2G installing (Bobbys) tubular rear upper arms

Posted by ec17pse, Mar 11, 2017

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  1. ec17pse

    ec17pse Freelancer

    2,476
    585
    Joined Nov 1, 2008
    London, Europe
    Hello all and welcome to how to install these rear upper arms that I have built!

    *I know most of you are happy to work on your own cars but if your not please get help to avoid any issues or damages as I wont be held responsible if you do not install them correctly! this is designed to be a race part and has been road tested but please look after them and keep the threads clean and greased up for rust protection and seizing etc!

    *While this can be done with very minimal movement of the knuckle once you remove your oem units it is still advised to have them re setup and aligned to stop any toeing or excess camber you do not require!

    before you jack the car up look at your arms and see how they angle! use this as a guidance to how you set the inner roll center adjustment! they should point a little up but if your lower and they point up alot more then move 1 hole up! the bottom most hole is the oem level hole!

    first thing is first! loosen the rear wheel lug nuts and then jack the car up safely and use axle stands to protect yourself further, the use of wheel chocks are helpful as well.

    take all the oem rear upper arms off and inner brackets or you can leave it all in 1 lump as it is easier, don't worry about the knuckle moving, if you have stock rubber bushes it wont move alot, if you have poly bushes then it will move more since the sleeves are free motion!

    clean the surface of the inner brackets area up and make sure the threads are nice and clean and free of dirt and metal etc.
    17192592_10155295225526337_2813693282019179771_o.jpg

    now with the M10 flanged bolts use them and locate them all in the threads first then you can tighten them all down. the torque setting for these is listed at 28 Ft-Lbs.

    (Note 3 holes) the lowest hole or central most hole is where the OEM mounting level is, each hole above is spaced 1" apart from there up,

    17157620_10155295223806337_1456713488941536172_o.jpg 17157626_10155295222871337_3447753996955161080_o.jpg

    proceed to put the arm in on the knuckle side and slide the M12 bolt through to hold it in place and use the flanged nyloc to stop it falling off, the bolts are designed to go on 1 side for drivers and passengers! the M12 bolt head will always face towards the front of the car! and the threads towards the back of the car, this is because of the welds and space for the bolt heads and flanged nut!
    17159160_10155295220836337_7901632107296735409_o.jpg

    I recommend first using the inner most hole to start off with on the outer mounting as most wont need to ever use the outer hole unless your super low and need a lot of positive camber put back in! if we find the outer hole is pointless I may consider removing it totally for future batches! (yes i know i put it in the outer hole but i will be changing it soon)

    with the arm in place progress to swinging the arm into the bracket to your choice of hole and adjust to suit, keep in mind you always want it slightly on an up angle towards the outside of the car! so the inner point is lower then the outside bolt connection! so when its under load you still gain some camber under compression but this is something you will need to check out for your needs and cars height. use the M10 bolt to make sure it goes through OK and its not being pulled to get it in the hole, use the flanged nyloc to hold it in place to stop it coming out on you. these also need to go in a specific way! the room is very tight and the threads on these M10 bolts will point to the front of the car!

    if you find you cannot get the rod end with spacers in easily just loosen the lower inner bracket bolt a bit and it will go in nicely! both my chassis are different and 1 was harder then the other so it may need some help in the way of making 1 bolt loose to help! don't forget to do it up after its in of course!!!
    17212266_10155295221541337_8989535832342449769_o.jpg 17158871_10155295219821337_888801371882426022_o.jpg

    once everything is on and your happy with your locations do everything up tight! i have to torque specs on these because I've only ever done these up so they clamp and are tight and stop moving! this has never been an issue for me in years so just don't kill the bolts in half haha. make sure the rod ends are straight and in-line and do the jam nut up to keep them in place, if the rod ends are not straight it can cause damage to them and wear them out faster.

    when both sides are done put the wheels back on do the lug nuts up and do them up! be safe on the first drive as tracking may be out.



    all arm bolts are 12.9 socket capped bolts with flanged nylocs, all normal metric thread sizes and very common to replace if need be from most hardware stores! or ebay online m12x75 and m10x65.

    the inner mounting bolts are metric fine (m10x1.25) and can be replaced via bel metric https://www.belmetric.com/m10x125-f...c-p-415.html?zenid=kpv7ak669etvqhqv35bnak1jr3 these heads are a 14mm where as mine are 15mm and with a special coating so these wont be of the same high quality as mine but are decent replacements.

    the rod ends are all RH 5/8 UNF and are made specifically for the company in the UK I buy them from! but they have told me the nearest item in the US is made by QA1! this is of similer design and quality and should be a good replacement if ever that time comes!
    XMR10 XM Endura Series Rod End
    http://www.qa1.net/rod-ends-and-related/rod-ends/endura-series/xm-series-chromoly-steel
    or
    https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/hal-xmr10/overview/

    Thank you for reading and if you have any questions please do PM me.

    Bobby,

    OH and thanks for buying my arms and supporting me!!​
     

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    Last edited: Mar 16, 2017
    My DSM:
    1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST

    Road Race Build

    175 whp   180.1 lb/ft
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