Bad TOB? Air in lines?

[Lofty]

Alright guys, question time.
So I just replaced my Master and slave for the clutch not too long ago.
Although I didn't bleed it enough times, so air may be in the system, but the pedal isn't mushy.
So now it's grinding in first (Bad syncro, but doesn't do it when I have the system fully bled).
So now I started it in first gear so I wouldnt have to shift into it and eliminate the grind, well the starter sounded horrible. Ugh. Like it was slipping.
I'm scared my TOB is going bad.
I'm gonna bleed it, but can you guys just tell me what could be going on?

 

[No_Skillz]

You're prepping to bail on a liferaft before you've found the leak in the boat. Check your master and slave pistons for signs of leak, do your bleed. Anything I can make up using the sparse facts you've given me would just scare the crap out of you... remember last time? It'll probably turn out to be something equally dumb.

 

[thatblondechik]

Just food for thought, when my TOB started going out, at first it just made a nasty whining noise. I drove it still (bad idea BTW) and one day it just refused to go into 1st gear, I'd have to start out in 2nd. Eventually it got so bad that it wouldn't go into any gear at all and to make the car move it had to be shut off, put into gear, then started...and you only had the ONE gear.

I'd recommend eliminating that as a possibility before driving it too much. When we finally took my tranny down, that TOB had chewed through my clutch, pressure plate, and effed up my flywheel. Not to mention the carnage I found after I found that small hole in the bell-housing...into the gears.

Definetly. Rule out the TOB before you drive too much.

 

[Lofty]

Bled the clutch, one tiny bubble came out.

Now onto a different problem.
My starter sounds like shit, like grinding as I go to start my car to move it into my garage,
And it still grinds when it wants to go into gear.
So I eliminated the air problem, the slave rod is moving the clutch enough it seeems like.
So my starter sounds horrible, and it grinds in gears.
The tranny is tight on the mounting bolts.
Wtf do I do, I'm scared guys.
Please help.

 

[turbobluers]

I may be confused, but you said the starter was slipping when trying to start? Clutch depressed, i'm assuming. Was the car trying to lug forward while cranking like the clutch was not disengaging, or did the starter never even engage on the flywheel. If I am confused, let me know.

 

[92AWDHX40]

If it is bad get a oem one, they hold up better than my act one. Dont drive if it gets too bad, youll have bigger problems.

 

[turbobluers]

Also, I am asuming the grinding going into gears is from the tranny? Like clutch is not disengaging? Check your pedal. Push it down and release. use your toe to pull the pedal back towards you. does it move at all?

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

I'm kind of sketchy on the situation you are having with the starter. It will start the car just fine? But then it stays engaged and hits the flywheel when you shift? The way the starter works is that the gear that turns the flywheel extends and retracts by the starter solenoid if the solenoid is stuck then it will be engaged all the time (not good). If it retracts then it's not the starter and could be the TOB making loud and crazy noises. When my ACT TOB went south all I heard at idle was a light chirping noise and when I put some pressure on the clutch pedal it went away. I said "nope" and yanked the trans out and put an OEM TOB in it. Lots better now!!

 

[turbobluers]

I'm kind of sketchy on the situation you are having with the starter. It will start the car just fine? But then it stays engaged and hits the flywheel when you shift? The way the starter works is that the gear that turns the flywheel extends and retracts by the starter solenoid if the solenoid is stuck then it will be engaged all the time (not good). If it retracts then it's not the starter and could be the TOB making loud and crazy noises. When my ACT TOB went south all I heard at idle was a light chirping noise and when I put some pressure on the clutch pedal it went away. I said "nope" and yanked the trans out and put an OEM TOB in it. Lots better now!!

x2 on the act tob... only mine went "wrreeeeeeeeeericketch" until I hit the pedal.

 

[Lofty]

Alright guys, here's the deal.
Starter sounds really funky.
It sounds like this
YouTube - Jerry's Bad Starter
But it still starts.
Might I add it JUST started doing this as I went to start it to pull it into the garage, but once its started, no problems with the starter.
Then, it grinds in 1st and reverse, and it did this before when I was having clutch problems but this grind feels way more worse.
I did hear A chirp when it first started, but that was it. Might have been the belts.
No weird noses [that I can hear] while pushing in the clutch.
It's so crazy, this all happened overnight.
The grinding slowly got progressively worse, and the pedal started engaging closer to the floor, but that's it.
Please help me out guys, the previous owner was a hack job, he installed the clutch and the tranny himself.......
So are the flywheel bolts loose? Clutch not moving far enough? What's going on?
I'm so sick of DSMs.
Might I add I replaced alt 1 week ago, car died.
Then 2 weeks ago replaced the slave and master.
It all worked fine until now.
Oh by the way, this is my one and only DD, so I'm having a panic attack right now, fun.

 

[turbobluers]

Ok,
1. Starter, if slipping could either be actuator not engaging the whole way. If so, marginal starter, or bad starter gear. OR could be a few missing teeth on flywheel. Not entirely sure it could be related to other problems...

2. Clutch sounds like it is grabbing when it shouldn't be, not releasing fully when it should, etc. How many miles are on the new clutch? Maybe the flyweel was worn, not stepped correctly when new clutch installed.

3. Did you check your pedal? 1gs are notorious for worn clutch pedals. on my 92 talon the weld broke holding the clutch pedal to the "rod" and I got around 2 inches of upwards travel after clutch had returned to "engaged" position. If this is the case, your pedal is not allowing the clutch to fully disengage.

4. I know it is redundant, but bleed it again. Do a search on here and find the best way. It has been discussed at length and I am sure you will get many opinions on which is best. These cars are notorious for being a real bugger to bleed. Also, I don't remember from earlier if you had already installed a braided clutch line, but may I recommend you do it. Replacing my old rubber hose did untold wonders for mine.

5. Oh yeah, and bleed it again

6. It COULD be a TOB going, but I would think you would have had some serious noise before any problems started to manifest themselves.

7. If clutch was not aligned correctly, or was abused, i have had the springs break out of the clutch disk. For me, this usually took away all clutching ability and locked the car in gear while running.

Sorry I don't have the magic band aid, but that's where I would start. Try the easy stuff first, as some of the later ideas would most likely require removing the tranny.

Good luck and don't give up on the DSM. They reward those who, well. nevermind... .

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

7. If clutch was not aligned correctly, or was abused, i have had the springs break out of the clutch disk. For me, this usually took away all clutching ability and locked the car in gear while running.

This is totally possible. With how cheap companies are manufacturing clutches these days disc failure is on the rise. ACT had to redesign their street disc because of this. Also, I've been reading about the Fidanza clutches and it seems their 3.2 4 puck disc seems to pop the springs as well.