Street Build: 98 Eclipse GSX 350-400hp DD

[PrimerPLus]

Hello, well I will be beginning my "mini tear down" soon with removing the head for new gasket, and arp headstuds. As well as putting in my new South Bend Clutch TZ/B-Series Kevlar/Ceramic and Act lighten flywheel. So with that in mind, I have decided to post pictures of what I am doing and how it is coming along once I get started. I like input from people and I like advice. As the title says this will be my Daily Driver and I am shooting for 350-400hp. I would really like to see the 400hp. I will list what I have and then what I think I need/want. If you feel I need something or don't need something let me know Oh and yes I did/do my maintenance I don't wanna blow up my engine 1st pull . Also I just read the new thread on maintenance and I feel better knowing I did all that was recommended I will of course look over other parts while I am in the engine and probably ask questions once i'm there too.

So current list of mods:
1. DSM Link v3lite
2. EVO3 16g bought from Forced Performance. with install kit
3. Greddy Type-S BOV recirculated
4. 3" Turbo Back Exhaust
5. Ebay Intake
6. Aeromotive Stealth 340lph Fuel Pump / drilled Siphon to 1/8" - with rewire kit
7. Hallman Pro MBC
8. FIC 1150cc fuel injectors
9. Aeromotive A1000 AFPR
10. PR FMIC
11. NGK Plugs/Wires
12. AEM Wideband Uego
13. AEM Boost Gauge
14. AEM Oil Pressure Gauge 0-150
15. South Bend Clutch Heavy Duty TZ/B-Series Kevlar/Ceramic Clutch Assembly
16. ACT StreetLite Flywheel
17. OEM Throw out bearing
18.Drilled and Slotted Rotors
19. FP exhaust manifold
20. Fluidampr
21. 18" Rims -235/40r18 Need a good set of street tires / dry &wet -still looking
22. PUNISHMENT RACING TIAL 38mm MVS WASTEGATE + RECIRCULATED O2 HOUSING
23. Fuel Lab fuel filter
24. Koni Yellow's with GC kit
25. Short SS Clutch line

Stuff I may need to reach 400hp?
1. 272 Cams - IDK what brand or if even needed
2. Adjustable cam gears? again IDK if needed
3. Water/Meth Injection? - This item looks really awesome to me. I like that it reduces heat but I am not 100% sure how it is used especially for a DD. At first I thought it was similar to Nitrous but now I don't think its like that. Seems to run off of a certain boost psi? Which would be great because that means it would not always be being injected until a certain psi and it is automatic meaning I don't have to have some button to press while driving?

Well I also thought I would list some fun stuff for the car too that aren't performance related
1. Symborski shift kit
2. B&M Short shift
3. Skateboard bearing shifter mod
4. Pioneer 6300UB Deck, Rockford front and rear speakers
5. RTM Racing Shift Knob -Mitsubishi Logo
6. Gates Blue Belts
7. Powder coated Metalic Blue Valve cover - done by 19TSI95AWD
8. Aerocatch locking hood pins


These pictures are old but I thought I would upload now and then you can see it during my install of most of the mods I listed and then the finished product.

[TsiJohn333]

Its coming along awesome man. Keep up the good work! if I was gonna suggest to get something, I would suggest an aluminum radiator to keep temps down along with some slim fans. With everything you have done, its gonna get a little hot under your hood!

[zac83]

Looking forward to see you get into this journal. Thought I would weigh in on you with your ???s.

A 272 or something slightly less aggressive (like 264s) will get you there, I would go with HKS 272s but that's personal preference.

I'de not recommend the adjustable cam gears, they won't make any difference with the upgrades and power level that you're looking for. Save your money for better things.

