This is for the EXPERTS!!!! Complex.

[Ultimatedsm]

Hey how are you guys doing? Alright, I have done a 6 bolt swap in a 95 talon TSI. I did everything on the RRE site and magnus site. The car starts up and everything. WHen I first had it the car would build boost no problem. However, later on it couldnt hold boost anymore. I didn't even do anything because it was just sitting there. There was a bit of vac leaks but I fixed them all.

Problem: under boost car bucks and sputters.



Troubeshooting tried so far:

1. Boost leak test. I had a few leaks and fixed them all. I even did a smoke test. I found out my compressor housing was cracked. I fixed that.

2. Mass wire wasn't on properly. I was getting a code for Mass air not detected. However I soldered that wire and thats done. I even changed the MAS and samething.

3. Checked my wires on my ECU to see if they were in the right places. (When you do a 1g in a 2g you have to either remove the pins in the ECU. Or you can cut the wires and solder them. I checked this twice and its fine.


So guys what should I do next? Could it be the coil pack or power transitor? Or could it be the MBC? Or even the wastegate. I dont know what to do. OLDMAN!!!!! I need your help!!!!! or someone just as good!

 

[CanadianTSi]

Have you tried simply chaning your plugs/wires?

 

[hellotbone]

Hey how are you guys doing? Alright, I have done a 6 bolt swap in a 95 talon TSI. I did everything on the RRE site and magnus site. The car starts up and everything. WHen I first had it the car would build boost no problem. However, later on it couldnt hold boost anymore. I didn't even do anything because it was just sitting there. There was a bit of vac leaks but I fixed them all.

Problem: under boost car bucks and sputters.



Troubeshooting tried so far:

1. Boost leak test. I had a few leaks and fixed them all. I even did a smoke test. I found out my compressor housing was cracked. I fixed that.

2. Mass wire wasn't on properly. I was getting a code for Mass air not detected. However I soldered that wire and thats done. I even changed the MAS and samething.

3. Checked my wires on my ECU to see if they were in the right places. (When you do a 1g in a 2g you have to either remove the pins in the ECU. Or you can cut the wires and solder them. I checked this twice and its fine.


So guys what should I do next? Could it be the coil pack or power transitor? Or could it be the MBC? Or even the wastegate. I dont know what to do. OLDMAN!!!!! I need your help!!!!! or someone just as good!

What is it exactly your car is doing? or isn't doing I have done this swap myself on a 95 so lets start with the basics. If your not not making boost and the leak tests out ok then move onto the turbos WG hanging up or something like that. Check your MBC and also if you wish unhook it and run the WG with no boost source for a test run and see it it will boost. If the WG is fine it will build unlimited boost so be careful.

There aren't really a whole lot of things it can be so start with the basics if its a boost problem trouble shoot that system. It will consist of your IC pipes exhuat mainly the manifold to gasket seal and the turbo to manifold seal and the WG system of the turbo. You will also want to check the turbo its self for shaft play oil leaks any sign of problems.

Let us know and report back with as much detail as you can.

 

[TalonD27A]

Hey how are you guys doing? Alright, I have done a 6 bolt swap in a 95 talon TSI. I did everything on the RRE site and magnus site. The car starts up and everything. WHen I first had it the car would build boost no problem. However, later on it couldnt hold boost anymore. I didn't even do anything because it was just sitting there. There was a bit of vac leaks but I fixed them all.

Problem: under boost car bucks and sputters.



Troubeshooting tried so far:

1. Boost leak test. I had a few leaks and fixed them all. I even did a smoke test. I found out my compressor housing was cracked. I fixed that.

2. Mass wire wasn't on properly. I was getting a code for Mass air not detected. However I soldered that wire and thats done. I even changed the MAS and samething.

3. Checked my wires on my ECU to see if they were in the right places. (When you do a 1g in a 2g you have to either remove the pins in the ECU. Or you can cut the wires and solder them. I checked this twice and its fine.


So guys what should I do next? Could it be the coil pack or power transitor? Or could it be the MBC? Or even the wastegate. I dont know what to do. OLDMAN!!!!! I need your help!!!!! or someone just as good!

