Rattling when clutch is pushed in

[Leonthefaded]

I did some searching and didnt find too much related to my problem. I originally psoted up in somone elses thread relating to my problem.

Before I begin I'd like to share this that I found in looking for the right clutch for the right job, it explained alot to me.
Its about choosing the right clutch
South Bend Clutch Catalog Conversion from 5 Speed to 6 Speed

Okay when my clutch is pressed down to the floor while in neutral stopped I notice a rattling. Wasnt there until today. I was told to not drive it by another forum member, but I dont think I accuratly described the problem.

The rattling only occurs when the clutch is pressed all the way down to the floor.
It drives fine.
When driving in 1st if I let off the gas there is a slight bounciness I'm beleiving in the engagment zone.
When in 2nd there is a less noticable and less bouncing when letting off the gas.
When in 3rd there is no bounce, along with 4th, and 5th.

Thoughts, questions, remarks?

 

[VelocitàPaola]

So, do you have an upgraded clutch, or is this the stock one? It sounds like the throw-out bearing is having some issues to me. They're fairly inexpensive, but a pain to replace since you have to drop the transmission to get to it.

 

[gofer]

I use a 97 GS as a backup to my GSX and noticed a similar symptom awhile back on my GS. I want to say the car drove for about 5,000 miles until the car became undriveable from a dragging clutch, basically it won't disengage even with the pedal depressed.

I'm still not 100% sure what the culprit is but I've got the transmission all but dropped at the moment. I should have it out tomorrow afternoon so I'll take pictures and post up what actually happened once its out.

Stay tuned. In the mean time, heres the write-up I'm using/used to get the transmission out, read through it so you know what you're about to get yourself into.

2gNT: Removing Your Transmission​

 

[VelocitàPaola]

I use a 97 GS as a backup to my GSX and noticed a similar symptom awhile back on my GS. I want to say the car drove for about 5,000 miles until the car became undriveable from a dragging clutch, basically it won't disengage even with the pedal depressed.

I'm still not 100% sure what the culprit is but I've got the transmission all but dropped at the moment. I should have it out tomorrow afternoon so I'll take pictures and post up what actually happened once its out.

Stay tuned. In the mean time, heres the write-up I'm using/used to get the transmission out, read through it so you know what you're about to get yourself into.

2gNT: Removing Your Transmission​

Are you sure it's not a problem with the clutch hydraulics? Your problem sounds different than the OP's to me...

 

[gofer]

Are you sure it's not a problem with the clutch hydraulics? Your problem sounds different than the OP's to me...

Yea. The problem started/was created because of the clutch hydraulics actually, I drove on it improperly adjusted for so long it led to failure though. When the clutch started dragging I couldn't get the car into 1st with it depressed and started noticing the rattling. I popped the fluid reservoir and noticed there was cob webs in the bottom of it. After I filled it and adjusted the pedal for max travel the rattling continued with engagement until it finally failed a few thousand miles later. With the clutch pedal depressed the car sounds like it has twin disk rattle, I'm assuming that I'll find broken teeth off the pressure plate, a bad TOB, or a busted clutch fork. The setup has 175,000 miles on it total and survived my highschool driving habits too, I can't complain.

I'll take pictures to let you know for sure what happened in there.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

Cool. I'll look forward to your findings.

 

[Leonthefaded]

So, do you have an upgraded clutch, or is this the stock one? It sounds like the throw-out bearing is having some issues to me. They're fairly inexpensive, but a pain to replace since you have to drop the transmission to get to it.

I have no clue. The car was stock when I bought it as far as I'm concerned. The guy didnt know too much about the car to begin with. He only told me you have to push the clutch all the way down to the floor, which I find isnt fully true. Only sometimes to engage in 1st and rarely 2nd, and always when engaging reverse.

Maybe it isnt calibrated right at all. Only way I will find out is if I take it in and rent out the lift bay on the base and take a look at the trany. First time for everything.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

I'd probably inspect the clutch lines and master and slave cylinders for leaks before dropping the transmission.

