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Newbie Forum: Beginner/newbie/general DSM modification questions. First mods, how to run 10's when you haven't run 12's yet, any tech question that doesn't fit in another tech forum. Probationary Members must limit their tech posts to this forum and sub-forums.

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Old 06-09-2009, 09:32 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #1 (permalink)
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95GreenGSX's Avatar
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Car dies when clutch pushed in.???


Ok so as the title says my car dies when you are driving and you push the clutch in.
Say your driving around 2500rpm and you push the clutch in to go into neutral, lights dim, rpm gets low, and the car will die.
Ive only done 4 things to the car since this has been happening.
1. e85
2. Injectors (1450s)
3. Fuel Filter (FuelLab 818)
4. Battery relocation***

I think it has something to do with this, maybe a ground issue? I have the power going up front fine, but im grounded to the fire wall up front and a bolt in the truck for the battery. Could this be why I keep dying out?
I just finished the install on the stuff today and I have not tuned it yet, but I am going to this week. I would like to see if the battery location is the problem before I start tuning.

Any help is appreciated, thanks.


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Old 06-09-2009, 11:34 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #2 (permalink)
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SmalltownDSMer's Avatar
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Check for boost leaks. Mine did the same thing and I ended up having two leaks. Also, do you have cams, and what tuning system??
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Old 06-09-2009, 11:43 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #3 (permalink)
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darkiller_666's Avatar
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Sounds like a failing TOB
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Old 06-10-2009, 12:13 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #4 (permalink)
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Afroclipse's Avatar
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Get a mulitimeter and go to town.

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Old 06-10-2009, 01:15 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #5 (permalink)
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chaggard27's Avatar
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Check your clutch fluid and see if it is low. I had a similar thing happen and it was because fluid was low and so the clutch didn't fully disengage and it would kill the engine. Sounds like time for a new clutch assembly. If it is get a flywheel too since it is most likely got a lot of hotspots.
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Old 06-10-2009, 06:07 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #6 (permalink)
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95GreenGSX's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SmalltownDSMer View Post
Check for boost leaks. Mine did the same thing and I ended up having two leaks. Also, do you have cams, and what tuning system??
I'll try checking for any boost leaks. Also, I don't have any cams and I'm tuning with link. But again, it has no tune on it currently. I guess it could have something to do with that too.

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Old 06-10-2009, 07:25 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #7 (permalink)
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90 Talon AWD's Avatar
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Check base timing that fixed my problem.

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Old 06-10-2009, 09:57 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #8 (permalink)
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95redturboawd's Avatar
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Are you sure that bolt in the trunk is a good ground?

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Old 06-10-2009, 10:08 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95GreenGSX View Post
I'll try checking for any boost leaks. Also, I don't have any cams and I'm tuning with link. But again, it has no tune on it currently. I guess it could have something to do with that too.
Once I got my leaks fixed it would not die when the clutch was pushed in, but would come close to it. I later ordered Link and after a good tune anytime I push the clutch in the clutch in the RPM's drop and hold steady at 650-750.
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Old 06-10-2009, 10:09 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #10 (permalink)
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SrKegler's Avatar
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What size wiring did you use for the battery positive cable? Too small a guage and it may not be providing the power you need. I can't remember the voltage drop per foot of cable.

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Old 06-10-2009, 12:31 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #11 (permalink)
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fox4's Avatar
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+1 on the TOB as stated in the post 3. When the TOB goes the clutch never dissengages all the way and so the car starts to die.
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Old 06-10-2009, 02:02 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #12 (permalink)
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Kind of a stretch but if you ran your new wires under the clutch you could be grounding out your battery every time you push in the clutch. Thus causing it to die.
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Old 06-10-2009, 02:28 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #13 (permalink)
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Put the car in neutral, get the rpms up to 2000 and then apply the clutch. Do the rpms go down once the clutch is applied? If so it's crank walk, sorry.

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Old 06-10-2009, 04:37 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboHawkTSI View Post
Put the car in neutral, get the rpms up to 2000 and then apply the clutch. Do the rpms go down once the clutch is applied? If so it's crank walk, sorry.
Uhhhhhh...

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Old 06-10-2009, 04:52 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #15 (permalink)
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We had an evo 8 at our shop that did the same thing,only to find out it was crank walk.What happened is when the clutch was pressed in,it pushed the crank forward enough to cause the crank sensor to go out of alignment with the reluctor causing it to stall.I'm not saying that is your problem,just something to check out

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Old 06-10-2009, 04:59 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #16 (permalink)
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Aznspice27's Avatar
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i dont think it could be crankwalk.... have to do your measurements ... i had the same problem it was my TOB
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Old 06-10-2009, 05:21 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #17 (permalink)
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1992 4g63's use a CAS (Cam Angle Sensor) for ignition timing, therefore crankwalk (which should be referred to as 'excessive crankshaft end play') has no influence on the timing signal. When the crankshaft endplay exceeds 0.025" the balance shaft belt can break. The in and out movement of the crankshaft pulley frays the edges of the belt and eventually it breaks. When it does break, it often wraps itself around the timing belt which then breaks, bending some valve stems. 4g63's with over 150thousand miles are prone to all these problems.
I refer to crankwalk as Premature Thrust Bearing Failure.
An engine that stalls out when the clutch is depressed has a clutch problem, not a boost problem. There is no relationship between the two systems, except that when the idle stop signal is generated after letting off the throttle, (which should be done before depressing the clutch pedal, the ECM expects to see vacuum at the boost control solenoid. Also the BOV should vent. So there could be more than one problem in Green95GSX's motor.
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Old 06-10-2009, 05:44 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboHawkTSI View Post
Put the car in neutral, get the rpms up to 2000 and then apply the clutch. Do the rpms go down once the clutch is applied? If so it's crank walk, sorry.
Please go find another forum.
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Old 06-11-2009, 10:51 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEFFREYCASTGSX View Post
Please go find another forum.
I would just like to re-state what I said before so no one misunderstands me. Now my statement might not be for this gentlemen here, from later threads it sounds like this might not be his issue but my thought before was from my personal experience. Three of eight engines (4G63) that I have built, had crank-walk. One common symptom I noticed was that the engine would die after pressing the clutch in at idle. Personally I like to thoroughly diagnose and record symptoms that I come across on each build so the problems don't happen again. So one thing I noticed on each of these crank-walked engines was that when I ran the engine in neutral up to 2000 RPM's and then pressed the clutch in, the engine would drop anywhere from 200-500 rpms without any adjustment of the throttle position. This is from experience with 4G63 engines. I joined this site to help people, not cause trouble or stir up drama.

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Old 06-11-2009, 12:10 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #20 (permalink)
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SmalltownDSMer's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95GreenGSX View Post
I'll try checking for any boost leaks. Also, I don't have any cams and I'm tuning with link. But again, it has no tune on it currently. I guess it could have something to do with that too.
While these peeps could be right, I would definately try to get a tune on it. My car would almost die when clutch was engaged but only if I held it in. I became accustomed to rev matching while down shifting (pulling up to an intersection etc.) or pushing the clutch, shifting to neutral, releasing the clutch and coasting up.

Once I had my baby dynoed with a good tune, never came across the problem again Just my .02

Last edited by SmalltownDSMer; 06-11-2009 at 12:11 PM. Reason: Punctuation...
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