GT-14 to big for FWD?

[SpoOLxExO]

yeah, forget abou tthe 7-bolt idea. Grab a 6-bolt form a junkyard or a old 1g, throw some forged pistons in it, Mitsubishi everything else and you'll be good!

Another good point was made that I wanna bring up. No matter what turbo you decide to go with, you want to be considering upgrading the suspention, and getting the stickiest street tires you can find.

These components are often overlooked when it comes to making big power with a FWD.

Happy boostin!

 

[92GSXBaltimore]

i would try to fix your problem with your current setup before you just go and decide to throw more money at it. Seems like you need a good tune. I still dont understand what the whole craze is about the stroker motors. People sometimes forget that there have been plenty of people running well over 600whp on a 2.0L setup.

 

[BenHenthorn]

Should i just do that or spend a few extra and stroke it? i'm torn.

I read on Shep's website (The guy who ran 8.13 sec. in the 1/4) that his 1000 HP (est) Talon runs a 2.0L motor. I think you're underestimating the 6-bolt 2.0L block, you can make tons of power and it's way more reliable than a stroker.

If you want to keep it as a daily driver don't stroke it, but in the end it's all up to you. But please do lots of research before you do anything expensive like that, you'll hate yourself if you break $8K+ worth of motor and parts.

2 more cents.

 

[GPTourer]

The thing that appeals to me about a stroker, is the ability to spool a bigger turbo on the street on pump gas. I do realize someone can make more power at higher revs and possibly keep the engine together better with a 2.0L, but that is in a drag only application where you launch at high RPMS and keep it at high RPMs.

A 2.4L will make 2000-4500 RPMs more fun on boost, and more livable off boost if you have some big wheel that doesn't spool at part throttle while you are just tooling about.

 

[shleppy]

I agree, you don't need the stroker. However a 6 bolt motor would be a great idea, the 1g head alone flows around 4 lbs more air than the 2g. Add 650's, dsmlink, cams and 24psi with a good tune and a lsd so you can put the power down and you should be in the 11's with an evo3 turbo. You can also simply do it with your 7 bolt, a 50 trim for more lag, 650/750's, 255 pump, afpr, dsmlink, a lsd and a good tune-it's alot cheaper too. Either way should work for you, but you have to remember it's not the turbo that gives you horsepower; it's the combination with good tuning. Thats why there's so many guys whining about making 280whp with evo3 turbos and 310 whp with 50trims. Good luck with your decision.

 

[DSM Ghost]

Well I just tell you like this, I have a AWD 2g with a built motor and a GT-14 and it spools just a hair less the a PTE-50trim but makes hard pulling power up to 8500rpm (thats what I have my rev set to)

But I had SBR EVO III 16g ported and clipped on my car before and I made 340hp at 22psi with a good tune. So you can do it with a evo III but if you want to make good power I would put a 50trim on it and call it good.


I also have a FWD 2g with a BR-57 with Nitto 555R and a 6bolt swap all the way. So if you need to work on the block then just spend the money and do a 2.0 and build it to make the RPM to handle a nice size turbo so you can make the diff on the top end. With high airflow numbers and high RPM, you have the gear to do it so use it



Got ?'s just ask

 

[GPTourer]

Thats why there's so many guys whining about making 280whp with evo3 turbos and 310 whp with 50trims.

I have a great tune on my car, probably as good as possible with a SAFC2. But if I can only get 16psi at redline, 280whp is nothing to whine about. The 34mm flapper is the problem.

The 1G head may flow more at peak RPMs, but the 2G head is designed for better midrange response. The amount of lag that is tolerable, plus the lack of traction a FWD car has is being blown out of proportion a bit. He can go for max power on with mucho lag to run cars down on the strip with something like a 1G head, built two liter, and the GT-14 or 60-1 or whatever, but on the street at low boost (~20 psi) on pump, that car probably won't produce much more usable power then an EvoIII powered car and will cost much more to build.

 

[Red97Eclipseboy]

Haha, now everyone is confused.

Red97eclipseboy was saying that a small turbo like the EVOIII can be laggier (Good for FWD) when cams and a big FMIC are introduced into the equasion.

He(red97eclipseboy) happens to have this combo and likes it. But not suggesting that the original thread starter (DSMhelix) has cams, or should get them. Just giving experiences.