 

[gofer]

Sorry it took a day longer than I had expected, San Diego and surrounding counties had 5 million people lose power for almost 12 hours the night I was planning on finishing this. I got the transmission dropped today, boy is that thing greasy after 180,000 miles of use.

Just as I suspected, bad TOB and a few fingers busted off of the pressure plate. Not sure which failed first though, either way I've got a new TOB and F1 clutch (eBay) to replace the bad parts with.

The clutch had 180,000 miles on it and was starting to slip however, I think if my clutch hydraulics had been adjusted properly it wouldn't have failed like this.

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[Leonthefaded]

Sorry it took a day longer than I had expected, San Diego and surrounding counties had 5 million people lose power for almost 12 hours the night I was planning on finishing this. I got the transmission dropped today, boy is that thing greasy after 180,000 miles of use.

Just as I suspected, bad TOB and a few fingers busted off of the pressure plate. Not sure which failed first though, either way I've got a new TOB and F1 clutch (eBay) to replace the bad parts with.

The clutch had 180,000 miles on it and was starting to slip however, I think if my clutch hydraulics had been adjusted properly it wouldn't have failed like this.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I really hope that is NOT happening to me. I havent been able to inspect my drivetrain at all, but it seems my problem has been intermitent.

When you get that Ebay clutch, I would love to see pictures and a review!!!! I'm considering... since most of my parts have come from Ebay anyway might as well roll with the trend I started with.

 

[dsmornothing]

I had similar sounds when my clutch was going. The springs in my ACT had started breaking out. By the time I could no longer shift. There was 1 spring left. In my experience it seems like our cars do not like a sprung clutch. Whether its because of the AWD or torque I am not sure. If it is your clutch try an unsprung. They are not as harsh as everyone says and it will never break, only wear out.

 

[Leonthefaded]

I dont have AWD. I have FWD, I do have alot of torqe but nothing to compare it too. I wanna find a dyno somewhere and see my stats

 

[gofer]

I really hope that is NOT happening to me. I havent been able to inspect my drivetrain at all, but it seems my problem has been intermitent.

When you get that Ebay clutch, I would love to see pictures and a review!!!! I'm considering... since most of my parts have come from Ebay anyway might as well roll with the trend I started with.

Yea, I hope your car isn't doing the same thing mine did. I suggest you checking your clutch hydraulics ASAP because I'm sure thats what led to premature clutch failure on my GS.

I've already got the F1 (eBay) clutch and TOB and the car WILL be back on its wheels before the end of the week. I say WILL because I'm moving to a different apartment next Saturday so the cars got to be out of my garage or its getting towed.

I had similar sounds when my clutch was going. The springs in my ACT had started breaking out. By the time I could no longer shift. There was 1 spring left. In my experience it seems like our cars do not like a sprung clutch. Whether its because of the AWD or torque I am not sure. If it is your clutch try an unsprung. They are not as harsh as everyone says and it will never break, only wear out.

This is a N/T issue but I agree, it seems if something fails on the turbo pressure plate/clutch its a spring popping out.

 

[Leonthefaded]

What is agood mid performance clutch. I'm not going with ACT because I've heard too much bad shit about them. No comments on thier behalf is nessecary I wont be purchasing one ever.

 

[dsmornothing]

What is agood mid performance clutch. I'm not going with ACT because I've heard too much bad shit about them. No comments on thier behalf is nessecary I wont be purchasing one ever.

Ummmm really?

 

[Calan]

I'm not going with ACT because I've heard too much bad shit about them. No comments on thier behalf is nessecary I wont be purchasing one ever.

Damn... I better go pull that sorry ACT 2600 that I've been running for 4 years right the hell off my car.

