Car dies when clutch pushed in.???

Posted by 95GreenGSX, Jun 9, 2009
Newbie Forum - Beginner DSM modification questions and discussions. Common, repetitive, and general discussions will get dumped here from other tech forums. Unless you're a Probationary member you shouldn't post threads here.

  1. 95GreenGSX

    95GreenGSX Proven Member

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2006
    Posts:
    330
    Likes Received:
    0
    Chicago, Illinois
    Ok so as the title says my car dies when you are driving and you push the clutch in.
    Say your driving around 2500rpm and you push the clutch in to go into neutral, lights dim, rpm gets low, and the car will die.
    Ive only done 4 things to the car since this has been happening.
    1. e85
    2. Injectors (1450s)
    3. Fuel Filter (FuelLab 818)
    4. Battery relocation***

    I think it has something to do with this, maybe a ground issue? I have the power going up front fine, but im grounded to the fire wall up front and a bolt in the truck for the battery. Could this be why I keep dying out?
    I just finished the install on the stuff today and I have not tuned it yet, but I am going to this week. I would like to see if the battery location is the problem before I start tuning.

    Any help is appreciated, thanks.
    #1
  2. SmalltownDSMer

    SmalltownDSMer Proven Member

    DSM Profiles:
    1
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2008
    Posts:
    283
    Likes Received:
    0
    Doesn't matter, Texas
    Check for boost leaks. Mine did the same thing and I ended up having two leaks. Also, do you have cams, and what tuning system??
    #2
  3. darkiller_666

    darkiller_666 Proven Member

    DSM Profiles:
    1
    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2008
    Posts:
    430
    Likes Received:
    0
    Salina, Kansas
    Sounds like a failing TOB
    #3
  4. Afroclipse

    Afroclipse Proven Member

    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2006
    Posts:
    532
    Likes Received:
    1
    Houston, Texas
    Get a mulitimeter and go to town.
    #4
  5. chaggard27

    chaggard27 Proven Member

    DSM Profiles:
    1
    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2009
    Posts:
    149
    Likes Received:
    0
    Reno, Nevada
    Check your clutch fluid and see if it is low. I had a similar thing happen and it was because fluid was low and so the clutch didn't fully disengage and it would kill the engine. Sounds like time for a new clutch assembly. If it is get a flywheel too since it is most likely got a lot of hotspots.
    #5
  6. 95GreenGSX

    95GreenGSX Proven Member

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2006
    Posts:
    330
    Likes Received:
    0
    Chicago, Illinois
    I'll try checking for any boost leaks. Also, I don't have any cams and I'm tuning with link. But again, it has no tune on it currently. I guess it could have something to do with that too.
    #6
  7. 90 Talon AWD

    90 Talon AWD Proven Member

    Joined:
    Aug 27, 2008
    Posts:
    125
    Likes Received:
    0
    jonesville, North_Carolina
    Check base timing that fixed my problem.
    #7
  8. 95redturboawd

    95redturboawd Proven Member

    Joined:
    May 3, 2008
    Posts:
    327
    Likes Received:
    0
    Kalamazoo, Michigan
    Are you sure that bolt in the trunk is a good ground?
    #8
  9. SmalltownDSMer

    SmalltownDSMer Proven Member

    DSM Profiles:
    1
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2008
    Posts:
    283
    Likes Received:
    0
    Doesn't matter, Texas
    Once I got my leaks fixed it would not die when the clutch was pushed in, but would come close to it. I later ordered Link and after a good tune anytime I push the clutch in the clutch in the RPM's drop and hold steady at 650-750.
    #9
  10. SrKegler

    SrKegler Proven Member

    Joined:
    Feb 29, 2004
    Posts:
    791
    Likes Received:
    15
    Daytona Beach, Florida
    What size wiring did you use for the battery positive cable? Too small a guage and it may not be providing the power you need. I can't remember the voltage drop per foot of cable.
    #10
  11. fox4

    fox4 Proven Member

    DSM Profiles:
    1
    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2008
    Posts:
    69
    Likes Received:
    0
    Indianapolis, Indiana
    +1 on the TOB as stated in the post 3. When the TOB goes the clutch never dissengages all the way and so the car starts to die.
    #11
  12. eclipser93

    eclipser93 Proven Member

    DSM Profiles:
    1
    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2004
    Posts:
    19
    Likes Received:
    1
    manchester, Connecticut
    Kind of a stretch but if you ran your new wires under the clutch you could be grounding out your battery every time you push in the clutch. Thus causing it to die.
    #12
  13. TurboHawkTSI

    TurboHawkTSI Probationary Member

    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2009
    Posts:
    13
    Likes Received:
    0
    Houston, Texas
    Put the car in neutral, get the rpms up to 2000 and then apply the clutch. Do the rpms go down once the clutch is applied? If so it's crank walk, sorry.
    #13
  14. 95redturboawd