Yup, you got it! Sorry I wasn't clear as I should have been. Also, like GPtourer said, with good suspension and all that, FWD can be delt with. It all depends on what your focus is. Mine was to build power in the ladder part of my rpms and keep it all up top. Also, my LSD, prothanes and suspension setup help a lot!

 

[shleppy]

I have a great tune on my car, probably as good as possible with a SAFC2. But if I can only get 16psi at redline, 280whp is nothing to whine about. The 34mm flapper is the problem.

The 1G head may flow more at peak RPMs, but the 2G head is designed for better midrange response. The amount of lag that is tolerable, plus the lack of traction a FWD car has is being blown out of proportion a bit. He can go for max power on with mucho lag to run cars down on the strip with something like a 1G head, built two liter, and the GT-14 or 60-1 or whatever, but on the street at low boost (~20 psi) on pump, that car probably won't produce much more usable power then an EvoIII powered car and will cost much more to build.

280 whp is nothing to whine about at only 16psi, but what about all the guys running 20+ psi with the same or less hp and with more mods then you have? Its nothing personal, but there are just alot of guys here who are pulling really poor dyno numbers with proven turbos because they are missing a few mods to make a effective combination. I too had the 34mm flapper, and I ran my car on 93 octane and 24 psi by 3100 daily driven, internally gated straight from slowboy. Yes-you had problems with the 34mm flapper, but not everyone has. Don't make the mistake of assuming that because the internally gated 34mm flapper didn't work for you it dosen't work for everyone. If I was limited to only 16 psi after spending all the money I had spent to make great power with my evo3, then I would've been both really pissed, and found a solution to the problem. In addition, everyone says the 1g head is a slow spooling top end/dyno queen compared to the 2g head, but how many have tried both? I have. Yes the 2g head spooled the turbo a little faster-maybe 200 rpm, but when your talking about a 200rpm difference in spool-up in a motor that revs as quickly as the 4g63, it really dosent make much of a difference in drivability. It might only be .2 seconds slower spooling for an additional 40 extra horses. He can make 360whp with the evo3 turbo, but he can also make it with a 50trim cheaper and have 800 rpm slower spool that he desires at the same time. It all depends on what a persons goals are-and these are his.

 

[GPTourer]

280 whp is nothing to whine about at only 16psi, but what about all the guys running 20+ psi with the same or less hp and with more mods then you have? Its nothing personal

Since none of those guys are in this thread, nor were they named - I thought you were directing those comments at me. No worries.

Yes-you had problems with the 34mm flapper, but not everyone has. Don't make the mistake of assuming that because the internally gated 34mm flapper didn't work for you it dosen't work for everyone.

Where did I say everyone? I merely pointed it out to the original poster that I believed it was his problem and that he look into it before he goes blowing a wad of cash on a monster turbo setup for a meager hp goal that his current setup should be capable of.

He can make 360whp with the evo3 turbo, but he can also make it with a 50trim cheaper and have 800 rpm slower spool that he desires at the same time.

I don't see how. The same supporting mods you need to make a EvoIII perform that well, you need for a 50trim. I'm not saying that a 50trim can't do it, but how can it be cheaper?

In addition, everyone says the 1g head is a slow spooling top end/dyno queen compared to the 2g head, but how many have tried both? I have. Yes the 2g head spooled the turbo a little faster-maybe 200 rpm, but when your talking about a 200rpm difference in spool-up in a motor that revs as quickly as the 4g63, it really dosent make much of a difference in drivability.

Okay, you got me. I've never tried a 1G head on my 2G, but I haven't tried a lot of things either. I would rather fix what is obvious (and cheaper) first before moving on to something more drastic.

 

[shleppy]

Thats cool-were all posting here to learn and I know I still have a long way to go. Sorry to make the assumption that you meant all 34mm internal gates failed. I'm just thinking the 50 trim route would be cheaper because to make big power with the evo3 he will need to go 1g head and cams-thats how slowboy, the vr4 guy(413whp), shape and I did it. With the 50 trim he can make the same power without the 6 bolt head and cams, and just do a straight trade for the turbo-thats how I did it. All the other mods would be the same for either turbo. Don't get me wrong-I loved my evo3 turbo, but traction wasn't an issue for me. On a fwd car trying to get good track times where the owner isn't worried about quick spool and drivability I think the 50trim would do a better job of meeting his goals. Either one can get his car in the 11's but I think the 50trim would be cheaper.