Brake replacement help

[GregHaz]

I am going to be replacing the rear brake components on my 90' GSX. I am having a lot of problems removing the parking brake cables. Is there a special tool or method of getting those things loose or are the things being really tight the reason for the horrible noise my car makes when I am backing up. I assumed because the pads are almost warn down to nothing and the fact that the previous owner didn't take that good of care of the car that the grinding/groaning noise was a problem with the pads rotors and calipers. If I can get these brakes redone and put a new front end on the car I might finally be able to cruise around this summer. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Greg

 

[GriffZero]

Why are you removing the parking brake cables? You shouldn't have to. I had some loud squealing type sound when I would back up. Turned out to be the rotors. They were all rusted. I replaced them with some powerslot rotors and dropped in some new pads and the problem is gone. You don't need to undo the parking brake cable to fix this.

You will however, need a special tool to compress the rear caliper pistons. If you don't have the tool and you don't know that you need it, you will end up cursing up a storm trying to figure out how to compress the pistons! It's not fun! Anyway, you can get it at Shucks or any auto store. The one I got from Shucks looks like a little metal cube with different pegs on it. Just ask someone at the store, they should know. I think it was about six to eight bucks and you use it with a ratchet.

Unbolt the caliper and you have to kind of swing it up and off the rotor. It is a pain, but just mess with it and it will go. Just pull the rotor to get it off. If it won't budge here's the trick! Take the long bolt that was holding the caliper on (the one you just removed) and start screwing it into the hole on the rotor (the hole is near the center). The bolt fits perfectly in there. Just keep tightening it and the rotor will pop right off. Very easy!!! Lots of people have problems with getting the rotor off, but just do that and you will breathe a sigh of relief at how easy it is.

Once that's done drop in the new rotor and replace the pads. Use some of that brake spray lubricant stuff on the back of the pads. It helps to have an extra set of hands to help putting the caliper with the pads back on. You will need to compress the piston at this step too. And that's it! Bolt everything back on and you are set.

If you really need to remove the rear brake cable you can use a pair of pliers to pull out the cable. There is a little brass (brass in color anyway) metal cylinder that holds the cable onto the lever near the caliper (the lever that closes the brakes). You need to get that cylinder out of the lever to release it. Make sure you release the e-brake too, or it will be really tough. You will need to use some muscle to pull with the pliers on the end of the cable, but it's not too tough. Getting it back into the lever however, is a big pain. So only remove it if you really really need too.

That's all I got, hope it helps. Sorry if it was too long.

 

[GregHaz]

Thanks for the info. I am going to replace the calipers too, because the seals on the pistons are rotted out and I am just trying to get everything in the best condition before I start to do fun stuff to the car. I guess I will have to use more muscle as you said to get those cables loose. I am glad to hear someone else had weird noise from the rear of there car and that something simple fixed it.

 

[4UH8ERS]

the tool hes referring too is probably a c-clamp which you can get at practically any hardware store. If you already have the brakes apart and can't get to the hardware store just use the handle of a 1/2" drive put it in the caliper with the bottom of the handle against the pistonand push down like your trying to pry something that piston will compress i do that all the time. goodluck

 

[GriffZero]

No, I'm not referring to a C-clamp. I have tried a C-clamp, trust me, it won't work at all! Don't give yourself a headache and just get the six dollar tool. A friend and I wasted a good two hours trying to get a c-clamp to push down the pistons until we finally realized we need the tool. Lots of cursing.

The c-clamp works for the fronts, no problem (although you can just use your hands and some muscle), but with the rears you need to screw in the pistons. They have a little indented area that is shaped sort of like a "V". There are two of them with the point of the "V" aimed towards the center of the piston. You need to have the special piston compressing tool (which I mentioned above, it's a metal cube you can get at shucks or any auto store I would imagine) to lock into the "V"s and then ratchet down the piston. The piston compression tool has six sides, each side has a different pattern for different types of pistons.

 

[FlashBurn]

He's right, the rears require a special tool to compress the pistons. They twist when they move. However when I did my brake job I didn't have to purchase the tool to compress the pistons. Autozone had a kit that they lend out for a deposit of 30 dollars or so, and it worked great for me.

Check that out.

 

[prplhz96]

Needle nose pliers work fine. The tool is the "right" way to compress the caliper, but the good ol' needle noses always worked for me. As far as your pb cables, just pry the return spring, and pop the cable loose. Where you are stuck probably is where the cable is in the bracket. Just remove the clip on the rear of bracket and use some persuasion to pull it towards the front of the vehicle. A pair of channel locks and some twisting will do the trick. When you replace the calipers make sure to get new hardware, the pins most always get rusty and cause lots of grief on the 1g's. BTW loaded calipers will make your life a little easier and cheaper.

 

[MG200]

Needle nose pliers are what I use to. Just push and twist.