    95redturboawd Proven Member

    Joined:
    May 3, 2008
    Posts:
    327
    Likes Received:
    0
    Kalamazoo, Michigan
    Uhhhhhh...
    #14
  15. redyute1

    redyute1 Proven Member

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2008
    Posts:
    457
    Likes Received:
    2
    Riverdale, Maryland
    We had an evo 8 at our shop that did the same thing,only to find out it was crank walk.What happened is when the clutch was pressed in,it pushed the crank forward enough to cause the crank sensor to go out of alignment with the reluctor causing it to stall.I'm not saying that is your problem,just something to check out
    #15
  16. Aznspice27

    Aznspice27 Proven Member

    DSM Profiles:
    1
    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2008
    Posts:
    85
    Likes Received:
    0
    Riverdale, New_York
    i dont think it could be crankwalk.... have to do your measurements ... i had the same problem it was my TOB
    #16
  17. TOONAH

    TOONAH Proven Member

    DSM Profiles:
    1
    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2008
    Posts:
    157
    Likes Received:
    1
    Madison, Wisconsin
    1992 4g63's use a CAS (Cam Angle Sensor) for ignition timing, therefore crankwalk (which should be referred to as 'excessive crankshaft end play') has no influence on the timing signal. When the crankshaft endplay exceeds 0.025" the balance shaft belt can break. The in and out movement of the crankshaft pulley frays the edges of the belt and eventually it breaks. When it does break, it often wraps itself around the timing belt which then breaks, bending some valve stems. 4g63's with over 150thousand miles are prone to all these problems.
    I refer to crankwalk as Premature Thrust Bearing Failure.
    An engine that stalls out when the clutch is depressed has a clutch problem, not a boost problem. There is no relationship between the two systems, except that when the idle stop signal is generated after letting off the throttle, (which should be done before depressing the clutch pedal, the ECM expects to see vacuum at the boost control solenoid. Also the BOV should vent. So there could be more than one problem in Green95GSX's motor.
    #17
  18. JEFFREYCASTGSX

    JEFFREYCASTGSX Proven Member

    DSM Profiles:
    1
    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2008
    Posts:
    844
    Likes Received:
    2
    hobbs, New_Mexico
    Please go find another forum. :banghead:
    #18
  19. TurboHawkTSI

    TurboHawkTSI Probationary Member

    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2009
    Posts:
    13
    Likes Received:
    0
    Houston, Texas
    I would just like to re-state what I said before so no one misunderstands me. Now my statement might not be for this gentlemen here, from later threads it sounds like this might not be his issue but my thought before was from my personal experience. Three of eight engines (4G63) that I have built, had crank-walk. One common symptom I noticed was that the engine would die after pressing the clutch in at idle. Personally I like to thoroughly diagnose and record symptoms that I come across on each build so the problems don't happen again. So one thing I noticed on each of these crank-walked engines was that when I ran the engine in neutral up to 2000 RPM's and then pressed the clutch in, the engine would drop anywhere from 200-500 rpms without any adjustment of the throttle position. This is from experience with 4G63 engines. I joined this site to help people, not cause trouble or stir up drama.
    #19
  20. SmalltownDSMer

    SmalltownDSMer Proven Member

    DSM Profiles:
    1
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2008
    Posts:
    283
    Likes Received:
    0
    Doesn't matter, Texas
    While these peeps could be right, I would definately try to get a tune on it. My car would almost die when clutch was engaged but only if I held it in. I became accustomed to rev matching while down shifting (pulling up to an intersection etc.) or pushing the clutch, shifting to neutral, releasing the clutch and coasting up.

    Once I had my baby dynoed with a good tune, never came across the problem again :thumb: Just my .02
    #20
  21. nwedlake

    nwedlake Probationary Member

    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2008
    Posts:
    15
    Likes Received:
    0
    San Jose, California
    What type of BOV do you have and is it recirculated?
    #21
  22. allrice4g63

    allrice4g63 Proven Member

    DSM Profiles:
    1
    Joined:
    Jun 17, 2008
    Posts:
    168
    Likes Received:
    0
    hager city, Wisconsin
    this same problem was just happening to my buddy on his 92 all wheel and it turns out 3 bell housing bolts were loose on the transmission cause something to rub actually bogging the motor down enough to kill it.
    #22
  23. jeffo

    jeffo Proven Member

    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2008
    Posts:
    379
    Likes Received:
    7
    Hobe Sound, Florida
    ^^^+++^^^
    Low base timing will cause this problem. When you push in the clutch, the airflow drops very quickly, causing the ECU to drop down too fast on the timing maps. The ECU uses the ISC as a dashpot, to drop the rpm's slowly, but it happens too fast for the ECU to catch it. If you are running E85, you should be able to run >5* BTDC.
    keydiver
    #23

Share This Page