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advice on current setup - wiseman question

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Originally posted by forbiddeneffect
hey james i talked to them monday and they said they are on back order and will get some in this week.

yeah, but thats what ive been hearing for almost 3 weeks now. this is bullshit as far as im concerned. i personally don't think companies should be allowed to sell a product that they dont have in stock.

James
 
Siue, you have to ditch that craptech regulator. That thing will not help you in the upper boost levels. Don't worry about the head right now, worry about the fuel. You won't need the head done for quite a while. That stage 3 clutch is not going to handle the power you are looking to throw at it either. If your looking to run 15psi it prolly won't last too long, so I would be prepared to replace it. As far as howell goes, they are sometimes waiting on parts, they are still trying to re stock from a very busy winter season, the manfactures are also trying to catch up...
 
"Stage 3 can't hold over 300hp, according to CM and according to me

I know this because it slipped like a little ####ing bi*** last night. I also had one of my stage 4's go at about 13k and another go at 10k. I don't think I am a very good example though because I like to abuse it, especially w/ the Quaife and 20+psi

I went to the non-modular clutch so I only need to replace the disk @ ~250 a disk vs. 600.00 for the new modular.

The Stage 4 only has 4 pucks and they really aren’t all that big so they really don’t have a long life vs. stocks ~60-100K+ miles.

The life of the clutch is all going to depend on how you drive your car and what kind of power you are putting on it. A stage 4 clutch on a basic bolt on low boost car will last a lot longer than a higher HP car.

My new unfortunate opinion is that for a stage 4 car you need stage 4 clutch and no lower. I can’t even spin the tires in second and third w/ the stage 3 clutch just sky high rpms and no speed."


See the whole thread here: http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?...ic_id=46319&mesg_id=46319&listing_type=search


His stage 3 started to slip at 13psi and he also has the Hahn kit. He went from stage 4 to 3 to save some money and see if it would hold, but it did not. Later in the thread Brian says this:

"I can only speak for my self and what conclusions I have made. I feel that if you are producing higher HP numbers 300+ you need the stage 4. It will hold all my power and NEVER slip under that power until it dies. When my last stage 4 went it was still holding 4k drops but would slip during normal driving?

I tried the stage down (on the car right now) and it slips at ~13 psi in second and third. I also had it slip at 20psi in fourth. This is a new clutch and fully broken in.

So it's either the material or the clamp load that isn't up to holding the hp.

My recommendation is above 15 psi w/ every bolt-on known to man get a stage 4. They dont have a long life (on my car) but they hold all till the very end."


I'm not telling you that it is impossible, I would try it if I were you, I'm just saying be prepared for it to slip on you and not hold your boost very well. I really hope you have more success with it, and you may since you do not have the quaife LSD. Are you going to run the phantom grip in that thing?
 
Hey James, I'm not going to quote myself and throw salt on an open wound when it comes down to the Howell issue, but they suck bad. I can't stand Gary, the guys thinks he knows all and it drives me crazy when I call him and tell him what I want, then he tries to tell ME, ME of all people what I need!!!! Honestly, the best bang for the buck and the nicest guys around are Race Engineering, they stock all of our stuff and get it too you in a week max. For instance I called them around 3pm on a Monday and had my stuff here the next day. Of course I live in FL where they are based but it's nice to know that I have service like that.

Not to mention they know there stuff too. Anyways, for all interested there website is www.raceeng.com and I will be talking with them soon about DSMTuners.com sponsorship.

As for a clutch, all I know is I have a dual friction clutch in my car from Clutchmasters and it SUCKS!!!! I'll never use them again, in fact I'm have a custom cermaic clutch made for me with a custom pressure plate as well. I'm not sure if I'm going to run an alluminum flywheel or not, but that's my route. I basically never want to change this thing again!
 
well, i got this clutch really cheap so im going to check it out and if it doesn't do well, ill replace it. howell has pissed me off with the shipping crap. however they did call yesterday and say my parts have shipped :)

James
 
Fortunatly i was running 10 psi in my HRC stage II and my clutch didnt slip once. I think that stage 3 should be fine. It's not worth taking out the clutch and replacing a good stage 3 if not needed. If stock clutch can handle the 225 hp i put down then i cant imagine that 15 psi (granted it is a big difference) wouldnt be able to handle that stage 3 that u have. I am takin my car to the shop next week to do the bottom end as well, so it is nice to see the different ideas that are needed to run what i am doing. As far as the injectors go.. hahn states up and down that stock injectors can handle 10 psi all day long and that is what i was doin and still running phat as hell. obviously you have the same problems with your ride. The stock FPR that Hahn sells is supposed to handle up to 400 hp as well as the inline pump that comes with the kit. Now i understand you would want to upgrade the injectors but i dont believe that the FPR needs to be upgraded totally. Just from what i have heard..
 
my stock clutch was doing good for about 4 or 5 months.. then it started slipping under full boost (10lbs).

the stock injectors can do 10lbs, but you screw up the flow so much by the overwhelming amount of pressure that you shouldn't expect the injectors to last long. Mine didn't. I installed 310cc and have been very happy. Hahn thinks i will need 440cc injectors or higher when doing all this work. I for some reason don't think so because of how rich im running.. We will have to wait and see. Im going to replace the fuel pressure regulator simply becauase it does drop pressure. ive seen it at the track. when you race it, the fuel pressure starts dropping, if you let the car sit for a bit, the pressure comes back up. kinda odd...

James
 
Yeah, we tried to "tune" my buddies probe using EGT/A/F numbers the day before we went to dyno and BOY WERE WE OFF. There really is no way you can tune without a dyno with a wideband. Best $125 you can spend. BTW, his probe put down 343whp at 18 psi using a TE44.
 
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