Launch help

[highvan]

Ok, I have a question for launching my 92 tsi. I read that you go up to 4500rpm and smash the gas as you let out the clutch, but my question is.. do you do this in first gear? Or do you have to shift like hell after the launch?

 

[GSTdude06]

Your just dumping the clutch...you'll wear your tranny fast and break it if your not careful.

Just go out 1 day/night and practice to see whats good for your car.... I dont ever just dumped my clutch but I also never launch at 4500rpms.

 

[jibberishballr]

Your just dumping the clutch...you'll wear your tranny fast and break it if your not careful.

Just go out 1 day/night and practice to see whats good for your car.... I dont ever just dumped my clutch but I also never launch at 4500rpms.

Thats because were fwd and we slip the clutch to launch. AWD's launch better just dumping the clutch...from what ive read. AWD's go through trannys more because of this. Slipping will work but most AWD's dump the clutch. I myself slip from 4500. Its just getting used to the feel to do it. Like GSTdude said go out and practice. Do a search on awd launches and try out some techniques. Good luck!!!

 

[getusum]

I have a 1991 gsx eclipse. Its my first dsm. i bought it today. It has the following mods and bear with me if Im saying this wrong because once again this is my first dsm and turbo car im a former mustang guy. A gm MAF 2. A 14b turbo. A big FMIC. A maf Translator?. A turbo timer and electric boost controler. The guy said it runs 13.01. Im going to race a friend tonight and i want to know how to launch this awd? The clutch and driveline is stock but in good shape. Please help.

 

[girlieracr4g63]

I have both awd and fwd, and I personally dont suggest dumping the clutch in the awd. A slight slip will IMO work out for ya alot better. Also there really isnt a magic RPM for launching. Its varies depending on power, (setup), boost level, tires etc....I recommend starting at 3500 and working your way up. Until you find a smooth yet hard launch without spinning to much and having the car fall on its face (bog).

Just to give an example...in my FWD on slicks of course. I launch anywhere between 6000 and 6500. That just goes to show you. Its all depending on your car and how you drive it.


Good luck!

Wendy

 

[MyBeatGSX]

Not much different than you would launch your Mustang. Just keep in mind that too much clutch on an AWD car doesn't break the tires loose, it just breaks stuff.

Everyone has there own preference, depending on how badly they want their driveline to stay in the car. I bring it up to about 3,500-4,000rpm, then quickly bring the clutch to just beyond the point where it starts to catch until the car starts to roll, I then floor the gas and let the clutch out the rest of the way. It all happens much more smoothly then that and in one motion, but you get the idea.

Find out what works for you, start with a low RPM just to get the clutch feel. Like in any other drive configuration, too much clutch slip will fry the clutch quickly and not enough clutch slip will bog (if your at low rpm) or break something. You have to get it just right. Dispite what all non-AWD owners think, AWD is the most difficult configuration to launch correctly.

 

[keymaster]

Best way to launch is bring the revs up to about 4500 otherwise you'll bog, then bring the clutch out until the car just starts to move then slip it the rest of the way while flooring the gas.

 

[girlieracr4g63]

I suggest limiting your launching with a stock clutch period! However if you decide to do it anyways. I agree with MyBeatGSX, and yes this is coming from someone who owns an awd as well.

Good luck!

Wendy

 

[getusum]

thank god you guys replied i was about to put it on the rev limiter and dump the clutch!! ok ill try that first.. Im racing a 95gt with a kenny bell on it on the street so my only real advatage is traction. but when i put it on 15psi it pulls hard anything after that and it gets fuel cut per the previous owner. I live in bhm,al so if anyone around here would meet me and look at this car and tell me what i have and what i need i would be greatly appr. Im 26yr old and have been racing mustangs forever but they suck and everyone and there sister has one. when i was 14 mom had a laser turbo and thats when i started looving these dsm and i fiannaly got one so i will be needing everones help along the way.

 

[Nighthawk01]

I have both awd and fwd, and I personally dont suggest dumping the clutch in the awd. A slight slip will IMO work out for ya alot better. Also there really isnt a magic RPM for launching. Its varies depending on power, (setup), boost level, tires etc....I recommend starting at 3500 and working your way up. Until you find a smooth yet hard launch without spinning to much and having the car fall on its face (bog).

Just to give an example...in my FWD on slicks of course. I launch anywhere between 6000 and 6500. That just goes to show you. Its all depending on your car and how you drive it.


Good luck!

Wendy

Agreed

 

[MyBeatGSX]

have been racing mustangs forever but they suck and everyone and there sister has one.

