The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Idling very poor till warmed up

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

GSX95AWD

10+ Year Contributor
53
0
Sep 17, 2012
Villa Rica, Georgia
When cold starting, i have to push the gas all the way down and crank it for around 10 seconds till it starts up, And after that if i let off the gas it'll die. I have to keep my foot on the gas keeping it idling for around 30 seconds or so till it will idle on its own, even then the idles low around 400 rms, very rough. And it does this every time i havent driven the car for 2 or more hours. Once warmed up, it'll idle around 800rpms which is about perfect. Besides that, Very crappy. :hmm::hmm:
 
Dirty oil? Battery? Ground? Spark plugs? God doesn't love dsm's?

That's how my 1g used to be, i had a bad battery, once replaced it turned over right away. Not sure if this helps.
 
Brand new battery in it, Would a bad coolant temp sensor throw a cel or how do i test one? The temp gauge works just fine.
 
I have 0 CEL present, The cars done this since i bought it, New plugs, wires, oil change, header gasket, battery, o2 sensors, new catalytic converter.
 
I had cold start issues with mine at first too and I fixed the intake manifold gasket and at the same time new wires, not sure if a massive boost leak could affect it or if your wires might be mixed up. I have before and after videos on here and that's all I did.
 
Only boost leaks i have are from my stock bov, and the tb shaft seals after the psi gets past 7psi. That shouldnt have any issue to do with cold starting tho..
 
Well if your intake and ECT are OK, could be timing or ECU. If you look at other related threads, its the same ol' list.
 
Well most recently, i can't go past 3k rpm without the car bucking and sputtering. Basically i can't hit boost. I have no major boost leaks. only ones i have are the tb seals past 8psi on a blt. But i'm not even building boost at all. What does that sound like? Fuel cut? When i turn the key on to ACC position, i can't hear the fuel pump turning on like you do in most cars, i hear a slight click sound come from the engine bay area.
 
Thats because the pump doesnt get power until the starter is engaged

Its another one of those "because its a DSM" things. Fuel pump doesn't turn on till there is signal from the CAS.

Inability to build boost could be a leak, MAF or ECU issue.
 
Well most recently, i can't go past 3k rpm without the car bucking and sputtering. Basically i can't hit boost. I have no major boost leaks. only ones i have are the tb seals past 8psi on a blt. But i'm not even building boost at all. What does that sound like? Fuel cut? When i turn the key on to ACC position, i can't hear the fuel pump turning on like you do in most cars, i hear a slight click sound come from the engine bay area.

I just recently got done dealing with an issue of this exact same thing. couldnt go over 3500 RPM. My problem was fixed with buying a new computer. I was pretty stumped for a little bit i went through MAF sensor, IACV, TPS, and unplugged my MAF and the car would run just fine. So needless to say I just ran with an unplugged MAF till i figured out the problem.
 
It's your coolant temp sensor my car did the same thing one of my wires ripped from my connector got a new one and problem fixed

If it is the coolant temp sensor, Which is it? There one that has 1 wire only, and then one that has 2 wires going to it? The intermotor one? My temp gauge on the cluster reads fine, ? And if i need a new ecu, Where can i get one for cheap?

I just recently got done dealing with an issue of this exact same thing. couldnt go over 3500 RPM. My problem was fixed with buying a new computer. I was pretty stumped for a little bit i went through MAF sensor, IACV, TPS, and unplugged my MAF and the car would run just fine. So needless to say I just ran with an unplugged MAF till i figured out the problem.

Wouldn't a bad ecu cause no start at all, or throw a CEL code?
 
Which sensor do i need to replace? There is 2 coolant temp sensors, one is a single lead wire, and one has a 2 pin connector?
 
Can test the resistance of the sensor and compare it to spec and certain temp.check the wires at harness also. Doesn't sound like its a sensor to me cause the PCM is not taking any information from the sensors when it's cold running on start up. It's running in open loop for about 90secs-2 mins..what mods? Cams stock?injectors fouled maybe.
 
Everything is stock on the car. Like today it was 40 degrees out, it took 10 seconds to get started after i floored it while cranking, and after i let off the gas it stalled right away, i had to feather the gas to get it to idle long enough to warm up and for it to idle by itself. After its warmed up, it'll idle smooth at 800 rpms.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top