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AEM EMS Tuning

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kayosfrawg

Proven Member
47
1
Feb 8, 2013
Gainesville, Florida
I've got first gen EMS that came with my car when I got it. She currently drives with a SAFC but has lots of problems under boost and RPMS above 4-5000. I am very interested in learning to tune, I've found some guides online and been reading for a couple months, but I still haven't found something that gives me a definite order I should be working through the settings in. I don't want to tune something then find out I have to go back through and redo it because I changed something else.

My car is setup will be as follows, if I'm putting in the EMS I'm switching to speed density:
Denso 660cc injectors
5 bar map sensor
walboroh 255 lph pump
GM AIT sensor
16g turbo
FMIC
Dejon intake (MAF delete)
AEM Wideband UEGO

I think thats all the mods relevant to the switchover. Let me know if there is more info needed.

Based on everything I have read this is my current plan:
1. I have a base map that is speed density.
-I've changed the injector size to 660
-Changed the MAP sensor from 3.5 to 5 bar
2. Load that to the EMS
3. Check ignition sync
4. Verify the cam and crank sensors are in sync
5. Verify timing low and high RPM, got a nice digital timing light on the way to me as I type this.
6. If there were any startup problems, eg having to use the accelerator to get it running, troubleshoot them now.
7. Get the idle squared away.

I'm solid I think up until #7, after that I have heard to use automapping to get the maps in the ballpark before a fine tuning. I've also heard automapping is not so good and to work on boost compensation tuning.

I guess the point of this long post is what should I be looking into for the next step? and have I missed anything in the steps I have gleaned from my research thus far?

On a side note is there anyone in/near gainesville, florida who would be willing to help me learn to tune?
 
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I have always wondered the benfits of ems vs link v3 at what point is it worth it to upgrade? I'm assuming you might of thought the same at one point.
 
I actually haven't considered my tuning solution in a while, my mind was kind of made up for me as the EMS came with the car when I got her. I've never even looked at link v3, I only vaguely recall browsing through link v2 stuff before I had to get rid of my first DSM.
 
Having have tuned both I must say its not hard if you have been tuning before. However if you are new to tuning it could be tricky. What I would suggest is to use the start up calibration include with the AEM Pro software. That should solve most of your worries with cranking and stuff. Then just set your sensors, timing settings. Then from there you could just crank and start tuning. If you use auto mapping remember to set its target tables first.

Here is a good guide on the AEM EMS. It's not 4G63 specific but a lot of the things in there can be helpful in general.

Also explains how to work with auto mapping.

http://www.ka-t.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=55094&highlight=
 
Maybe I didn't use auto mapping right but it really didn't help me out at all. After AEM fig out what fuel value i wanted and had it entered, my car hated it and the a/f ratio was always going from rich to lean. Ive also heard from other people that the auto mapping feature on the ems especially on V1 is way outdated and doesn't always work like it's designed too.

PS. I have about a dozen sites explaining a few how to's about tuning with the AEM so let me know if you want them
 
Thanks for the link Chicken Patty. Prockish I am always up for more information, I'd love the site list :)
 
Yeah I'm not too fond of auto mapping myself. However I have used it and it helps a tad. But honestly, most of the time if not all the time (recently) I end up just doing it myself. Been tuning a while and it's just easy to me LOL. So it doesn't take me long to dial a car in.
 
In that link I see under the automapping that it mentions you don't wan't 14.7 PSI across the board...I thought that was perfectly stoich and you would want that all the time. What reasons would you want it richer or leaner? I realize that is probably some basic stuff, could you recommend some good reading on that? I have a few books but I guess I haven't gotten to that part in them yet.
 
In that link I see under the automapping that it mentions you don't wan't 14.7 PSI across the board...I thought that was perfectly stoich and you would want that all the time. What reasons would you want it richer or leaner? I realize that is probably some basic stuff, could you recommend some good reading on that? I have a few books but I guess I haven't gotten to that part in them yet.

Well you can shoot for a little leaner like 15.2 AFR. That'll get you a bit better fuel economy and still okay. Perfect way to do it is to monitor EGT'S and you can lean out till things get warm then just richen it up a tad.
 
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