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For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

South End Meets 2009

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No, you wont run lean, but you will run way to rich and probably cause your car to knock because of all the extra fuel. You need to get and afc or a maft to control your fuel. You should look into getting a wideband o2 kit and a datalogger to tune your car. That is the budget way of doing it. Just save your money and get ecmlink though, its not that expensive and it will make your car a lot easier to tune.
 
What if I am running at STM -6AN FUEL RETURN KIT, FPR & GAUGE and STM FUEL FEED LINE KIT with the 550cc injectors, big 16g and a 2g mas do you think I will run lean or even just 550ccinjectors and 2g mas do you guy think I will have any problem with this setup? Cause then I will be able to controller the fuel plus I will be running a wablo 255 fuel pump. And why would I run rich cause with the frp I could controll fuel? Then I should also get a afc.
 
Can I run a 2g mas with a STM -6AN FUEL RETURN KIT, FPR & GAUGE and STM FUEL FEED LINE KIT and not run lean? skeeter4200 do you still have your 550cc injectors?
 
just cause you are running an afpr does not mean you are controlling your fuel to your injectors just means you are regulating the pressure to your fuel rail but you are going to need the safc to control the fuel that the injectors are pushing out
 
Can I run a 2g mas with a STM -6AN FUEL RETURN KIT, FPR & GAUGE and STM FUEL FEED LINE KIT and not run lean? with stock 450ccinjectors and not run lean?
 
Can I run a 2g mas with a STM -6AN FUEL RETURN KIT, FPR & GAUGE and STM FUEL FEED LINE KIT and not run lean? with stock 450ccinjectors and not run lean?

Your car will fun fine. You can get a bigger turbo, fpr, lines and what not. Just not larger injectors. The ecu can not controll the added flow of the larger injectors. Theres things like global and dead time that have to be accounted for that can't be computed by the stock ecu. Your car will just dump fuel and run too rich. Running too rich will equate to worse performance than if you just left your car stock. Seriously read the tech section hp 275-300 nowhere does it say buy a bigger turbo and fpr. These are all supporting mods. You are prepping your car for bigger power by doing these mods so that when you do get the biger turbo and injectors you will be able to get the most hp.

Its like body work you wouldn't paint the car first then bondo the dents. You bondo then paint. The same concept applies for making serious and reliable hp.

Thats the biggest miss conception and I see it a lot. It's ok to be egar, but there is a science and a process to the maddness. I don't want to lecture just trying to help.


Step 1:
Intake Pipe and Filter
A high-flow K&N (or similar) intake filter will help throttle response and help all future mods achieve maximum performance. A hard intake pipe will also improve air flow over the factory rubber snorkel. This, along with the MAS modifications should take care of your intake needs at this stage.

» Shop for Intake upgrades



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Step 2:
Aftermarket Boost Gauge
The factory boost gauge is simply not accurate and shouldn't be trusted when raising boost levels. To avoid severe engine damage when increasing boost levels, an aftermarket unit is mandatory. You'll find many brands to choose from, including Autometer, Greddy, Apex'i, Blitz, HKS, Defi, and many more.

» Shop for Gauges



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Step 3:
Boost Controller
In order to raise boost levels, you'll need a boost controller. Whether it be a manual or electronic unit will depend on your budget. Electronic boost controllers are cool looking, but most have been known to be unreliable at over 25psi. At this stage, you won't be turning the boost up past 16psi, so it won't be a problem. But if you plan on moving up to the next stage, a manual boost controller may be better.

» Shop for Boost Controllers



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Step 4:
Cat-back Exhaust System
A 2.5" or 3" high flow exhaust system is needed to gain more power. You can choose between aluminized steel or stainless steel depending on your budget. If your power goals are over 400hp, you'll want a full 3" system from the turbo all the way back. A "cat-back" system replaces the exhaust components from the catalytic convertor to the exhaust tip. A "turbo-back" system replaces the entire exhaust system, and is made up of a "cat-back" plus a downpipe and high-flow cat/straight pipe.

» Shop for Cat-back Exhausts



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Step 5:
High Flow Cat/Straight Pipe
Replace the factory catalytic converter with a larger, higher flowing unit. For off road use, simply bolt up a straight pipe in it's place - of course, this is obviously not street legal.



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Step 6:
High Flow Downpipe
The factory downpipe is very restrictive and should be replaced with a larger, better flowing unit. For Stage 1, a 2.5" downpipe will do. If future plans involve 400+ horsepower, consider a 3" downpipe. These are available in press-bent aluminized steel for those on a budget, or mandrel-bent stainless steel for those with a little more cash to spend.

» Shop for Downpipes



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Step 7:
Exhaust Manifold
The exhaust manifold on 1G DSMs are notorious for cracking and leaking. The solution is to replace it with a ported factory 95-99 exhaust manifold or aftermarket tubular header. If you're planning on going with a full Garrett turbo, you'll need a manifold that is made to bolt up to a Garret turbo.

» Shop for Exhaust Manifolds



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Step 8:
O2 Sensor Housing
In between the turbo and the downpipe is a 90 degree elbow called the O2 Sensor Housing. The O2 sensor screws into this housing. This is the last restriction in the exhaust system. The stock unit can be ported out, or you can simply buy a better flowing unit. If you choose to go with a "turbo-back" exhaust system, this housing will automatically be replaced.

» Shop for O2 Sensor Housings



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Step 9:
Fuel Pump
The stock fuel pump will not be able to supply the needed fuel for anything over 16psi of boost. Though you won't need to go past that in this stage, it's still cheap insurance to put in at least a 190Lph fuel pump to ensure you have enough fuel in case you want to raise the boost with race gas in the tank. It's also a good idea to re-wire the fuel pump for consistent fuel pressure. If you go with a 255lph pump, you'll need an adjustable fuel pressure regulator.

» Shop for High flow Fuel Pumps



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Step 10:
Intercooler Piping
The rubber intercooler piping should be replaced with better flowing solid pipes. Some replacements will come with a larger throttle body elbow (which is needed also). The turbo outlet elbow should be swapped out for a larger unit as well. Please note that if a Stage 2 setup is in the plans, this upgrade may not be necessary as the intercooler piping will likely be routed differently with a front mount intercooler.

» Shop for Intercooler Pipes



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Drivetrain Upgrades

Performance Clutch
With more power on tap, the stock clutch probably won't last that long. It will start to slip, especially in the higher gears. This means it's time for a high performance clutch that can handle the increased horsepower.

» Shop for Aftermarket Clutches



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Shifter Mods
If you have a 5-speed tranny, you'll notice that the shifting is likely less-than-desirable on the 90-94 cars. These transmissions tend to be notchy from the factory to begin with. The best solution short of a rebuild is to put in some good tranny fluid and replace the rubber bushings in the system with some metal bushings. This should help with grinding and missed shifts as well.

» Shop for Short Shifters
» Shop for Tranny Fluid
 
Hey kind of off topic, but where around here does powder coating?

what are you getting coated? I googled seattle powder coating and got quit a few results. I know bone head performance and ffwdconnection both do powder coating.
 
I will see you guys at the meeting. So how are we doing this meeting two times a month like the one in p-town. So in order to run 2g mas I will also need to run a safc?
 
So is the meeting setup like the one in p-town at target we meet two times a month?
 
Yes it's the same as the ptown meets just changing the locations and there is a thread for powdercoating that has lots of options
 
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