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| Newbie Forum: Beginner/newbie/general DSM modification questions. First mods, how to run 10's when you haven't run 12's yet, any tech question that doesn't fit in another tech forum. Probationary Members must limit their tech posts to this forum and sub-forums. |
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04-30-2010, 04:46 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Clearfield, Pennsylvania
Registered: Nov 2009
Reputation:
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I made a serious Uh-oh (Ruined axle nut threads)
Alright, so I tried to beat out the axle from the wheel bearing with a hammer, AFTER completely removing the axle nut. Yeah well now I ####ed up the end of the axle (threads) and the nut won't screw back on..... And the axle is still in the wheel bearing.
Can I re-thread the end of the axle? or am I screwed and need to replace it altogether?
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04-30-2010, 04:47 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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DSM Wiseman

From: Mt. Pleasant, Michigan
Registered: Jan 2008
Reputation:
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You're screwed.
You're going to need a new axle and a new hub and wheel bearing.
Front or back axle.
____________________________
Wes - '97 Talon Tsi AWD
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04-30-2010, 08:11 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Southern, California
Registered: Dec 2009
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or you can try tapering the end with a grinder (not a hand held one) i used to do that at a metal shop I worked at. I think re-threading is the way to go though...
here's a little pic of what I'm talking about; axle is vertical
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04-30-2010, 08:16 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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Moderator

From: Downingtown, Pennsylvania
Registered: Oct 2006
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If you mushroomed the end, it's going to be hard/impossible to retap.
Next time you know to leave the axle nut on sticking a bit past the end of the axle so if you ruin it, it's an easy and cheap replacement.
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04-30-2010, 08:18 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Scott AFB, Illinois
Registered: Jan 2009
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+1 on the grinding the end of the threads. I have done that as well and i used a hand held grinder. Just taper the end of the threads and carefully put the nut back on and it will be fine.
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04-30-2010, 08:51 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Clearfield, Pennsylvania
Registered: Nov 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowborder714
If you mushroomed the end, it's going to be hard/impossible to retap.
Next time you know to leave the axle nut on sticking a bit past the end of the axle so if you ruin it, it's an easy and cheap replacement.
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Mushroomed indeed.. front passenger side... haven't tried to retap or anything yet, just got a little frustrated at the exact moment I had a hammer in my hand. Worst part is the axle still didn't budge.
I guess I cant #### it up anymore than it already is so it wont hurt to grind the end down and see what I can do I guess? I'll take pics tomorrow, The threads are pretty ####ed because of the cotter pin holes, they kinda caved in causing the threads to wave.
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05-01-2010, 10:56 AM
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#9 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Clearfield, Pennsylvania
Registered: Nov 2009
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welded with rust.. it took me 3 days of pb blaster soaking, and 2 broken breaker bars, just to get the nut off!
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05-01-2010, 12:07 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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DSMtuners Supporting Vendor

From: Saint Marys/Man, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 2008
Reputation:
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I've had this happen when my car was taken to a local shop and they used a solid hammer to hit the axle! I ended up grinding it down like said above and got the nut threaded back on for the time being. They bought me a new axle to install though but I needed the car that day.
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05-01-2010, 10:12 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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Probationary Member

From: Modena, New York
Registered: Jun 2009
Reputation:
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well since u really F'ed it up put some serous heat to it to get it out then replace the axle. Make sure u get it as red as u can without melting it and hammer the hell out of it. If it's messed up that bad go to town on it!!
____________________________
Sucio
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05-01-2010, 10:28 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Brunswick, Ohio
Registered: Jan 2009
Reputation:
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Grind that bitch down. Throw it back on there.
____________________________
Mitch
1991 Eagle Talon Tsi AWD - Sold
1998 Chevy k2500
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05-01-2010, 11:56 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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Probationary Member

From: San Francisco, California
Registered: Dec 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mindset
Grind that bitch down. Throw it back on there.
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+1, happened to me too. Just use a file or grinder and just cone off the end the just run the bolt back on and you should be fine.
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05-02-2010, 09:31 AM
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#14 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Clearfield, Pennsylvania
Registered: Nov 2009
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Alright, well I ruined both my axle nuts, and re-####ed my axle threads. Here's how;
So after about a good hour of straightening out the threads by hand with a small hack saw, hammer, and chisel.. I finally got the nut to go back on right... well the axle is still rusted into the hub so i had to try to beat it out again, this time with the nut halfway threaded on. Well I beat the piss out of it with a hammer and stripped the inside of the nut. And re-####ed up the threads on the axle...... OH FOR THE LOVE OF GOD.
Is there any possible way to get this axle out or do I have to replace the whole car. New axle price around $50-$70 so I'm not too worked up, but this is really delaying my tranny swap.
Last edited by tweek814; 05-02-2010 at 10:56 AM.
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05-02-2010, 09:57 AM
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#15 (permalink)
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DSMtuners Supporting Vendor

From: Saint Marys/Man, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 2008
Reputation:
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Since it's already screwed get yourself an air chisel and hammer that thing out after heating it up. You could take off the knuckle and throw it in a press and get it out too.
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05-02-2010, 10:17 AM
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#16 (permalink)
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Proven Member

Car: 2006 Nissan Sentra SE
From: Lakeland, Florida
Registered: Aug 2008
Reputation: 
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Brand New GSP axles from advance are $70 each.. Just buy new ones, plus its a lifetime warranty.
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05-02-2010, 11:24 AM
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#17 (permalink)
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Probationary Member