The water or meth injection is really deceptive; you're right in thinking that it is NOT like nitrous oxide. Water or meth injection is an octane booster. Since the system would be activated by a pressure switch or your DSMlink, you're also right that it wouldn't always be spitting water or meth into the intake. The concept is simple, if you want to be aggressive with timing and boost, you're going to run into engine knock with pump gas. One solution for an aggressive tune is to run a higher octane fuel (e85, C16, meth, etc) which is more resistant to knock. The other is water/meth injection which will effectively raise the octane level of your cylinder on demand. If you go this route, you can deactivate the system when you're driving the car on low boost/conservative tune and activate it when you're running high boost/aggressive tune. It's worth mentioning, in your case, that all of this can be actuated by DSMlink.

Just my .02 cents.

[PrimerPLus]

Thanks for the support! I am most likely going to be picking up a water/meth injection kit. Also still deciding on if I want/need cams.

[DSM's 4 life]

Hey I am going to be building a water meth injection system later in my build if your interested
1995 Eagle Talon Tsi Engine Shave/Build

[PrimerPLus]

Awesome I'll subscribe!

Also I finally got all my parts in. When college is out 2more weeks I will have free time to get this thing going!

[ka24debt]

good to hear! looking forward to updates

[icerob]

i say get rid of evo3 and upgrade 20g or 50 trim. Will make it easier to reach 400hp.

[PrimerPLus]

Lol probably but the Evo 3 is a very nice street turbo. if I can't hit 400 I'll be happy getting close to it. Besides this is my first dsm build. If the time comes that I need to rebuild entire motor I'll look into going with a bigger turbo

[PrimerPLus]

Well yesterday I towed my car over to my dads. College ends tomorrow and I'll be starting on it this weekend. I have decided to just pull the motor and tranny all at once. I think it will make it easier for changing the clutch and the head. I'm excited to get started on it, so close!

[forumboarder154]

I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND building the trans first while it is out Been there and broke the stock one twice at only 400whp. It blows. "Once and done" is my new motto. I highly recommend you do the clutch line now with the new clutch going in, it is very cheap only $15 on ebay. Good luck.

[PrimerPLus]

Started working on the tear down on Saturday and had some errands to do Sunday. I got back to it today, Monday, and the motor is out!

So tomorrow I will get the head off and get it to the machine shop

Decided to do an A/C delete as it is not working anyways and would need to be recharged.

Also will need to get new seals for the tranny. I have not decided if I should get it rebuild or not. I don't have the money to send it in to shepTrans. Suggestions on that would be nice.

Here is some pictures of what I have done so far.

[zArlen]

Good to see you starting! Looking forward to seeing more... your goals are very similar to mine.

[BadAss4Bangers]

Looks like a good build. Your going to have a hard time reaching 400whp with an EVOIII turbo though. I have almost the same setup as you and I made 353whp at 28psi (also my turbo was ported by FP). My tranny just shit the bed after the tune though so its going in for a rebuild at the end of the week . I will tell you that 353whp is a lot of fun though . You could very well reach your goal or come very close with meth injection if you decide to go through with it. Good luck on your build.

P.S. Depending on how many miles you have, you might want to consider changing the rear main seal while the tranny is out if you have not already. It would suck for it to start leaking shortly after getting it back up and running.

[PrimerPLus]

Got everything off the block today and head is off. The head gasket was just barely torn in 2 places but just enough to make it leak. Yah I was planning on replacing all the accessible seals for the tranny, axles and T-Case.

Anyone know a good degreaser I can use on my engine and inside of engine bay? I want to clean it all up and make it look clean. There is nasty oil everywhere lol.

Here are some pictures.

[mantega4g63]

A bunch of cans of carborator cleaner will get anything noticeable off the block itself, and a pack of hand towels. Just harness it above a good sized pale to let it all seep off into it when cleaning, re use what you can too. Build is looking mighty nice though, we also share similar goals

[96-2g-talon]

Looks good cant wait to see your progress I have similair goals and its nice to just get your hands dirty

[Nutty-GST]

Looking good bro!! Keep up the good work

[PrimerPLus]

Got my crash bar cut and ready for the FMIC. New headgasket on with ARP head studs on, changed out the fuel pump for Walbro 255, cleaned up some bad connections in the engine bay. Motor is all assembled, just waiting for seals for the tranny. Then will get start to put it all back in.