There's better clutches; there's worse clutches (even within the same model from the same manufacturer). Problems at low to moderate power levels are usually due to improper flywheel step, installation issues, failure to properly align and bleed the system, or a problem between the seat and clutch pedal.

 

[gofer]

Parts reviews are like restaurant/hotel/business reviews, people don't take their time to go write a review unless they've got something to bi*** about. ACT has been in the business a LONG time and most DSMer's end up going with a ACT setup of some sort. If ACT sells 10,000 DSM clutch/pressure plate/flywheel setups in a year and 1% of them fail you'll see 100 bad reviews about ACT clutches. Out of those 100 failed clutches you've then got to factor in how many of those ACT clutches actually failed due to improper installation or, similar to what happened to mine above, a inproperly bled/working hydraulic system. Once you do this you'll soon realize that ACT actually sells a damn good clutch that, if installed correctly and is the correct one for your application, will last a really long time with countless runs down the track.

To add a bit to this, ACT only rates their clutch kits for 80% of what it can actually hold rather than 100% like most. The 420A ACT 2100/street disk is rated to hold 310 ft-lbs/tq, in reality though it won't actually slip until it sees upwards of 388 ft-lbs/tq. So if you can burn up a ACT 2100/street disk on a 420A motor you're doing something right... The reason why I went with the F1 eBay clutch was because it has good reviews from the 2g N/T community and it was cheaper than its stock counterpart from AutoZone.

 

[Leonthefaded]

Parts reviews are like restaurant/hotel/business reviews, people don't take their time to go write a review unless they've got something to bi*** about. ACT has been in the business a LONG time and most DSMer's end up going with a ACT setup of some sort. If ACT sells 10,000 DSM clutch/pressure plate/flywheel setups in a year and 1% of them fail you'll see 100 bad reviews about ACT clutches. Out of those 100 failed clutches you've then got to factor in how many of those ACT clutches actually failed due to improper installation or, similar to what happened to mine above, a inproperly bled/working hydraulic system. Once you do this you'll soon realize that ACT actually sells a damn good clutch that, if installed correctly and is the correct one for your application, will last a really long time with countless runs down the track.

To add a bit to this, ACT only rates their clutch kits for 80% of what it can actually hold rather than 100% like most. The 420A ACT 2100/street disk is rated to hold 310 ft-lbs/tq, in reality though it won't actually slip until it sees upwards of 388 ft-lbs/tq. So if you can burn up a ACT 2100/street disk on a 420A motor you're doing something right... The reason why I went with the F1 eBay clutch was because it has good reviews from the 2g N/T community and it was cheaper than its stock counterpart from AutoZone.

Okay... my mind is open for business. Name me a good clutch setup. My car is for street. I'm not pushing much power, because I havent built the motor internally upwards yet. The above mentioned street disk is now on the mind.

Like I said I've read some shit reveiws, but what you said leans more towards than anything. I just need alittle bit more convencing

 

[gofer]

The N/T DSM's (420A motors) have a modular clutch setup, meaning the flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate are all riveted together as one part and don't bolt directly to the crank. The F1 Racing clutch (eBay 2100 equivalent) is a modular clutch so it will go directly in place of the stock one without changing anything in your setup. If you decide you want to go with the ACT 2100 for quality/proven parts then you'll have to change things up a bit because its a non-modular clutch. You'll have to get a separate flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, and (8) flywheel bolts part # 6503464.

Here's another good read that I found when doing some research on the N/T clutch setup.

Modular vs Non-Modular Clutch

​

 

[bullettdsm]

Okay... my mind is open for business. Name me a good clutch setup. My car is for street. I'm not pushing much power, because I havent built the motor internally upwards yet. The above mentioned street disk is now on the mind.

F1 will do you fine and love you long time

MB

 

[Leonthefaded]

F1 will do you fine and love you long time

MB

Will it handle a Hahn Turbo pushing 6 lbs of boost?

 

[gofer]

Yep. If you have a properly working clutch hydraulic system.