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Throttle Body & Final Assembly

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VETDRMS

15+ Year Contributor
340
21
Jun 1, 2006
Vancouver, Washington
I sent the throttle body off to Steve at throttlebodys.com, who did a great job and had a very fast turnaround. I had the "uber" seals installed that are tested to 40+psi. The sensors also checked out good. He also machined out a minor scrape in the inlet area. There shouldn't be any leaks...

RebuiltThrottleBody.jpg


I also got the cams installed. The paper clip method worked great to pump all the packing oil out of the new lifters and everything got a good coat of assembly lube. I also installed the studs for the valve cover. I ordered the Moroso oil pan stud kit for this. I picked up an Evo 12mm CAS bolt and torqued it to 22ft/lbs with some red Loctite to try to keep it in place. The cam was incorrectly drilled for the Evo bolt so I had to have the CAS trigger drilled to fit the larger bolt.

CamsInstalledandStuds.jpg


I think I mentioned this before, but why on earth do the cam lobes get progressively closer to the cam caps as you go down the cylinders? By the time you get to the end of the cam part of the roller on the rocker arm isn't even on the lobe!

CamCapClearanceWTF.jpg


The motor primed very fast and had oil in the head in less than 30 seconds. With the drill on low speed it had a constant 50 psi of oil pressure, and about 70 psi on high speed. I noticed the gear felt "notchy" after priming it but once it sat for a while it went away. I could turn the gear very slowly and watch it push oil out of the lifters, so I think I was just feeling back pressure right after priming it.

I spent way too much time trying to get the hydraulic tensioner adjusted just where I wanted it. I didn't have a beam type inch-lb torque wrench so I couldn't measure the torque applied to the belt. I instead relied on the amount of protrusion from the hydraulic tensioner.

After setting the tension and rotating it, it would start out too far extended and slowly go back into the tensioner over the 15 minutes checking period. I had expected the opposite as the belt "stretched". Is this normal? Even after 15 minutes the amount of protrusion would continue decreasing.

Here is where I finally ended up. After setting belt tension and rotating the crank 2 times the tensioner was protruding 0.1700". After 15 minutes it was protruding 0.1500" and the grenade pin could be inserted but the pin was obviously at the top of the amount of protrusion that would allow the pin to be inserted (the grenade pin rests on the top edge of the hole in the housing and the bottom edge tensioner plunger).

After the 15 minutes it continued to go down a bit but not much. Could this have anything to do with the cams I am running? There is no place in the rotation where there feels like there is any slack on the belt, and there is a lot of overlap so it is even tight at TDC. I just want to make sure this isn't set up too tight to try and keep the oil pump alive.

If I turn the motor over another 2 rotations the pin will re-extend the initial set height and decrease over the 15 minutes to about 0.1500".

Here's how everything looked installed:

TimingBeltInstalled.jpg


The other side:

HeadDoneBack.jpg


The new front cover went on fine, other than the deck height difference of the 4G64 throwing things off a bit around the motor mount.

So far I'm very happy with how the color scheme is working out. It is almost too pretty to put in a daily driver that will spend 6 months of the year commuting in the rain.

Hopefully first start will be in the next week or so. :)

FrontCoverOn1.jpg


FrontCoverOn2.jpg
 
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