Once again, same problem, different solution.

[BlackMount]

So, same problem. Cuts + Misses at 2500-3000 rpms, runs perfectly for the first 5 mins after start up and hauls ass, till it starts to warm up then it just cuts and misses. READ BOLD UNDERLINED POINTS CAREFULLY AND ANSWER THOSE SPECIFIC POINTS part of my problem diagnosing this is people not reading my post thoroughly. No offense.

Things I've tried.

New Spark Plugs
Spark Plug Wires
New MAF
New ECU
Cleaning Injectors
Re-Timed and Dead on.
Different Coil Pack
Different CAS

Other things I've Tried.
Unplug MAF, it just get's worse!

Pulled off my Waste Gate actuator arm, so I couldn't Fill up with boost (and that worked properly) in theory of having fuel cut due to large boost leak I found at my Intake Manifold Flange... Results!

No Boost = Cuts + Misses @ Lower RPMS like 2000 flat So having Boost makes me cut less.... ????

I found out if I'm very light on the throttle, like very tiny amount, it will rev all the way up in Nuetral to 5,000 RPMS.

Some one Explain this. I poof black smoke out of my Exhaust which means I'm running rich...I'm gonna try changing out my Injectors, but 450cc injectors aren't easy to come by and money is Tight....I was thinking about running Open Waste Gate (No Boost At All) and putting some Injectors from a 2.4L 4G64, or N\T 4g63 just because they are plentiful at the junkyards, and just seeing if maybe I have a stuck injector. I would only be using those injectors for diagnosing, and not run with them.

are the Turbo Fuel Pressure Regulators and N\T rated differently? I want to try replacing that also!


HELP

 

[stefanOst]

Does your MAF only have the one honeycomb, or does it still have the second, lower one as well? Removing the lower honeycomb is known to cause weird problems in some, but not all cases.

 

[BlackMount]

its there, The car runs a lot better now, so I'm not in such a big hurry to fix it, which will allow me to take more time to think about what's wrong then speeding for an answer, and always getting the wrong one. I'll just leave that tape there, I mean what's going to do make me run rich? . the MAF still gets plenty of Air flow, Idle is very stable now as well, and dont forget there's still that large port under the honeycomb that allows air in also.


If I think it's harming my car or something I'll remove it, but my car is running better now.

 

[chaggard27]

I would still say there is a problem with injectors since restricting the air flow causes it to have the right afr. More air leans it out which means not enough fuel with stock airflow...i would check the injectors still but at least you are making progress

 

[92_6bolt_1290]

Yes, I'm running 255 lph, and I'm aware that it could be over running my FPR. But I cant afford a stock Pump, no one sells them for decent price, and I'm tired of spending money on fixing it, I want to try replacing my FPR first but no one has answered my question about the N\T FPR, and the Turbo FPR


and no, Cant afford Wideband, or anything....The car USE to run fine with the 255 Fuel Pump, so I don't think the fuel pump itself is the problem, I think it is FPR related but my question is still unanswered. (

Im amazed no one has had this problem on this site and or fixed it.)

yes the turbo and N/T fpr's work differently. for one, are you still running the solenoid for the stock fpr? that solenoid is what allows vacuum or boost to reach the fpr and change the pressure. if you are running your stock fpr then you need to make sure the solenoid is working properly or just get a RISING RATE fpr and set it to around 25 psi for idle(thats what mine is set it with my aeromotive fpr and my rewired 255 pump)

 

[stefanOst]

yes the turbo and N/T fpr's work differently. for one, are you still running the solenoid for the stock fpr? that solenoid is what allows vacuum or boost to reach the fpr and change the pressure. if you are running your stock fpr then you need to make sure the solenoid is working properly or just get a RISING RATE fpr and set it to around 25 psi for idle(thats what mine is set it with my aeromotive fpr and my rewired 255 pump)

That's not quite true, at all. The fuel pressure solenoid this there to allow the ECU to raise the fuel pressure on hot starts. The FPS can be completely bypassed, as it does nothing else to influence how the FPR works.

 

[BlackMount]

I would still say there is a problem with injectors since restricting the air flow causes it to have the right afr. More air leans it out which means not enough fuel with stock airflow...i would check the injectors still but at least you are making progress

Will be trying that this weekend!

yes the turbo and N/T fpr's work differently. for one, are you still running the solenoid for the stock fpr? that solenoid is what allows vacuum or boost to reach the fpr and change the pressure. if you are running your stock fpr then you need to make sure the solenoid is working properly or just get a RISING RATE fpr and set it to around 25 psi for idle(thats what mine is set it with my aeromotive fpr and my rewired 255 pump)

That's not quite true, at all. The fuel pressure solenoid this there to allow the ECU to raise the fuel pressure on hot starts. The FPS can be completely bypassed, as it does nothing else to influence how the FPR works.

Confusing