Solid motor mounts help

[MadrussianSVT]

Found out that 3 out of 4 motor mounts are shot, so I ordered some prothane solid inserts. Is there step by step DIY on the whole process?

 

[NeMiZiS]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/270117-how-install-prothane-mounts-drill-saw-method.html
Basically you just cut out the rubber and the metal ring and swap in the insert.

 

[MadrussianSVT]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...install-prothane-mounts-drill-saw-method.html
Basically you just cut out the rubber and the metal ring and sawp the in the insert.

Thanx for the reference, those are two side once, I heard front and rear mount require different technique though

 

[dexterholland04]

The other two, front and rear are just inserts. They sandwich the old rubber mounts; it's that simple!

 

[NeMiZiS]

Before I got my avid racing mounts. I did a prothane insert in the rear mount.
I removed the rubber and cut the ring out with a saw blade.

 

[chino9656]

The front is just an insert, not a whole mount. You have to have a good mount to start with. If you need a new mount, I just bought one from Rock Auto for under $20...not the nicest mount, but paired with the inserts it's doing great for me!

 

[MadrussianSVT]

well I thought that the side two were inserts as well. So what is the difference in between side prothane inserts and front insert?

 

[SeaveeDSM]

The front and rear mount prothanes basically are inserts that "sandwhich" the stock rubber mounts and provide substantial additional rigidity. As someone says you need to have existing mounts that are in decent shape or they will have little effect. The two side mounts fully replace the stock rubber inside the mount housings and require the original rubber to be removed - using the cut/burn technique.

The front mount is easy to do and even the rear to a lesser degree.

For each front and rear (doing them one at a time) remove the bolts and mounts, put in the prothane inserts on either side and bolt back up.

For the rear one first remove the battery and battery tray for easier access and also jack up the car (put safety jacks under to stay safe) so you can access one of the bolts and nuts from below.

 

[MadrussianSVT]

The front and rear mount prothanes basically are inserts that "sandwhich" the stock rubber mounts and provide substantial additional rigidity. As someone says you need to have existing mounts that are in decent shape or they will have little effect. The two side mounts fully replace the stock rubber inside the mount housings and require the original rubber to be removed - using the cut/burn technique.

The front mount is easy to do and even the rear to a lesser degree.

For each front and rear (doing them one at a time) remove the bolts and mounts, put in the prothane inserts on either side and bolt back up.

For the rear one first remove the battery and battery tray for easier access and also jack up the car (put safety jacks under to stay safe) so you can access one of the bolts and nuts from below.

I kind of took a quick look at the rear mount when my car was on the lift and I cant even see the mount from there, any tips or reference pictures on those bolts you were talking about and how did you got them out?

 

[NeMiZiS]

Just reach in from the passenger side.
It is a little uncomfortable, but not impossible.
I used a ratchet with an extension.
If my memory is right it is 14mm.

 

[97-TSi-Hx35]

I welded 1/4" steel plates inside the front and rear to minimize engine twist.

 

[MadrussianSVT]

I welded 1/4" steel plates inside the front and rear to minimize engine twist.

How is vibration?

 

[97-TSi-Hx35]

well its kinda rough on cold starts but my entire car is loud so its kinda hard to say, but it works great