Forgot to mention. I had the oil port mod 1 done to my head while it was at the machine stop. Didn't get a picture of it but it was done really nicely.

[907gs-t]

Looking good.

[96' Eclipse GS]

Nice build, But a quick question. How are you holding the car up that high? All I see in the photos is a tire on the driver's side and what appears to be a block on the passenger's side? ...... .........keep up the great work!

[PrimerPLus]

yah there is a block on each side and then jackstands on each side, it is sturdy. I would not crawl in that if it wasn't lol

[omega260]

Awesome, I am thinking of picking up my first DSM sometime during the summer with a similar goal. I will be watching this thread. Do you think you will need to rebuild your tranny?

[PrimerPLus]

I do not think it needs a rebuild. I did replace all the seals that did not require taking the tranny apart. If I end up needing a rebuild I will save for a Shepard stage 2 tranny

Getting closer to finishing. Motor is in.

[omega260]

Good stuff, any reason you chose to pull the motor? Or you just did it to make it easier to work on everything?

[PrimerPLus]

I chose to pull the motor because basically all that would of been left in the engine bay would of been the block. I figured it would be easier because I had to pull tranny and all for new flywheel and clutch. Wasn't too bad.

Today got a lot done. I am almost done. Just have to get new battery terminals, wire in gauges, put in the exhaust, do fluid flush and tranny flush, and coolant flush. Should be running real soon!

Punishment Intercooler Installed. Wasn't too bad to do.


Here I installed a T so I can have original oil pressure gauge for the gauge cluster and my AEM Oil Pressure Gauge.










Installed my Hallman Pro MBC!

[PrimerPLus]

I chose to pull the motor because basically all that would of been left in the engine bay would of been the block. I figured it would be easier because I had to pull tranny and all for new flywheel and clutch. Wasn't too bad.

Today got a lot done. I am almost done. Just have to get new battery terminals, wire in gauges, put in the exhaust, do fluid flush and tranny flush, and coolant flush. Should be running real soon!

Punishment Intercooler Installed. Wasn't too bad to do.


Here I installed a T so I can have original oil pressure gauge for the gauge cluster and my AEM Oil Pressure Gauge.










Installed my Hallman Pro MBC!

[PrimerPLus]

Little Update. Got the Exhaust, and Aeromotie AFPR on and started to add fluids for the flush. Well started with the coolant. Well poored in water and it leaked. Bummer! So took off the thermostat housing and cleaned it all up and put it back on and leaked again! So took it off again and come to realize that the housing in broken! The whole side just fell off. Well when I started this and took that off I noticed there was a ton of black gasket filler there. I guess previous owner was trying to make sure it held together. So got to order a new one. AH well. Should of got a picture of the crack but I didn't. I added some "The Right Stuff" and stuck it back together. I will use it just to hear the motor run but will switch it when new one gets here.

here is a picture of my Aeromotive AFPR install. I could not find a place and then I seen the bracket for the Brake Fluid and just added it there. Pretty solid. I think it's a good place.

[TheTalon]

looking good man keep up the awesome work

[PrimerPLus]

Almost done. Waiting for new thermostat housing. Started it up today with the old housing no leaks but still replacing it lol. It purrs like a kitten. Gauges work. A little issue that is stumping me though. I bled the clutch on Tuesday and have not touched it since. Today when I got in it and pressed on the clutch it barely came back. There must still be air in the system. Will look more into this during the week. One other issue that isn't really an issue is my stock cluster oil pressure gauge seems to do what it wants. It use to only work on certain days. Now I had it unplugged from the sensor and it went up half way. Then I connected it and it went back down and then back up and slowly fell down. So I am confused on that lol. Other than those 2 things everything else is fine.

Here is some more pictures. Mostly just cosmetic.