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Has any one ever converted a obd2 to a obd1?

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rarest_90_DsM

15+ Year Contributor
285
3
Jul 21, 2004
akron, Ohio
Ok so here's the deal i bought a 95 talon the motor went completely to shit i thought it was just the head but the block is toast who ever scattered this motor did a damn good job 1&4 pistons have holes in them the #2 rod is broke bent all the valves and broke 4 off completely! Now i have found a 6 bolt 4g63gte out of a jdm galant vr4 with the dreaded cyclone intake a 16g wiring harness awd tranny tcase and computer for a reasonable price with 40,000 miles on it now my question is has anyone ever converted there obd2 to a obd1 and with how much success i cant imagine it would be that hard the only thing that gets me is the instrument cluster and all the bs in the car! does anyone know if there are two separate harnesses one for the engine bay and one for the cabin pleas let me know ill take any info computer pin outs anything. i plan on using the best parts from both gens like the 2g mas and ex mani and a 1g motor and computer. so what does the 2g have that the 1g doesn't sensor wise and will a 2g tranny work on a 1g computer 5sp of course I'm talking reverse lights and all that good stuff
 
A gentlemen swapped a first gen engine and guts into a second gen at my friends shop. I believe the write up he was using came from vfaq.com. Give that a check. Other wise search this sight and also dsmtalk.com. It has been done before though so there is hope for you. Good luck.
 
Ive always told myself that if i put a 1g motor into a 2g id swap the ecu as well. From my experience the 95's seem the worst to put a 6 bolt in. The timing gets messed up and can be a big pain in the ass. If you decide to use a 1g ecu, most likely you will have to use both ecus at the same time. To my knowledge no one has done it this way on a dsm. My friend did a 4g63 swap into a mirage and used both. Run a 1g engine with a 1g ecu and the rest of the crap with the 2g one. I say its worth a shot.
 
my plan was to run the 1g wiring harness in the engine bay with all the 1g sensors and a 1g ecu then i was going to piggyback the 2g ecu to run my instrument cluster heads tails heater all that good stuff is it possible maybe but has anyone ever done it before?
 
rarest_90_DsM said:
my plan was to run the 1g wiring harness in the engine bay with all the 1g sensors and a 1g ecu then i was going to piggyback the 2g ecu to run my instrument cluster heads tails heater all that good stuff is it possible maybe but has anyone ever done it before?


I really don't see a point to it and I'm sure no one else has either, that's why you aren't going to find a lot of information on doing something like this. The only benefit I can see of the 1G ECU is the battery backup, which to most people is negligible.
 
So you think its a waist of time? do you think it would cure the problems with sticking a complete 1g motor in a 2g car? ive looked at the swap and it seems like no one does the full swap and if so they have problems with timing issues. i really dont want any isusse with the car and i sure in the hell dont want to weld a manifold pressure sensor to the new manifold and well 2g heads are junk! I mean what kind of fuel maps do the 2g run does anyone know?
 
rarest_90_DsM said:
So you think its a waist of time? do you think it would cure the problems with sticking a complete 1g motor in a 2g car? ive looked at the swap and it seems like no one does the full swap and if so they have problems with timing issues. i really dont want any isusse with the car and i sure in the hell dont want to weld a manifold pressure sensor to the new manifold and well 2g heads are junk! I mean what kind of fuel maps do the 2g run does anyone know?


If you look at my profile you will notice my car has a 6 bolt in it. The motor makes no difference, the ECU corresonds to the electronics in the car, use the 2G electronics as everyone else does and there are no problems. What timing issues are you talking about? The MDP just checks for EGR function and can be sourced from any vacuum source on the manifold. Where do you get this information that 2G heads are junk? If they are junk then why has every Evo used 2G style heads with the smaller ports? It can be argued back and forth, each head has its advantages but I bet you'd be hard pressed to see any real world differences on the same car. What do fuel maps have to do with putting a motor into a car?
 
Completely agree ^, I also have a 6-bolt(and 1g head/intake) in my car, and have no issues(aside from the random misfire, but that is taken care of with DSMlink in my case). I don't know where people are getting are the whole timing issues thing, as long as you set your base timing properly and wire up the CAS properly there will be no issue.
 
Spidey said:
I don't know where people are getting are the whole timing issues thing, as long as you set your base timing properly and wire up the CAS properly there will be no issue.
I hate to call you wrong, but you are. Not every case works out just fine. I fought my friends car for MONTHS trying to get that damn thing to work right. ran great til WOT and then wham, -4 timing. It was linked too, nothing helped. In searching for solutions, i found that a lot of other people had the same issue, none which were 2gb's. Id say doing just the motor you have an 85% chance of things being ok
 
DevilSperm said:
I hate to call you wrong, but you are. Not every case works out just fine. I fought my friends car for MONTHS trying to get that damn thing to work right. ran great til WOT and then wham, -4 timing. It was linked too, nothing helped. In searching for solutions, i found that a lot of other people had the same issue, none which were 2gb's. Id say doing just the motor you have an 85% chance of things being ok


Then something else was wrong with the car. I have seen dozens of 6 bolt swaps and I have never heard of any random timing issue. Perhaps a faulty CAS was causing the problem? Did you find the problem or is this just going to be some third party story with no explanation? I'm not saying it didn't happen but it wasn't because of the 6 bolt swap. If things really worry you that much you could always mod the front case the old RRE way to accept the 2G crank sensor and the car would be the exact same as if it had the original 7 bolt in it. Know why people don't do it this way anymore? Because it's a royal pain in the ass and it isn't necessary when a 1G CAS can and will do the job.
 
