The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

2G LC1 Wideband calibration wire?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

YUPOK

Proven Member
397
30
Aug 13, 2013
Riverdale, New Jersey
I just installed a used LC1 wideband with new sensor. Going thru the calibration steps, i held the calibration button for 20 seconds with sensor unplugged. When I go to the next step, sensor plugged in, it just flashes 9 times with a 2 second gap. So error 9 is for low voltage. My battery reads 12.3 volts and checking the pins at the module itself I got 12.2 volts. I saw a note that it had to hold a 3 amp draw but I have it on a 15 amp fuse.

I double checked all my connections, grounds etc. all good.

Is my controller bad?
Is there a way to reset and try calibration again?
Is there a way to test a used wideband controller?

Any help is appreciated.
 
Last edited:
Ok so found the problem there was a bad ground. Easy fix. Now I have another question.

The BLACK calibration wire from the controller is supposed to split, one will go to the push button and the other to the LED then both will ground.

The problem is this will bypass the switch because the LED is always completing the circuit, and therefore will always be lit up.

Is the correct way to go from the calibration wire to the switch then to the LED then ground? This would prevent the LED from being always lit and the function of the switch will complete the circuit.

If I understand the purpose of the calibration wire, when it is grounded it switches to calibration mode. So if it is always grounded, then it will always be in cal mode?
 
no it wont always be in cal mode. the led is probably acting as a logic gate, when the button is pushed, it creates a short to ground and inverts the gate

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Ok that makes sense.

I tried it both ways and was able to calibrate the sensor with the same result. The only difference with my theoretical wiring is that the light does not stay on all the time.

So I think both work fine, I just wired it a little different so that the light only comes on when the button is pushed and when the button is released, the light stays off.

Would you agree or am I wrong on this?
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 4G63 3 inch Magnaflow SS high flow cat
    3 inch Magnaflow stainless cat. High flow. 18.25 inches. Flange holes are 4 1/8 center. Has...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • For sale 4G63 Forge Motorsports BOV
    Original Forge Motorsports bov. Adjustable with over 80 clicks on the dial. Nice to use for...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • Wanted 1g 1991 Black Cherry Eagle Talon
    5-speed
    • bamatalon
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Misc Left Over Parts
    Hello, I have a few left over parts for sale, these do not include shipping, please pm me for a...
    • r3dmak
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc for 4G63 DSM/EVO
    I have a set of Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc high z injectors for DSM/EVO. I am stepping up to...
    • spoolinpos
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top