than the current ones.

Heres some more welding pix

Then i tripped the breaker and gas shut off so it got all burnt

 

[YoYo_4G63]

Awesome welds! good luck with all

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Also welded a plug that has a npt port in it to delete the holset oil feed in prep for the 3586 head feed.

Just got the china bearing pressed out of the top hat so DG konis are officially ready to install!

Need air tools now

About to start the dsm for the first time this winter, has dead battery. Just keepin things lubed.
Update!

Okay the first start up in 3 months went good. Hellz yah. Now i know everything works before i start tearing into the head and replacing turbo etc. i hope my -12 drain fits the 3586 or elsr I'll be having to pull the oil pan to install a new one with the fp blue drain.

I spelled my name wrong in the title, damn iphone...
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S8kW1s7BESM[/ame]

 

[dsmcrzy]

I'd love a lift installed but my garage is exactally 11ft wide and so are the lifts .

Urban this is a neat alternative. Nice build btw!

Ranger QuickJack BL-3500 3,000 lbs Capacity

 

[Archer Fabrications]

I need a 2 post so i can fab exhaust and stiff get under the car drop drive shaft and heat shields and such, that type of lift wouldnt work. I like the 2 post bendpac

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Okay i changed my mind back to the 3794 And since honestly there isnt alot of info on the turbo for hardly anyone other than shops. I'll be the one of the ones to post back. I had been debating between the 3586 and the 3794 for a while and i think that choosing this on my 2.0 will yield possible 30psi by 5500 40psi by 5800 44psi by around 6300rpm and 44 psi is where AWD motorsports hit their 900hp (from my research) so i won't be heading into 40psi land until i find out what sort of things will break on the way up. Who knows, some people running this turbo are making 779hp on 29psi.

The 3794 will blow colder air making more power at lower psi than the 3586 which is also appealing dispite the lag. Which i guess I'm not really concerned about if i do drive on the street, because hitting 30psi will probably get my car crushed driving on the street.

My car isnt insured anymore, side exit exhaust and slicks. Car will be trailered to the track. But I'd love some street tuning in there so I'll also report back on that just very sketchy. It already was with the holset.

This turbo will also be killer on a TS t4 eventually if i decide to build one.

She becomes a street car no more. Now she is to be a weekend warrior/drag beast

The combo i plan on
2.0 9:1
STM koyo half rad (purchased)
Curt brown spec jmf drag (contemplating)
BC276/276 (awaiting install)
Bc dual springs (awaiting install)
(8500-9000 rev limit is what i decided on)
South bend SSX TZ/FE single disk and a new ACT street lite (contemplating)
Hks kevlar(awaiting install)
DG koni (awaitinf install)

Then we will see how the drive train holds up. I dont expect to be banging gears too hard since I'm only on a shep stage 3. And even dog boxes break so I'll do my best to shift in the sweet spots.

I see lots of antilag at the line, a 6k 2 step, and lighting up like the 4th of july.

I suppose my only concern is the amount of bearing wear/rebuilds that go into having a 8-900hp car (planning for future) and that was another reason i was looking at the 3586. But i have a 2002 dodge ram as my daily. So I'll just take things as they come at me, and down time isnt an issue unless it's mid season, which would suck.