The ONLY reason to consider swapping everything would be to eliminate the random misfire problem that some 6 bolt 2gs get. Screw that though, just buy dsmlink and fix the misfire code AND tune your car properly.
 
rarest_90_DsM said:
"...now my question is has anyone ever converted there obd2 to a obd1..."
Considering the sheer number of DSM's on the road, I'm sure that someone, somewhere has done it. However, the fact of the matter is that a 6-bolt swap is a pretty common affair these days and there's lots of how-to information on the subject like the aforementioned Magnus and RRE articles. Also, we're not talking Acura Integras, here. Diamond Star Motors actually produced a few EPROM ECU's in '95. So the list of reasons for going through the hassle of converting to OBD I is a very short one.

If the only damage to the car is engine mechanical, I would suggest doing the standard 6-bolt swap and being done with it. No, I'm not saying it's an easy "bolt-on" modification, but there's far more information on that subject and experienced people who can help you than you'll find on OBD conversions. I would also check to see if the ECU in the car is an EPROM, and if so, get 'er chipped for some 550's and then bolt in the 16g. Hell, while you're at it, you could do the basic fuel mods, SAFC (DSMlink if you've got the dough), a pair of sunglasses :cool: and you'd have a pretty nice daily driver.

Personally, I'd sell the Cyclone manifold. Adapting it to work with a DSM is a whole other headache in itself. If you really want to use it, you can make it work. Although, the money you'd make from selling it could be put towards other inexpensive modifications which will net you far more horsepower with less sweat. :laser:
 
Syndicate13 said:
Then something else was wrong with the car. I have seen dozens of 6 bolt swaps and I have never heard of any random timing issue. Perhaps a faulty CAS was causing the problem? Did you find the problem or is this just going to be some third party story with no explanation? I'm not saying it didn't happen but it wasn't because of the 6 bolt swap. If things really worry you that much you could always mod the front case the old RRE way to accept the 2G crank sensor and the car would be the exact same as if it had the original 7 bolt in it. Know why people don't do it this way anymore? Because it's a royal pain in the ass and it isn't necessary when a 1G CAS can and will do the job.

No, we never found the problem, we tried a different CAS, one off one of my cars and it didnt help. The base timing was perfect and we had to have the CAS so far clockwise we had to make a bracket to keep it in place. Nothing ever came of it, he got sick of the car and sold it. On the other hand though, another friend did the same thing and his car runs great. Personally Id still swap ecu's if i ever did it myself. But thats me, and this dude might have no problem doing it like everyone else does.
 
Swap ecu? what do you mean by that? the only reason I'm even putting a motor in the car is cause i planned on selling it from the get! now I'm thinking bout keeping it, i already have a 93 3000gt vr4 and a 90 eclipse gs with a 14b hanging off the front:thumb: i fell in love with the awd. Now if i put it together and is starts throwing the misfire code is there any way to fix it or do i have to run the dsmlink. Also about the cyclone intake i know its a hassle but what are your views on the performance gains I'm thinking minimal Ive heard like 40ftlbs but thats questionable. I know my way around a 1g very well but these 2g i know nothing about thats really why i wanted to swap everything so i don't have to mess with the timing or the misfire codes or any other issues i'm gonna have, I'm gonna be pissed if i put a 6bolt in this car and its all F&*$ed up and i have to piss with it every time i want to drive it. also what size injectors are in a 2g? Can i get away with a small 16g on stock injectors on a 2g? or should i switch to a 1g rail and injectors. Also what do they mean by the 2g runs a INVERTED cas signal?
 
DevilSperm said:
No, we never found the problem, we tried a different CAS, one off one of my cars and it didnt help. The base timing was perfect and we had to have the CAS so far clockwise we had to make a bracket to keep it in place. Nothing ever came of it, he got sick of the car and sold it. On the other hand though, another friend did the same thing and his car runs great. Personally Id still swap ecu's if i ever did it myself. But thats me, and this dude might have no problem doing it like everyone else does.

I had a buddy do the same thing. His problem ended up being the spacer on the crank pully was at 2 o'clock when it should have been at 10 o'clock. The marks were perfect but that tiny spacer was put on backwards. His car ran fine (relatively) until WOT when the thing went flat on it's face with weird low timing values.
 
TimG said:
I had a buddy do the same thing. His problem ended up being the spacer on the crank pully was at 2 o'clock when it should have been at 10 o'clock. The marks were perfect but that tiny spacer was put on backwards. His car ran fine (relatively) until WOT when the thing went flat on it's face with weird low timing values.

I thought of that a few months after he got rid of it. I suppose thats very possible it was on wrong, hell ive done it beforeOMG
 
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