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small 16g boost

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triggerx

10+ Year Contributor
364
9
Aug 15, 2009
Gilbert, Arizona
I have a manual boost controller installed. I have it turned down completely while I break in the head. Any reason why I'd still be building boost on my aftermarket guage?

Also I hear a whining noise when coming off the throttle, its not too bad and sometimes goes away, think it might be the turbo
 
You keep dodging what everyone is telling you.

So.. here it is.... GET A WAY TO TUNE IT. DSM Link, MAF-T, whatever... Get a way to tune it.
:)
 
I see what you mean, if that's the case couldn't you tune the injectors somewhat with an afpr by manipulating the fuel pressure to change the rate at which the injectors spray? Suppose its not full proof but I am curious.

I want a set of yellow-top injectors(510cc I think) this combined with a Denso fuel pump from a vr4, should run pretty nicely right?

AFPR won't really help with that, you need one of these:

SAFC don't ask me how to use it or what exactly it does, but after doing tons of reading, thats what I discovered you can use without a DSMlink setup. I've talked to my friend who works on my car with me and he doesn't recommend it just because its apparently harder to tune with. I don't know anything about the fuel pump off of the VR4, I would just say get a wally 255, its cheap and will support a good amount of HP. I've been using one without the re-wire mod and have only noticed a tiny bit of lag when I press the gas pedal.

I have a small 16g too and I've got some boost leaks and now a new exhaust leak, but I'm using stock injectors and an AFPR. I can hit 15psi with no big problems. I REALLY recommend getting a wideband because I still need one. You really can't play with boost without one of these. Go lean for too long and BOOM.
 
The way your wanting to tune it is a painfull way imo.

If I had to go through that way it would be to match the added "air flow" upgrades with the same amount of fuel upgrades so the stock tune "doesn't change". But I would think you'd still need a fine tuner.

Cheapest way would just be to grab an safc 2. And a wb.
If your that cheap buy a used wb and sell it after your done tuning LOL


I'm surprise you noticed the change from 16g vs 14b at stock level.

I switch mine and when I boosted at stock psi both felt the same.(mines an e316g)

AFPR won't really help with that, you need one of these:

SAFC don't ask me how to use it or what exactly it does, but after doing tons of reading, thats what I discovered you can use without a DSMlink setup. I've talked to my friend who works on my car with me and he doesn't recommend it just because its apparently harder to tune with. I don't know anything about the fuel pump off of the VR4, I would just say get a wally 255, its cheap and will support a good amount of HP. I've been using one without the re-wire mod and have only noticed a tiny bit of lag when I press the gas pedal.

I have a small 16g too and I've got some boost leaks and now a new exhaust leak, but I'm using stock injectors and an AFPR. I can hit 15psi with no big problems. I REALLY recommend getting a wideband because I still need one. You really can't play with boost without one of these. Go lean for too long and BOOM.

Harder to tune as oppose to what?

Safc has got to be the easiest tuning thing out there. I finally understand why it sucks after I played with ecmlink but how much harder can it be to subtract or add fuel at x rpm? I mean all it does is tricks the ecu and all the user can do is add or subtract fuel... Literally like a up/down slider LOL
 
The way your wanting to tune it is a painfull way imo.

If I had to go through that way it would be to match the added "air flow" upgrades with the same amount of fuel upgrades so the stock tune "doesn't change". But I would think you'd still need a fine tuner.

Cheapest way would just be to grab an safc 2. And a wb.
If your that cheap buy a used wb and sell it after your done tuning LOL


I'm surprise you noticed the change from 16g vs 14b at stock level.

I switch mine and when I boosted at stock psi both felt the same.(mines an e316g)



Harder to tune as oppose to what?

Safc has got to be the easiest tuning thing out there. I finally understand why it sucks after I played with ecmlink but how much harder can it be to subtract or add fuel at x rpm? I mean all it does is tricks the ecu and all the user can do is add or subtract fuel... Literally like a up/down slider LOL

Apparently harder than a speed density setup because that's what I was deciding between, either spend less and not get the fancy computer and sensor, or get the dsm link and speed density. I've been exploring a way to use bigger injectors as well without spending 1k for the setup.
 
Apparently harder than a speed density setup because that's what I was deciding between, either spend less and not get the fancy computer and sensor, or get the dsm link and speed density. I've been exploring a way to use bigger injectors as well without spending 1k for the setup.

I have no experience with sd but im assuming your talking about link.
Or standalone.

If that's the case you might want to stop listening to your buddy.

I just went through tuning idle/cruise and rough tune of wot and it's been more complicated than using an safc.

Lots more reading involve and lots more "setting " up before the tuning begins.

Honestly if money is an issue, it will depend on your power goal.

I got a used link for 500 with gm maf and cables and EPROM.

With maft and safc2 I was at $330.

Not much difference so I sold the two and got a link when the opportunity came.
 
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