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Finally found a AWD Turbo!!!

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Streetwize

15+ Year Contributor
30
0
Jun 14, 2004
Charlotte, North Carolina
:thumb:
Well after 2 months of searching, I got my AWD Turbo! Almost settled for a turbo auto, Almost settled for a N/T 5 speed, found this one coming back from looking at another one.

It's a 93 Eclipse GSX White black leather 99 k miles 5 speed, a virgin in white.

No mods, open the valve cover and there's not a spec of dirt, seats are worn but not ripped, undercarriage looks nice it just desperately needs a new clutch.

Spent about 2 hours cleaning everything. Typically the black trim arounf the windows and under the wipers is faded, what's the best paint?

I need to find body moulding clips, weatherstrip clips etc, any ideas where to find them?

Very Happy right now, best $2550 I've ever spent....so far :D

Like I said, I ain't exactly a Newbie :cool: the other cars in my garage both run 10.90's (70 Charger R/T 620 hp 508" 440 stroker and a 427" 511hp Shelby Cobra Replica). Been playing with cars (mostly Mopars) and bikes for 24 years.
 
Streetwize said:
:thumb:
Well after 2 months of searching, I got my AWD Turbo! Almost settled for a turbo auto, Almost settled for a N/T 5 speed, found this one coming back from looking at another one.

It's a 93 Eclipse GSX White black leather 99 k miles 5 speed, a virgin in white.

No mods, open the valve cover and there's not a spec of dirt, seats are worn but not ripped, undercarriage looks nice it just desperately needs a new clutch.

Spent about 2 hours cleaning everything. Typically the black trim arounf the windows and under the wipers is faded, what's the best paint?

I need to find body moulding clips, weatherstrip clips etc, any ideas where to find them?

Very Happy right now, best $2550 I've ever spent....so far :D

Like I said, I ain't exactly a Newbie :cool: the other cars in my garage both run 10.90's (70 Charger R/T 620 hp 508" 440 stroker and a 427" 511hp Shelby Cobra Replica). Been playing with cars (mostly Mopars) and bikes for 24 years.

Congrats, thats awesome mileage.
 
junk yards are the best place for clips...I might get there this weekend and can pick you a few up (probably like 5 bucks for them at the counter there)...but that is if i make it.

Call around and find a pull a part place there and just get some :D.

Congrats on the nice car...and the GSX too. Check the crank for endplay (it has a 7 bolt in it) while you have the tranny out for the clutch. Also check the x-fer case for leaking.

If you ever need anything let me know....it will only cost you some time at the wheel of the shelby ;)
 
Crank,

Thanks,

Yeah I have a spare 6 bolt 83K miles coming, I'm just wondering where the difference in the block is that makes the 7 more suseptable to crank walk. In big HP V-8's it's usually the heavy dump clutch loads that wear the Thrust bearing and the harmonics transmitted into the main caps.

Did they weaken the block webbing or something else to the 7 bolt casting? somtimes as a cost saving measure companies take some "unneeded" :rolleyes: mass out of the block.

7 bolts have lighter 9probably weaker) factory rods but I'm curious why Eagle lists different steel rods for both the 6 and 7, Are they matched to the factory weight? I figured anybody building a motor would opt for the lightest rod of equal strength (IE, 7 bolt if they are in fact lighter).

Is the crank material the same for both blocks? Crank flexing can also be a big contributor to (we old schoolers call it 'cap' walk, actually the crank stays more or less the same and the damage usually reflects in the bearings and caps).

A lot to learn about these motors but once I figure out what they want.....look out!! ;)
 
Streetwize said:
Did they weaken the block webbing or something else to the 7 bolt casting? somtimes as a cost saving measure companies take some "unneeded" :rolleyes: mass out of the block.
You're pretty much on the trail, from what I've been able to find out.
Is the crank material the same for both blocks?
So far as I know, yes.
Crank flexing can also be a big contributor to (we old schoolers call it 'cap' walk, actually the crank stays more or less the same and the damage usually reflects in the bearings and caps).
At last, someone with a clue. Have you been buying vowels from Vanna?
A lot to learn about these motors but once I figure out what they want.....look out!! ;)
Keep us apprised of your studies. I have an uncanny faith in you.
 
Hey Defiant!

Thanks for the props!

