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My rebuild is done... Now electrical problems

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bpestilence

15+ Year Contributor
271
2
Jul 26, 2004
Pearl City, Hawaii
I know ignition problems have been covered in detail, and I have read all the threads I could find about the problem. But I need a little more info.

My car ran fine before I rebuilt the car. I did not change anything external, only upgraded the internals and cleaned everything up. Now that I am finally ready to take the car off of the jackstands, I tried to fire it up and it was hard to start, finally running poorly and only on cylinders 1 and 4.

So what I have checked. The coilpack checks out, the transistor checks out and switches properly when stimulated by a 1.5v battery. Double checking has shown that cylinders 2 and 3 are in fact not getting spark.

From what I have read, the lost likely problem would be the crank angle sensor or the cam angle sensor. This is a 2g car. But, from the other threads I have read, a bad CAS would either cause no cylinders at all to fire, or either a pair 1 and 2 or 3 and 4 not to fire. On my car 2 and 3 are not firing. This leads me back to the transistor which still checks out.

To be safe I pulled the CAS sensor back out and double-checked the harness. Not crimped or anything. The only thing I found was this wire:

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in the center of the picture, which I don't remember where it goes. Looks like it goes on a single blade connector but I can't seem to find where it goes. I think it also possible that I might have connected the wrong triangle connectors, since there are three over here that are identical. But I don't think any cylinders would fire at all if the CAS or coil connectors were on wrong?

I haven't messed with the cam angle sensor, since the threads seem to say that the cam angle sensor isn't important for the timing of 2g cars. There was one thread, though, that claimed that the crank sensor times two of the cylinders, and the cam sensor times the other two. It was that one thread though.

So my questions: Is what is said in the paragraph above true? If so, which sensor matters for cylinders 2 and 3? Is it possible to somehow put the crank sensor in wrong that might cause this? Is there a convenient way to test the crank sensor? Is it possible that the transistor is bad even though it tested out?
 

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Do a compression and cylinder leak down test. I've seen reused lifters hold the valves open. It only takes one to screw up the mix.
 
There is no CEL... However I cannot say for sure that the CEL even works. The bulb might be removed or burnt out. So I am at a loss there.

The easy way to check this is if the CEL light comes on when the key is turned on it should stay on for about 5 secs. then go off. This tells you that the car is talking to the ecu.
 
I know ignition problems have been covered in detail, and I have read all the threads I could find about the problem. But I need a little more info.

My car ran fine before I rebuilt the car. I did not change anything external, only upgraded the internals and cleaned everything up. Now that I am finally ready to take the car off of the jackstands, I tried to fire it up and it was hard to start, finally running poorly and only on cylinders 1 and 4.

So what I have checked. The coilpack checks out, the transistor checks out and switches properly when stimulated by a 1.5v battery. Double checking has shown that cylinders 2 and 3 are in fact not getting spark.

From what I have read, the lost likely problem would be the crank angle sensor or the cam angle sensor. This is a 2g car. But, from the other threads I have read, a bad CAS would either cause no cylinders at all to fire, or either a pair 1 and 2 or 3 and 4 not to fire. On my car 2 and 3 are not firing. This leads me back to the transistor which still checks out.

To be safe I pulled the CAS sensor back out and double-checked the harness. Not crimped or anything. The only thing I found was this wire:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


in the center of the picture, which I don't remember where it goes. Looks like it goes on a single blade connector but I can't seem to find where it goes. I think it also possible that I might have connected the wrong triangle connectors, since there are three over here that are identical. But I don't think any cylinders would fire at all if the CAS or coil connectors were on wrong?

I haven't messed with the cam angle sensor, since the threads seem to say that the cam angle sensor isn't important for the timing of 2g cars. There was one thread, though, that claimed that the crank sensor times two of the cylinders, and the cam sensor times the other two. It was that one thread though.

So my questions: Is what is said in the paragraph above true? If so, which sensor matters for cylinders 2 and 3? Is it possible to somehow put the crank sensor in wrong that might cause this? Is there a convenient way to test the crank sensor? Is it possible that the transistor is bad even though it tested out?

I would also mount that transistor the correct way! You are not getting a good ground by just letting in sit on you manifold. I have mine mounted on the firewall with no bracket just sand the paint off and dont for get to put some di-electric grease on there too. One more thing to check is make sure your crank sens. is plugged into the right conn. the ac compressor and it have the same connection. I cant remenber if it will still start if they are mixed or not?

And just for shits and giggles put your 2g condensor back on and plug it in bolt it to the intake and see if that helps!

What color are the wires that you have plug into the coil on the wire harr. side?
 

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Success!!!

After all of that troubleshooting, it was the last thing that I knew I was going to have to check that ended up being the ultimate problem.

The fuel injectors were bad. At least one not firing at all, one weak, and the others iffy. I have no idea how the car was able to run good before the rebuild with these old malfunctioning injectors.

I swapped in my Injector Clinic 750cc/min injectors, and it fired right up (albeit pig rich).

Now I just have to figure out why it is idling at 2000 RPM, and fix the sqeaky belt issue, which I have finally figured out; I just have to do something about it. BTW: Never use Unorthodox racing pulleys. The line up like crap. (They came with the car)

So I have to fix those things, and I need to actually wire in my AEM F/IC 8 sand wideband so that I can trim the fuel back down to stock.


Thanks for all the suggestions!
 
Success!!!

After all of that troubleshooting, it was the last thing that I knew I was going to have to check that ended up being the ultimate problem.

The fuel injectors were bad. At least one not firing at all, one weak, and the others iffy. I have no idea how the car was able to run good before the rebuild with these old malfunctioning injectors.

I swapped in my Injector Clinic 750cc/min injectors, and it fired right up (albeit pig rich).

Now I just have to figure out why it is idling at 2000 RPM, and fix the sqeaky belt issue, which I have finally figured out; I just have to do something about it. BTW: Never use Unorthodox racing pulleys. The line up like crap. (They came with the car)

So I have to fix those things, and I need to actually wire in my AEM F/IC 8 sand wideband so that I can trim the fuel back down to stock.


Thanks for all the suggestions!

Try your idle screw on the throttle body.... There is supposedly a special procedure to adjust the screw, so maybe one of the elders will chime in on how to do that. But, I know I cranked mine up before my rebuild and will have to mess with it once the motor is back in. :hmm:

Congrats on finding the major issue! :hellyeah:
 
I installed the F/IC-8, tuned down the injector pulsewidth, and found a small vacuum leak. Now it idles fine again. Also fixed the squaky belts, but that was more of a PITA. Lining up pullies when the brackets themselves are fixed in place...
 
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