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Project Phoenix

Full interior build for street/DD duty
Specs & Photos Build Thread
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Small update, car is home. Power transistor got REALLY hot and malfunctioned on the way so I'm waiting for a replacement. The Optima Yellow Top is either bad or I have a parasitic draw in the car killing my battery. The car ran for a long time driving and had no electrical issues, so I doubt that the alternator is bad. So after the battery is topped off it's time for testing its voltage, and if that checks out i'll be doing a parasitic draw test. The 16g has turned out to be junk, the current plan is to break the engine in with a spare 14b from a friend and rebuild a Godspeed 20g from another friend to run until I can upgrade the injectors and buy an FP Green. Pic will be incoming shortly of the engine how it is now. I also need to straighten my intercooler bracket a bit, it's not straight.
 
bmxfelon420 updated Project Phoenix


View updates to this DSM profile...[DOUBLEPOST=1412035520][/DOUBLEPOST]Fixed tons of little problems. Replaced the battery, transistor, hooked the Crank sensor back up, swapped to a Big 16g, fixed a bunch of coolant leaks, and straightened the intercooler bracket. Now the FMIC sits level in the front bumper. Also did a bit of tuning, grabbed the Evo 8 Stock DA tables and it runs a lot better. I may try the slightly modded one as well, as I think a Big 16g spooling at 2500rpm would qualify as a "quick spool". I've ran it up to about 15psi and i got a bit of stumbling at that RPM as my wideband needs recalibrated, but I also think the wastegate wasnt working properly as it was cobbled together. I got the correct one on and WG pressure is 9psi. The car seemed pretty happy at that boost but I went ahead and roughly set my manual boost controller with a bicycle pump to about 10psi and put it back on. I'll creep it upwards from there. Hopefully later this week I can put the stock solenoid on and control it in ECMlink instead. I really dont like getting out of the car a thousand times to tweak it.

Also this shows me that I really need to go get a MAP to put in the MDP hole, It'd be so much easier to line up BoostEst with a logged sensor than trying to go off of my gauge. I think the line running to it or where it's T'ed off of is making it a bit off. With the MAF as calibrated as I can get it right now, i'm reading about 6.5-7psi in a log when the boost gauge reads 9-10. I'd like to see how that'd compare with a MAP.
 
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Car runs pretty well. Got a genuine MHI actuator on my genuine MHI Big 16g and now the car runs and boosts ok. It spools at around 2500rpm with my current setup, and very very quickly. The crappy Pacesetter exhaust will be coming off next week and replaced with my nice shiny SRS 3".

I messed with the tune a bit and without the wideband working I dont go above 1/2 throttle or so for safety, although the cars already run so stupidly rich stock that i think its plenty of fuel. It was a bit sluggish at first, and I have swapped my timing and octane tables for Evo 8 stock tables and it is much improved. I actually got knock reading at a pretty low RPM with the stock settings, and this is gone with the Evo tables. I wonder if this has something to do with the slightly altered airflow characteristics of the stroker (faster piston speeds at a lower RPM). I am running around 10psi of boost at the moment, at first i was having boost control issues due to the boost controller having the ball on the wrong side of the spring. I corrected that and all is well. I do plan on using ECMlink to control my boost as soon as I can verify if i need vacuum on the solenoid or not. The car seems to run ok up to about 15psi or so, at which point i'm guessing it doesnt have enough fuel. My MAF comp settings seem to be ok, under cruise my BoostEst is within 1-2 of actual measured vacuum/boost. So I know at least that the airflow calibration is in the ballpark for what I do. I'm considering seeing if the car will cruise at higher RPMs (i.e. different gears, turning OD off in 3rd to start) in order to get compensation adjustments dialed in for higher airflow readings. These should then help me with higher load situations where the car is in closed loop.

My wideband does need recalibrated as well. I plan on installing the button and LED hidden under the right bolt cover on my lower dash piece. As long as there isnt something there to interfere with it. If that wont work i'll see if I can hide it under my ashtray or something. I wanted it somewhere that its impossible to accidentally press, yet easy to access.

Aside from that, I just need to take care of a few common things/maintenence/cosmetic issues to get it really where I want it to be. I need to get my good headunit installed, as well as speakers that I got for the front. No rears yet but i'm working on that. I need new brake rotors and pads for the rear, and probably a full brake bleed. The brakes are a good but could use firming up.
Thanks again to everyone that helped me get this car together.

Here's a pic. I'm thinking of not really trying to get the burnt residue off of the intercooler. What do you guys think?

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IMG_20150217_222005_522.jpg Got a box of parts sitting here ready to go in. Got a 6AN fuel feed, new OEM fuel filter, fuel pump rewire kit, and couplers to redo my intercooler piping. I'm going to move the BOV back to the upper intercooler pipe so I can put my second radiator fan back on.
 
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Had a couple leaks that I fixed, one being the return line (switched to a 1g line) and the other a freeze plug that lost it's seal for some reason. Replaced it with a rubber plug so I was sure it wouldnt leak for awhile at least. Also got the o2 housing rewelded and got at least one more bolt into it, I need to pull it later to put the stud in the back. Tomorrow i'm going to reconfigure the intercooler piping to be a bit better laid out. Also put on some new Powerstop front rotors and pads. I have the rears ready to go on as well, gonna get on that soon. Oh, also put new hatch struts on:

I removed the clear center tail to reglue one side of the lens, drill some vents in it so it no longer pools up with water, and i'm gonna paint it to match the car.
 

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Been doing some more work on the car. Cleaned up the intake manifold a bit; I've also been replacing any of the little brackets and small stuff with hardware store stainless bolts. I know that some people are fastener snobs, but if it isnt structural, I dont need ARP bolts for everything. I'd rather get rid of the rust. Also relocated the fuse box! Transmission fix is incoming, hopefully will be finished this weekend.
 

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Got to work on the transmission today. Considering it was in a car that was on fire, I think it came out pretty decent. Scraped and cleaned the top of the transmission for a good solid hour before I felt it was clean enough to remove anything without getting a bunch of crud inside the transmission. I've already conceded the fact that there's gonna be a small amount in there, I just gotta hope the filter does its job and we clean everything out we can beforehand. Here's some pics of the progress, the burnt gunk and crud is hard to get off, and there's still some. If I really care I may wire brush it with a drill someday, but for now I just needed to get it clean enough to be installed. Hopefully putting it in tomorrow. I'm using a W4A33-K1FNQ, which is different than what was originally installed. I got the transfer case that goes with it just to be sure. I cant wait to rip the broken trans apart to see why it suddenly decided to slip, and why park doesnt work. If it's electronics I'm gonna be a bit worried, I do have a spare trans but it's another K1FNQ so I dont think the pulse generators are the same on that one.
 

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