Need your opinion, since I have this 83K 6 bolt motor with a 36K tranny and Transfer case with a new clutch in it already, do you think I should just swap in the whole thing, I'd almost just as soon do a whole motor swap as change a clutch, this way I don't really need to tear anything apart.

Are there any 6 bolt/7 bolt 'quirks' that prevent this from being a direct bolt in? I'm assuming (exhaust, mounting points, sensor positions, etc) everything lines up. The other nice thing is I could change the water pump and timing belt before dropping it in.

The 7 bolt looks like it was really well cared for, it sure runs better with the new set of NGK's I just put in it (had bosch platinums) It looks like somebody had just replaced the valve cover gasket, they got fresh oil down the #3 plug tube, when I pulled the plug it all ran down the threads and scared the crap out of me! But, it was obviously oil in the tube because it was clean unburnt oil and it for sure wasn't running on 3 cylinders.

So how quickly can an AWD clutch be changed in the hands of an experienced mechanic? I have air tools and a lift in my garage.

As for crank walk, yeah I've seen it in a lot of different motors, especially those with 2 stage nitrous and Blowers (I used to crew on a 6.7 second 210mph IHRA Top Sportsman car.) It's really the crank hammering the block forcing the webbing to distort, if the 7 bolt is weaker the thrust bearing is probably wearing prematurely and then "it's on" from there. Staking the caps helps, studs help and a full main cap girdle really helps. But if the block is weak it's not gonna make the big power, it'll eventually loose seal and find a way to break itself. With weak blocks you can really only build them to just below the point of their limits, build for torque because High rpm power really increases the stresses.
 
Picked up my spare 6 bolt turbo motor (9-91 build date), motor only had 76K, not 83K and he had all the service records for the past 10 years. Got the whole motor with a ported 14B, 36K mile trans & transfer case, (only 6k miles on the clutch and timing belt), a reprogrammed ECU (20psi) a spare intercooler and a 6 disc OEM CD/cassette.

How long does a complete motor swap take? First time for a DSM but I've swapped literally dozens of motors of all types.
 
Streetwize said:
Picked up my spare 6 bolt turbo motor (9-91 build date), motor only had 76K, not 83K and he had all the service records for the past 10 years. Got the whole motor with a ported 14B, 36K mile trans & transfer case, (only 6k miles on the clutch and timing belt), a reprogrammed ECU (20psi) a spare intercooler and a 6 disc OEM CD/cassette.

How long does a complete motor swap take? First time for a DSM but I've swapped literally dozens of motors of all types.

It depends on if you have everything. I kept running into snags with needing to buy gaskets from the dealer and more problems like that, so it took more a good 3 weeks just to get the engine in. But, if you're good, you should be able to do it in 2 to 3 days at the most. Especially if you're just changing the water pump (don't forget to check the belts while you have everything off), it shouldn't take you very long.
 
Streetwize said:
Need your opinion, since I have this 83K 6 bolt motor with a 36K tranny and Transfer case with a new clutch in it already, do you think I should just swap in the whole thing, I'd almost just as soon do a whole motor swap as change a clutch, this way I don't really need to tear anything apart.
It's going to hinge a lot on what your intentions with the car are. I drive a little hard, mostly just too fast through the corners. I might try to get an extra 20-30 hp out of the engine, so I'm just driving the stock setup until it dies. Your direction will depend on your intention.
 
does anybody find it crazy that when big time domestic/big block guys want turbo, that they go with a DSM?

another guy i know has a nova and also just bought a white 91 GSX with 120k. not that this is a bad thing, its a great thing. i bet lots of advances could be made if we used big block theories in our little engines.
 
If it is running fine now, there's no way that I'd swap the engine. But then again, I'm a cheap skate. From what I understand the 7 bolts in the 1g's are better for some reason. I think the 2g guys only have problems with their 7 bolts.
 
92GSXman said:
If it is running fine now, there's no way that I'd swap the engine. But then again, I'm a cheap skate. From what I understand the 7 bolts in the 1g's are better for some reason. I think the 2g guys only have problems with their 7 bolts.

Guess I'll keep the motor in there, it's just that changing the clutch looks like about as much work as changing the motor! The new motor has less miles, 6K miles on the belts and clutch and a tweaked turbo, By the time I matched what was already assembled I'd have as much work in it as a swap! :cry:
 
well everyone seems to have said something... and I am always a step behind... so i guess all i can say is....

Happy driving and welcome to the club. :thumb:
 
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