From: Ft. Mitchell, Kentucky
Registered: Jul 2009
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Cut the axle, remove the whole knuckle, get the axle pressed out, replace axle/wheel bearing.
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05-02-2010, 04:23 PM
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#18 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Clearfield, Pennsylvania
Registered: Nov 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by latintuch112
well since u really F'ed it up put some serous heat to it to get it out then replace the axle. Make sure u get it as red as u can without melting it and hammer the hell out of it. If it's messed up that bad go to town on it!!
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I dont have torches but I beat the living #### out of it with a hammer, didn't budge, and now there is definitely no saving the axle lol. I went to advanced an got the heaviest pulley puller they had and put it on the hub and tried to push the axle out. Broke one of my socket wrenches tightening it down. Then got out the tire iron because I broke my breaker bar the other day on the axle nut. So I tightened down the puller with my tire iron and a 4ft cheater pipe slipped over it, untill the ####ING PULLER SNAPPED INTO A MILLION PEICES!!!
Im just taking the whole hub/bearing/axle assembly out as one and replacing it unless I can get it separated after removal. But I'm gonna need a new axle for sure, and a few new sets of tools.
edit: I have a 96 avenger v6 parts car, so Im 99% sure the axle wont fit, but Im pretty sure the wheel bearing and hubs are interchangeable?
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05-02-2010, 04:52 PM
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#20 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Germansville, Pennsylvania
Registered: Mar 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowborder714
If you mushroomed the end, it's going to be hard/impossible to retap.
Next time you know to leave the axle nut on sticking a bit past the end of the axle so if you ruin it, it's an easy and cheap replacement.
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I just did the same thing on my drivers side CV shaft its a good thing it already needed to be replaced and I had a dremel with cut off wheels to get it out.
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05-02-2010, 05:00 PM
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#21 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Clearfield, Pennsylvania
Registered: Nov 2009
Reputation:
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^Yeah this is funny because now I have to replace my passenger side hub and bearing... when my drivers side has needed to be replaced since I bought the car.
Quote:
Originally Posted by joyfil2001
Just order a new axle, hub, and knuckle from Mitsubishi Graveyard. That's what I did.
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DSMGraveyard wants $149 for a USED axle. I didn't even look at wheel bearings. Found used knuckle full assembly's w/hub on ebay for $40-$50.
Last edited by tweek814; 05-02-2010 at 05:06 PM.
Reason: edit
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05-02-2010, 05:13 PM
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#22 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Austin, Texas
Registered: Apr 2005
Reputation:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tweek814
^Yeah this is funny because now I have to replace my passenger side hub and bearing... when my drivers side has needed to be replaced since I bought the car.
DSMGraveyard wants $149 for a USED axle. I didn't even look at wheel bearings. Found used knuckle full assembly's w/hub on ebay for $40-$50.
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Well he did say Mitsubishi Graveyard.
____________________________
-John
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05-02-2010, 06:35 PM
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#23 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: walker, Michigan
Registered: Aug 2008
Reputation: 
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dsm graveyard and mitsu graveyard are completely different.
They will be cheaper at mistu graveyard
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05-02-2010, 07:11 PM
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#24 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Clearfield, Pennsylvania
Registered: Nov 2009
Reputation:
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Do you have to call mitsu graveyard? I've never dealt with these guys and I couldn't find the part online.
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05-02-2010, 07:15 PM
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#25 (permalink)
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DSMtuners Supporting Vendor

From: Saint Marys/Man, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 2008
Reputation:
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I believe I have everything you need but I won't be home until next Monday to check for sure. I'm only a little over an hour from you and you can have them for pretty cheap. I do not have an axle for you though. Let me know.
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05-02-2010, 07:48 PM
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#26 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Toms River, New Jersey
Registered: Dec 2007
Reputation:
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Call Gary at Mitsu graveyard. They have everything even though its not online. He is very reasonable and you can negotiate with him.
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05-02-2010, 08:01 PM
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#27 (permalink)
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Probationary Member

From: Franklin Sq, New York
Registered: Sep 2005
Reputation:
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Just a helpful hint to prevent this from happening again. Put white grease in the wheel bearing when installing axles.
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05-03-2010, 05:24 AM
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#28 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Germansville, Pennsylvania
Registered: Mar 2009
Reputation:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tweek814
^Yeah this is funny because now I have to replace my passenger side hub and bearing... when my drivers side has needed to be replaced since I bought the car.
DSMGraveyard wants $149 for a USED axle. I didn't even look at wheel bearings. Found used knuckle full assembly's w/hub on ebay for $40-$50.
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I bought a brand new axle from Zone for $116 without the core, with the core it was $60, its not OEM but it has a limited lifetime warranty.
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05-03-2010, 06:43 AM
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#29 (permalink)
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Probationary Member

From: Modena, New York
Registered: Jun 2009
Reputation:
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hey tweek814 u could get a small torch at advance...I kno for a fact that they sell them, I use to work for them, and buy the one in the box that comes with the bottle and the torch tip and buy the MAG gas(yellow bottle). the MAG is hotter then the propane that comes in the set. it all shouldn't come out to be more then 20-23 bucks with tax...use the MAG gas to heat it up. It will take a while for it to get hot but it will get it hot. If the store near you doesn't have it let me know and i'll get u the part numbers from the store near me for them to get u what you need.
____________________________
Sucio
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05-03-2010, 06:56 AM
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#30 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Wichita Falls, Texas
Registered: Oct 2005
Reputation:
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+1 Just replace that thing, they are'nt expensive and you don't have to rig it to work.
____________________________
Aaron G. Automagic - Precision BB 5858 - NX
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