AMEN!


Good luck with the race. Keep in mind you want to have the car in operating condition for more than 1 day, don't go too crazy on the boost or the launch. For future reference, just because you aren't fuel cutting doesn't mean you aren't running dangerously lean. Fuel cut is just there to prevent gross overboosting.

 

[getusum]

well i understand a little about tuning from tuning a 2003 cobra at the dyno, ive been reading alot of this site and taking in as mush as I can. Can you tell me what a 14b turbo is and a gm mas? and there is a MAF translator under my hood. what can i do with this stuff?? What kind of data logging device should i get so i can tell if im getting knock or running lean or rich?? what mod should i do next.

 

[oldman]

Im racing a 95gt with a kenny bell on it on the street so my only real advatage is traction.

This is on a track right?

but when i put it on 15psi it pulls hard anything after that and it gets fuel cut per the previous owner.

My suggestion is boost leak test.

 

[DGajre777]

thank god you guys replied i was about to put it on the rev limiter and dump the clutch!! .

Practice launching first and wait 10-15 minutes before doing it again and again to let your car cool down. If you don't, you'll fry your clutch.

Im racing a 95gt with a kenny bell on it on the street so my only real advatage is traction. but when i put it on 15psi it pulls hard anything after that and it gets fuel cut per the previous owner.

Do a boost leak first, if that doesn't help then...

Fuel cut is cessation of fuel delivery and spark generation by the ECU. It is a pre-programmed response designed to save the turbocharger from utter destruction in the event of a catastrophic wastegate malfunction.

How do I prevent fuel cut?
I have [injectors/fuel pump/fuel rail] installed, but I still get fuel cut! Is there a fix?

This question comes up a lot, mostly because people misunderstand what fuel cut is for, and why it occurs at all. For the answer to this, read this chapter of the ECU Primer.

The simple answer is that because fuel cut is pre-programmed into the ECU, there is no method of disabling it. There are no modifications that can do so, aside from an ECU upgrade that eliminates fuel cut. Upgraded fuel pumps, injectors, and fuel pressure regulators do nothing to avoid or eliminate fuel cut. NOTHING.

That being said, there are some methods (some cheap, some not) of postponing fuel cut. All the methods work on one principle: fooling the ECU into thinking there is less air entering the engine than, in fact, there is. This can be done by adding unmetered air, or by changing the sensor inputs used by the ECU to determine air mass. Of course, these methods usually mean the engines run leaner than stock. Again, read this section of the ECU primer for details.

Methods include:
How do I prevent fuel cut?
I have [injectors/fuel pump/fuel rail] installed, but I still get fuel cut! Is there a fix?
Search for this topic now!

This question comes up a lot, mostly because people misunderstand what fuel cut is for, and why it occurs at all. For the answer to this, read this chapter of the ECU Primer.

The simple answer is that because fuel cut is pre-programmed into the ECU, there is no method of disabling it. There are no modifications that can do so, aside from an ECU upgrade that eliminates fuel cut. Upgraded fuel pumps, injectors, and fuel pressure regulators do nothing to avoid or eliminate fuel cut. NOTHING.

That being said, there are some methods (some cheap, some not) of postponing fuel cut. All the methods work on one principle: fooling the ECU into thinking there is less air entering the engine than, in fact, there is. This can be done by adding unmetered air, or by changing the sensor inputs used by the ECU to determine air mass. Of course, these methods usually mean the engines run leaner than stock. Again, read this section of the ECU primer for details.

Methods include:

removing the lower honeycomb from the MAS. See the FAQ Locator (look in the "Intake" section) and Jim McKenna's MAS modification page for more information.
'Gutting' (cutting out) the lower section of the MAS. This modification was first marketed by HKS, improved upon by Roger Hanson, Eric Typpo and Jim McKenna, and recently re-popularized by Al Blaha. This involves cutting out the entire lower section of the MAS - delaying fuel cut, but making the engine run leaner - and altering the intake air temperature sensor to compensate. Mike Jackson also does this - read his information here.
plumbing in a secondary air intake after the MAS. Use extreme caution!
the fuel cut defenser (FCD) by HKS
the dime-store fuel cut defenser (DSFCD) for 1G or 2G. Use appropriate caution.
fuel management computers, like a VPC or PMS. See the Glossary for details.

