CanadianTalonTC
10+ Year Contributor
- 582
- 97
- Jul 8, 2011
-
Lethbridge,
AB, Canada
1). Any boost, vac, or exhaust leaks?
No leaks whatsoever at 25PSI
2). Verified mechanical timing?
Yes, twice. Unless I'm utterly out to lunch it's perfect.
3). Verified base timing?
Yes
4). Ignition system
COP or Stock Coil: Stock coil
Wire brand and Age: Stock/unknown
Spark Plug brand, type and Gap: NGK BR7ES .028"
5). Motor health (Compression Test)
Cylinder 1: Brand new build
Cylinder 2: Brand new build
Cylinder 3: Brand new build
Cylinder 4: Brand new build
6). Performed basic throttle body adjustments?
Idle Switch: Integral to TPS in a 2g??
Throttle Cable: Adjusted
TPS: Adjusted to .6275V (the closest I could get. Next it jumps to .6475 in ECUFlash).
BISS: Cannot get vehicle to idle long enough to warm up and adjust it.
7). Compression ratio 9.0 to 1
8). Any known bad sensors or brittle wiring?
No.
9). Any DTC/CEL codes?
No.
10). Electrical system
Car off (not running): 12.6V
Car running: 13.5-13.9V
11). Base fuel pressure and injector values
Base Fuel Pressure: 42PSI (no vac)
Injector Size (cc/min): FIC 850
12). Properly calibrated and configured wideband sensor
Sensor Brand: AEM UEGO
Calibration Date: ?? It has 1 hour of runtime on it.
13). Type of fuel
Type: 91OCT
Percent of Ethanol: up to 10%
14). Watched ECMlink how-to videos? Searched ECUflash and found what I can. No luck.
I have a log attatched as well. I am having trouble getting it warm and such as well. I've included the base tune that a guy made for me too.
Modifications are:
Basically, above 1200ish RPM it runs great as far as I can tell (I can't actually drive it cause of the idle problems) Fuel looks good, it bounces around 14.7 on my wideband. Below, 1200 it pegs lean, idles rough and will idle for about 15 seconds when warm then dies out.
My ISC tested fine, I've adjusted my TPS and throttle cable. Car used to have cruise and has a non cruise cable now. Emmisions are deleted as well as ABS.
I've attempted to adjust my BISS but I can't get the car warm enough/run long enough to perform the procedure so it is at 2 turns from bottomed out with ZERO leaks coming from it or anywhere else for that matter that I can find. I am honestly not sure what exactly you guys need to see for a log either. So just let me know what you want or any information I can give you and I will supply it! It's been nearly 3 years since I've driven this thing, getting close haha.
No leaks whatsoever at 25PSI
2). Verified mechanical timing?
Yes, twice. Unless I'm utterly out to lunch it's perfect.
3). Verified base timing?
Yes
4). Ignition system
COP or Stock Coil: Stock coil
Wire brand and Age: Stock/unknown
Spark Plug brand, type and Gap: NGK BR7ES .028"
5). Motor health (Compression Test)
Cylinder 1: Brand new build
Cylinder 2: Brand new build
Cylinder 3: Brand new build
Cylinder 4: Brand new build
6). Performed basic throttle body adjustments?
Idle Switch: Integral to TPS in a 2g??
Throttle Cable: Adjusted
TPS: Adjusted to .6275V (the closest I could get. Next it jumps to .6475 in ECUFlash).
BISS: Cannot get vehicle to idle long enough to warm up and adjust it.
7). Compression ratio 9.0 to 1
8). Any known bad sensors or brittle wiring?
No.
9). Any DTC/CEL codes?
No.
10). Electrical system
Car off (not running): 12.6V
Car running: 13.5-13.9V
11). Base fuel pressure and injector values
Base Fuel Pressure: 42PSI (no vac)
Injector Size (cc/min): FIC 850
12). Properly calibrated and configured wideband sensor
Sensor Brand: AEM UEGO
Calibration Date: ?? It has 1 hour of runtime on it.
13). Type of fuel
Type: 91OCT
Percent of Ethanol: up to 10%
14). Watched ECMlink how-to videos? Searched ECUflash and found what I can. No luck.
I have a log attatched as well. I am having trouble getting it warm and such as well. I've included the base tune that a guy made for me too.
Modifications are:
Basically, above 1200ish RPM it runs great as far as I can tell (I can't actually drive it cause of the idle problems) Fuel looks good, it bounces around 14.7 on my wideband. Below, 1200 it pegs lean, idles rough and will idle for about 15 seconds when warm then dies out.
My ISC tested fine, I've adjusted my TPS and throttle cable. Car used to have cruise and has a non cruise cable now. Emmisions are deleted as well as ABS.
I've attempted to adjust my BISS but I can't get the car warm enough/run long enough to perform the procedure so it is at 2 turns from bottomed out with ZERO leaks coming from it or anywhere else for that matter that I can find. I am honestly not sure what exactly you guys need to see for a log either. So just let me know what you want or any information I can give you and I will supply it! It's been nearly 3 years since I've driven this thing, getting close haha.
