Stalling issues

[warreng96rs]

Hey everyone...

My 96rs continues to test my patience. It starts and idles fine. After driving for around 30 minutes, however, it begins to sputter and eventually stalls.

While it is sputtering, it sounds like the engine is struggling to get fuel, as i believe im hearing detonation. Also in the process of sputtering, the check engine light comes on and sometimes flashes, giving a different keydance code everytime.

After coasting or sitting on the side of the road for around a minute or two after the inevitable stall, the car starts again, and gives me around another 1-3 minutes before beginning to sputter again.

I have gotten CEL codes for the following issues when the engine tries to stall:

• 31 (EVAP problem)
• 54 (cam sensor problem)
• 11 (Crank sensor or timing problem)
• 14 (map sensor problem)

I REALLY don't want to have to buy ALL of these sensors, especially because it's highly doubtful that ALL of them are having problems. That and they total over like $300... and i have purchased SEVERAL sets of plugs... even went back to what im running now (NGKs)... sometimes after the stalling, the plugs have oil all over them... not sure why theyre getting fouled like that... maybe this can be a hint to the problem?

Is this a possible ECU error? or can it be all of those damn sensors, or some more serious mechanical issue with my motor...?

so far i have done a complete tuneup, among other things, to no avail...

• replaced Plugs
• replaced Wires
• replaced Ignition Coil
• replaced PCV
• replaced Coolant Temp Sensor
• replaced o2 sensors (both)
• replaced air filter on CAI
• replaced fuel filter
• ran a can of injector cleaner through it
• checked all vacuum lines
• checked plugs for proper gap
• checked plug wires for proper output
• oil change (to check for coolant leaking from the head)
• crankwalk check (no problem there)
• tried 3 different octanes from 3 different gas stations

yeah, i know it's a long list, but i wanted to save everyone the trouble of asking... i've been on dsmtuners before, but for whatever reason, neither of my old usernames can post ANYWHERE... so here i am.

thanks in advance to anyone that can help.

 

[DSMcrazy3]

It could very well be all of those sensors, especially since you can hear it knocking, 3 of the 4 you listed have to do with timing. Bad timing can cause knock, and stalling.

 

[warreng96rs]

right... they all also tell the ecu in one way or another what the air/fuel mixture should be too... that's why im thinking it may be one out of them, or something more general that somehow affects all of those sensors... but i did see the CAS code come up more often... so I think i'll try that... one at a time till the problem stops i guess... i dont even care how much it costs ($70 for the CAS, $50 X 2 for the two part CamSensor, and $140 for the MAP [ouch]), as long as i get it to stop at this point...

thanks for the input.

 

[miklaver]

fuel pump could be going bad and over heating and then locking up next time it happens try to listen for the fuel pump coming on

 

[somdturbo]

on my 97gs, it was giving a CEL for egr valve and TPS. I did a basic tune up to it, and ran some seafoam through a vac. source. Now I have no CEL's and the car runs and revs smoother then it ever has. I didnt believe in seafoam but I sure as hell do now. Give it a shot it might clear up one or two codes even though techinically it shouldnt...if your lucky

 

[WMD]

Give it a shot it might clear up one or two codes even though techinically it shouldnt...if your lucky

Ya it might kill them dang ol' gremlins hiden' in the intake manifold.

But lets hope he has the problem fixed by now

 

[4UH8ERS]

hey man i had the exact same problem you have had. I can pretty much gaurantee you it is the crankshaft positioning sensor. the 95 through mid 96 models crank sensors are notorious for overheating thats why late 96-99 have different wiring and sensors all together. you can go to a junk yard and get a direct replacement but you cant buy one they are discontinued. if you go to the dealership though they sell the newer version with the new wiring. you just rewire the new wires to the wiring harness, put in the new sensor and plug it in and go. i had to go to autozone afterwards to reset the computer to take the CEL code off because it didnt go off by unhooking the battery. never had a problem since and still no CEL.