Replacing Seized Rear Toe Control Arms

[wret]

If you live in the north, or wherever salt is used on the roads in winter, sooner or later your mechanic will tell you that your rear toe cannot be adjusted because the bolts are seized. When the bolts become rust-welded inside the bushings, you will not have much luck blasting it with your favorite release agent (PB Blaster, et al). Looking at the bushing from under the car, you will notice a lot of rust. Drenching this part of the bushing will not help. The problem is on the inside where the bolt passes through and it's not likely that you can get any spray lube in there. You will not be able to remove and replace just the bolt. The entire control arm assembly will need to be replaced.

Fear not. The arms are not expensive, currently less than $30 from the mail order parts dealers. You should be able to get both arm assemblies shipped to your door for about $80. Removing the old arms can be an ordeal. The bolts are hardened steel and the mounting point is recessed so it is difficult or impossible to get at with an angle grinder. With a little patience, and a bunch of blades, it is possible to cut through the bushing and bolt with a reciprocating saw. If you make the cut in the right spot, you can get the arm out with a single cut. Otherwise it may take two or three. Either way, you should be able to replace both arms in 2-3 hours.

Parts List and Materials for GS-T Check for different part numbers for AWD and non-turbo.
• MR162571 LINK,RR SUSP ASSIST,LH
• MR162572 LINK,RR SUSP ASSIST,RH
• MR911314 CAM BOLT (special order)
• MR130510 NUT,RR SUSP ASSIST LINK
• MB911283 PLATE,RR SUSP ASSIST LI
• Heavy Grease

Tools
• Jack and Stands
• Socket Wrench – Two if you have them. 17mm sockets and extensions.
• Breaker bar
• Hammer (or other tool to separate the ball joint)
• Reciprocating Saw with a pack of heavy metal blades. I found the shorter blades to be a little easier.
• Cutting oil
• Small pipe wrench- The wrench I used is an 8” but it’s not the length that is important. You will need one with narrow jaws; ½ inch.
• Safety glasses.

Procedure
1. Raise the rear of the vehicle and support with stands. Raise it high enough to give you room to maneuver a two-foot breaker bar, if possible.
2. Remove the rear wheels.
3. Remove the nut and cam washer from the toe control arm.
4. Cut through the bushing and bolt of the toe control arm between the frame and control arm end, but as close to the arm as possible. Stop every minute or so or whenever you see smoke and spray the blade and cut with lubricant. It may help to cut part way through from one side, and then hit it from the other side. You may be able to snap the bolt off with the breaker bar without having to cut completely through it.
5. After cutting all the way through, the cut piece of bushing may still be stuck onto the end of the bolt. Grasp the cut portion of the bushing with a pipe wrench and turn the bolt. You should be able to turn the bushing until it and the bolt head separate and fall free. If you can't separate them, you will need to make another cut close to the frame to remove the section of bushing.
6. Remove the nut on the ball joint end of the arm and separate the joint.
7. Remove the control arm.
8. Install new arm with well greased bolt.
9. Repeat steps 1-8 for other side.

Ron Tew

[luv2rallye]

I just got all the parts from Mitsubishiparts.com for $115.70 total (includes S&H). The Cam Bolt is part number MB911314 (not MR911314) and then is not a special order. I used 6" 14TPI Blu-Mol bi-metal with cobalt recip saw blades (Home Depot) which worked great. Only used 3 and didn't even need cutting oil. Everything worked just like this article said except I heated the cut bushing red hot with a Mapp gas/O2 torch to free it from the bolt and frame which I think works easier (I didn't have any pipe wrench that fit and a vise grip long nose pliers did nothing). Very well done article which I highly recommend!