An ECU upgrade from Technomotive is the only way to really eliminate fuel cut.
Source: www.vfaq.com

Technomotive doesn't make chips anymore, but you can buy them from www.dsmchips.com. If you are using stock injectors and don't plan to upgrade, get the Stage 1 chip which - Stage 1 - $80, Adjust Rev Limit, Eliminate Fuelcut, Octane Value Reset, and Factory Boost gauge conversion. Also, the Check Engine light will come on at 7000 rpm as a Shift Light!. If you plan on getting bigger injectors, get the stage 3 - Stage 3 - $115, Stage 1 & 2 Mods PLUS Special compensation for Fuel Injector Size, Deadtime Compensation, MAS changes / Compensation, Idle speed changes, and Enhanced Closed-loop operation.

You might need to get an SAFC or get the MAFT Gen II which is like an SAFC+MAFT in one unit to fine tune changes made by the chip.
Do I have to use an AFC with my chip?
Generally, yes. Although the changes I make to the Global Fuel and MAS Compensation get VERY close, and make it easier to tune, it is still recommended that you have some tunability, such as an Air-Fuel computer or a GOOD adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator. In addition, every car is different, so you may require more/less fuel depending on your situation Chip FAQ - http://www.dsmchips.com/faqhome.htm

And welcome to DSMs and the world of AWD.

 

[girlieracr4g63]

well i understand a little about tuning from tuning a 2003 cobra at the dyno, ive been reading alot of this site and taking in as mush as I can. Can you tell me what a 14b turbo is and a gm mas? and there is a MAF translator under my hood. what can i do with this stuff?? What kind of data logging device should i get so i can tell if im getting knock or running lean or rich?? what mod should i do next.

The 14b is a great little power house of a turbo, and has ALOT of potential. However it is what comes stock on your car. The Mas and translator is for more airflow, and normally used for additional tuning or to compensate for larger injectors. As far as logging. Just search around. There are several programs to choose from. I find that have an wideband helps greatly. That is something else you need to read up on. As for what Oldman said. I agree build yourself a boost leak tester and check for leaks. In the mean time take it easy on the boost level. Without knowing what exactly you have yet. Or no means of logging. Good luck and welcome!


Wendy

 

[getusum]

he said he tested for and found no boost leaks and no there is an old abandoned 4 lane hwy that is called corder x here that is 4miles of flat straight interstate that was never finished so its goning to be cosidered street tonight. how much boost is safe on a stock internals?

 

[girlieracr4g63]

he said he tested for and found no boost leaks and no there is an old abandoned 4 lane hwy that is called corder x here that is 4miles of flat straight interstate that was never finished so its goning to be cosidered street tonight. how much boost is safe on a stock internals?

Something I learned along time ago was to not always take someones word when you are buying a car. If you are hitting fuel cut at 15 psi there is a reason!

Wendy

 

[eldiabloz13]

well i understand a little about tuning from tuning a 2003 cobra at the dyno, ive been reading alot of this site and taking in as mush as I can. Can you tell me what a 14b turbo is and a gm mas? and there is a MAF translator under my hood. what can i do with this stuff?? What kind of data logging device should i get so i can tell if im getting knock or running lean or rich?? what mod should i do next.

A MAS is a Mass Airflow Sensor. It just takes places of your stock sensor that is usually located on the sornkle of your turbo intake. Its a little restricting so many people covert to the GM MAS. The translater is just needed to make the thing work ya know. Here is a GM MAS set up most people have it for better tuning and airflow measuring but then again people get it for the cool PSHHH sound from the BOV(blow off valve) so instead of it being re-circulated back into the snorkle it can be vented and is louder that way.The 2nd one is the reg 2g mas that comes with the car. Now in this pic is shows how it is being re-circulated. He has a weird set up though so iggnore the BOV at the top. Iv never seen that done and dont see the benifits of it. You can buy a cable from a guy on here called VelocitàPaola. He is also a moderator. He is one cool ass guy very good with eletrical stuff i guess. Then just download some software from www.tunerstein.com its free and use your laptop if you have one. If not get a palm and buy a crappy cable from ebay or have him make one again like i said and find some palm software. I think you should take a little time to get used to teh AWD and make sure everything is alright like they said before. Then if you want to start right away bigger turbo and better fuel set up. Everyone on here loves the EVO III 16g turbos. 550 injectors,190lph fuel pump or even a 255lph, SAFC with the palm or laptop and your all set really. Thats the most commen set up people usually go or strongly consider. Good luck with everything

http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/showimage.php?i=70220&c=503

http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/showimage.php?i=70082&c=503

 

[jibberishballr]

Agreed

I agree that slipping is the better way too. Just all of the awd's i know get good launches from dumping the clutch. However theyll prob go though a transmission in the near future.

 

[cumpersgsx]

you forgot the 4:10 rear end