Which BOV do you have and is it recirculated

 

[tstkl]

have you replaced the caps on your ecu, check to see if they are leaking, if you hear a clicking from behind the radio, your f*cked...(well your ecu is at least...)

 

[Ultimatedsm]

I checked for the turbo for play and it was fine. It spins freely. I have my bov venting, however, this never caused a boost problem. It just caused me to run a little rich between shifts. Spark plugs (NGK Irdiums) and wires Accel 8mm. I have used these before on my 7 bolt before it took a crap and it was perfectly fine.

I will check the WG and MBC tomorrow. I will keep you guys posted. Thanks a lot for the quick replies.

 

[Ultimatedsm]

And my ECU is perfectly fine. I tried it and was tested.

 

[hellotbone]

I checked for the turbo for play and it was fine. It spins freely. I have my bov venting, however, this never caused a boost problem. It just caused me to run a little rich between shifts. Spark plugs (NGK Irdiums) and wires Accel 8mm. I have used these before on my 7 bolt before it took a crap and it was perfectly fine.

I will check the WG and MBC tomorrow. I will keep you guys posted. Thanks a lot for the quick replies.

Venting = Ghetto

NGK Iridiums = Junk in our cars get some good Regualr NGK BPR7ES plugs

Check that MBC and WG for it leaking or the MBC not working right. Let us know.

 

[TalonD27A]

I checked for the turbo for play and it was fine. It spins freely. I have my bov venting, however, this never caused a boost problem. It just caused me to run a little rich between shifts. Spark plugs (NGK Irdiums) and wires Accel 8mm. I have used these before on my 7 bolt before it took a crap and it was perfectly fine.

I will check the WG and MBC tomorrow. I will keep you guys posted. Thanks a lot for the quick replies.

Try plumbing it back in.

 

[dave99gst]

Are you getting any more CEL's ?
it bothers me that you mess'd with the injector wires.
did you swap pins or re-wire ?
On a 1g in a 2g car i had the #3 injector wire would loose its connection alot.
and the car would run like crap. (this car had the pins swapped)
Bucking under boost is a sign of bad spark. (plugs,wires,gap)
Did you set the CAS correct ? is it 180 degrees out ?

Am i gathering the car was fine at first ?

 

[Ultimatedsm]

I cut and soldered the wires instead of removing the pins because it was a PITA. The car ran fine with some vac leaks which overtime I fixed. There is a missfire code which is common with a 1g in a 2g. I have a 92 CAS which is set properly I lined the mark on it. I have to mess with the injector wires because on the RRE site for 95-96 you have to. Its different for 97-99's.

I am going to check the WG and MBC tomorrow. Could I connect the WG vac hose back to the BC solnoid? There are two nipples, one on top of the other. Do I connect the WG vac to the top one? And for the MBV vac hose which is T'd off with the BOV vac. Do I connect that hose to the bottom of the BC solnoid? Thanks again.

 

[Spoolin98]

Have you tried simply chaning your plugs/wires?

You never answered about the plugs/wires/gap?

 

[oldman]

You never answered about the plugs/wires/gap?

Yes, have you checked the conditions and the gap? The conditions of the plug can tell a lot.

1. Boost leak test. I had a few leaks and fixed them all. I even did a smoke test. I found out my compressor housing was cracked. I fixed that.

I have heard this one too many times so I must double check. How much pressure did the intake tract hold and for how long? Be honest.

I have my bov venting, however, this never caused a boost problem.

Well it is now, I strongly suggest that you recirculate, at least for the sake of troubleshooting.

Finally, perform a compression test.

BTW You should edit my name out of the title, you're probably turning off a lot of possible helpers. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=192811 Do it before a mod see it.

 

[leet]

Too late, I saw it!

Edited.

 

[oldman]

Too late, I saw it!

Edited.

Good thing it was you and not defiant. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=193409

 

[hellotbone]

I cut and soldered the wires instead of removing the pins because it was a PITA. The car ran fine with some vac leaks which overtime I fixed. There is a missfire code which is common with a 1g in a 2g. I have a 92 CAS which is set properly I lined the mark on it. I have to mess with the injector wires because on the RRE site for 95-96 you have to. Its different for 97-99's.

