2G dsm running hot

[2gmummy]

A while back my thermostat went bad and the coolant in my overflow was boiling, the only smoke was some of the coolant getting on a hot pipe.
So i change the thermostat out and everything was fine when i noticed the temp gauge was at the 3/4 mark..i was just driving normally. I checked the thermo again, added coolant, fans come on, got a new cap, new headgasket, and new after market radiator.....i think it maybe the waterpump but idk how to check that also what is the running temp range my car should be?

I know there's other forums like this but none of them seem to solve my problem

Im pretty stumped and any help is really appreciated!

 

[haswesley]

A hot upper radiator hose combined with a cold bottom hose indicates a thermostat problem. Replace it.

 

[dsmkidd20]

oh yeah another thing is my fans are not coming on. i took the relay out and jumped the relay with a wire and now they are on all the time. does this mean the relay was bad or something else?

 

[90moneypit]

oh yeah another thing is my fans are not coming on. i took the relay out and jumped the relay with a wire and now they are on all the time. does this mean the relay was bad or something else?

If the coolant in the radiator isn't hot (t-stat not opening), how can the sensor know to kick on? Replace the thermostat with an original Mitsubishi t-stat, burp the air out of the system, pull the jumper off the relay and see if the fans kick on after the car has been idling for 15 minutes or so. Obviously if the car is overheating after you've burped ALL the air off, don't run it the full 15 minutes. Like someone else posted above, hot top hose, cold bottom hose, t-stat not opening.

 

[dsmkidd20]

umm i went back to autozone and got a different t-stat and this one seems to be flowing but the fans were still not coming on. im gonna burp the system and see where that gets me.

 

[90moneypit]

You might get farther running it w/o the autozone t-stat... I personally don't trust Autozone to not 'screw' up bottled water, much less a part for my car. I trust NAPA for having the best made/tested parts available next to Factory original. That being said, I get Mitsubishi thermostats... Such a cheap part to hold your engine hostage but then again, so's your oil filter. Come to think of it, I haven't even heard of a FRAM oil filter killing an engine while I've had bad t-stats overheat my car in traffic where I could NOT get over to either side of the road.

That Autozone may work, but I wouldn't bet MY engine on it. Same for gaskets.

 

[dsmkidd20]

ok so returned that t stat and go one from napa i let the car ru for 10mins and it opened. awsome. so then i let it run alittle longer and the fans come on. even better but then i driving down the road and the damn temp gauge is still going up and down, what the shit. so then i put a meat thermometer(reads between -58 and 300) on to the head, right in front on the side alttle bit and it starts to go up t0 200, 205, 210 then at 212 the fans kicked on and it went back down to 200 so the i i look at the gauge and its still saying 3/4 the way to hot. what wrong with this damn car?

 

[gofer]

If its staying below 210* and the coolant temp gauge is still at 3/4 of the way indicating that its overheating then its your (ECTGS) engine coolant temp. gauge sensor, its located in the t-stat housing right next to the coolant temp sensor.

The P/N for the gauge sensor is MD091056.

 

[90moneypit]

NAPA t-stat... whatever, it's your car. Since you're slowly eliminating coolant issues (btw, what does a logger say your temp is?), have you checked your timing? Your car may also be running lean. Both things can cause your car to run hotter than normal. Otherwise, I suggest you get a real power flush through your coolant system and see if any rust is forming inside the passages (JDM engines FTL!!!) that needs to be completely removed.

 

[dsmkidd20]

If its staying below 210* and the coolant temp gauge is still at 3/4 of the way indicating that its overheating then its your (ECTGS) engine coolant temp. gauge sensor, its located in the t-stat housing right next to the coolant temp sensor.

The P/N for the gauge sensor is MD091056.

so you are saying change out the temp sending uint? i was thinking about doing that. i was also thinking about just buying a aftermarket temp gauge and wiring that in.

NAPA t-stat... whatever, it's your car. Since you're slowly eliminating coolant issues (btw, what does a logger say your temp is?), have you checked your timing? Your car may also be running lean. Both things can cause your car to run hotter than normal. Otherwise, I suggest you get a real power flush through your coolant system and see if any rust is forming inside the passages (JDM engines FTL!!!) that needs to be completely removed.

are you saying not to use a t-stat from nappa? logger? i dont have one. the timing is good. i think my car might be running lean, i can smell the exhaust like alot when the car is idling. how do i get it to run normal and not lean?

 

[DSM-Hottie]

Hate to bring this thing back from the dead guys but I now have a problem.
I just purchased Evo Scan, Been logging my car to and from work.
Last summer I had an "overheating issue". New Mishimoto radiator, new thermo, new coolant temp sensors, Water Wetter. With the new sensors the "heating" issues went away.
Well now that I have been logging my car I have noticed that my coolant temps stay around 212 and going all the way to 230 but my gauge doesn't move, it shows normal (Sits on the 1st Squiggle).
I just recently got a FMIC, currently only have one fan atm. I have a mishimoto Slim sitting in the car, not sure how or where to wire it in.
Any suggestions? The water pump is about a yr old. No coolant/Oil mixing action going on, so it's not a HG.

 

[DSM1G90]

Is your logger calibrated correctly to match your system? Sometimes, loggers don't know anything too well and they're a bad crutch to depend on.

You could take the temp sending unit out and place it in a pan of boiling water( since we know water boils at 212* )while still connected to the system. See where both the gauge and logger are telling you with this simple test.

Plus, if the licence plate is close to the air imput area, that plate can act like a big air dam pushing air away from the radiator and can cause temps to rise.

Good Luck - DSM