I am going to check the WG and MBC tomorrow. Could I connect the WG vac hose back to the BC solnoid? There are two nipples, one on top of the other. Do I connect the WG vac to the top one? And for the MBV vac hose which is T'd off with the BOV vac. Do I connect that hose to the bottom of the BC solnoid? Thanks again.

I still don't get why you cut the wires yes I know you have to move them I did on mine as well, if you take a look at the plug I know exactly why you call it a PITA its because you don't know how to take it apart. Aside from that the wires practically fall out when done right.

Just give us the info we now ask for and the problem will be solved. Plugs/Wires and the WG shitting all the way.

 

[ddavisaf]

Bucking and sputtering leads me more towards plugs than wastegate.
NGK Iridiums have caused me lots of heart aches in the past. NGK BPR6 (or 7)ES. Gapped at .028"-.03

oldman, we can make another wager on this thread too if you'd like.

 

[TalonD27A]

I would agree with the plugs and wires possibility. Many DSM's have ignition problems in this area because of the heat they generate. It's usually the wires, but changing the plugs while your in there is no big deal. Don't buy any cheap set of wires. I recommend Magnecore 8.5mm. The 10mm Is a little big for street applications.

 

[talonTSIDriver]

I had a very simular problem with my car. When i punched it, it would sputter. New spark plug wires fixed that problem. And it also happened on a friends car as well. Try to plug wires...

 

[Ultimatedsm]

Alright the ACCEL plug wires have probably 500 KM on them. However, the car was sitting for over 6 months. Irdiums haven't gave me problems in the 7 bolt (Can't GAP Irdium plugs) However I will try the new plugs (NGK BPR7ES plugs). And OLDMAN, the intake tract held 20 PSI. Don't want to go overboard with that. I even did a smoke test, thats how I found out my compressor housing was cracked because at 5 psi it would leak out smoke. I repaired that. This is what the car is exactly doing:

Car idles funny once in a while (goes up to 1200 than drops to 500 than goes up again) But doesnt do this all the time ( I checked for vac leaks repaired them all)

When I don't go on boost I can rev easily over 5000 rpm. But, if I go WOT it starts to buck and sputter at 3000 RPM (TURBO is a 14B).

I have a random missfire and the car runs a little shitty once in a while. When I reset my ECU car runs good (except for the boost problem). However once the engine light comes back on the car starts to act a little sputtery. A little popping in the exhaust but when I come to a light and wait for a bit, the random missfire looks like its not there. But than after 5-10 minutes of driving it comes back on. I think this is due to me having a older 92 CAS. I heard the HALL effect (black CAS 94 DSM) will cure this problem or a DSMLINK.

But again I am going to try the PLUGS and you think I should change those wires? They have barely any mileage on them. They are 8mm ACCEL's. Thanks again, hellotone I tried using a jewlers screwdriver to release those pins. The plug wasn't cooperating, so I just cut the wires and soldered them and sealed them.

 

[oldman]

oldman, we can make another wager on this thread too if you'd like.

It's all you, old people can't handle the pressure.

 

[ddavisaf]

I was just playin' around
The plug wires should be fine.
The idle surge sounds more like a bad ISC than anything else. The bucking is most likely caused by the plugs.
I'm not to very familiar with the differences in the CAS's though so someone else will have to chime in about that.

 

[hellotbone]

Bucking = Plugs/Plug wires/Ignition or tuning.

 

[Defiant]

Irdiums haven't gave me problems in the 7 bolt (Can't GAP Irdium plugs)

Um... what?

We may have found your problem.

However I will try the new plugs (NGK BPR7ES plugs).

Stay with 6s for now.

 

[dave99gst]

I am going to check the WG and MBC tomorrow. Could I connect the WG vac hose back to the BC solnoid? There are two nipples, one on top of the other. Do I connect the WG vac to the top one? And for the MBV vac hose which is T'd off with the BOV vac. Do I connect that hose to the bottom of the BC solnoid? Thanks again.

external w/g ? u dont use the top nipple- (unless your running a EBC )
are you over boosting ?