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Custom motor mounts

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2slow4utsi

10+ Year Contributor
654
7
Mar 7, 2009
Eastpointe, Michigan
These are solid aluminum, TIG welded front and rear roll stops for a 2G AWD M/T. I've yet to tap holes but you guys get the idea. Once tapped, I'll install them and give everyone some reviews. They are similar to biglady and I used my biglady mounts for measuring and comparisons.
 

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They look great. I dont think they are going to hold up to a motor making any much more than stock power though. I may be wrong, but thats just my thought.

They will hold up to a crazy amount of power. I already talked to a few guys that build 7 second dragsters. Everyone has their opinion but I'll take 7 sec gurus over anyone on tuners. But yeah I thought the same thing at first and almost added some gussets/tabs for support but they were unnecessary.
 
Lol I like your book on the art of seduction. ;)

And your car is gonna vibrate real hard I bet. But they look good

That's actually a very good book if you knew what it's real intentions were. As for vibrations, if I wanted a stock ride I'd buy brand new JNZ mounts and leave the stock rubber in them. These are not for your average DSM.

Awesome mounts man :thumb:

The only thing I'd be worried about is the bolts (and interior pieces) vibrating loose.

Impossible. The bolts/holes are factory size. My valve cover bolts will vibrate loose before the motor mount bolts do. LOL
 
I think its funny as hell that you have these sexy mounts next to a book called "The art of seduction"...Haha. Good lookin mounts! make me some!
 
They look fantastic. But just to be safe I would weld the inside seams as well, at least as much as you can. Or add another plate accros to box in the rear mount.
 
They will hold up to a crazy amount of power. I already talked to a few guys that build 7 second dragsters. Everyone has their opinion but I'll take 7 sec gurus over anyone on tuners. But yeah I thought the same thing at first and almost added some gussets/tabs for support but they were unnecessary.

Kiggly once told me that solids were a bad idea, hopefully you have a different experience.

Personally I wouldn't run those in anything that would see the street, you can ask Warren about that one. Solids will vibrate most of the bolts in your car loose. I know since I helped do a "bolt check" on his FWD at the Shootout, and most of the engine bay bolts were loose.
 
Kiggly once told me that solids were a bad idea, hopefully you have a different experience.

Personally I wouldn't run those in anything that would see the street, you can ask Warren about that one. Solids will vibrate most of the bolts in your car loose. I know since I helped do a "bolt check" on his FWD at the Shootout, and most of the engine bay bolts were loose.

I'll take my chances. If any bolts come loose you can come help me do a "bolt check" and I'll tighten them back up. :thumb:

They look fantastic. But just to be safe I would weld the inside seams as well, at least as much as you can. Or add another plate accros to box in the rear mount.

I'll see how they hold up and then make modifications if necessary.

I think its funny as hell that you have these sexy mounts next to a book called "The art of seduction"...Haha. Good lookin mounts! make me some!

Thanks bro. I won't offer them to the DSM community as I am not a vendor and I don't want to break any rules. Please PM me if you have any questions or inquiries about these mounts.
 
These look great! I'm assuming t6 aluminum? Do you have any more pictures of when you were making them. I'm trying to figure out how u made the front one. Did you start with a flat piece and bend the sides up?
 
They will hold up to a crazy amount of power. I already talked to a few guys that build 7 second dragsters. Everyone has their opinion but I'll take 7 sec gurus over anyone on tuners. But yeah I thought the same thing at first and almost added some gussets/tabs for support but they were unnecessary.

Im not saying the mounts going to break, it doesnt look like you welded the inside or planned on boxing them in. Thats where I see failure. I personally would see some reinforcing necessary, but like you said.

It might not be right away, but somewhere down the line I see those splitting. What are you using for the side and trans mount?

These look great! I'm assuming t6 aluminum? Do you have any more pictures of when you were making them. I'm trying to figure out how u made the front one. Did you start with a flat piece and bend the sides up?

Looks like he took some square tubing and cut the top and angled the sides a bit.
 
Im not saying the mounts going to break, it doesnt look like you welded the inside or planned on boxing them in. Thats where I see failure. I personally would see some reinforcing necessary, but like you said.

It might not be right away, but somewhere down the line I see those splitting. What are you using for the side and trans mount?



Looks like he took some square tubing and cut the top and angled the sides a bit.

If anything happens they will be modified but I don't foresee failure.
 
What are you using for the other 2 mounts?

I would imagine they would have to be solid like these also, becuase if you allow flex on the direction the motor torques, its going to strain these pretty hard.
 
Kiggly once told me that solids were a bad idea, hopefully you have a different experience.

Personally I wouldn't run those in anything that would see the street, you can ask Warren about that one. Solids will vibrate most of the bolts in your car loose. I know since I helped do a "bolt check" on his FWD at the Shootout, and most of the engine bay bolts were loose.
I have a solid front mount and it vibrates pretty hard. You definitely have to do a "bolt check" every once and a while. A few times a I rememebr diving down the road and hearing something rattle off. It was usually nut holding the manifold to the head but one time it was the alternator bolt at the track. I threw the belt at the top of 3rd around 130 mph LOL.
 
Have you heat-treated them since assembly?

No, they are not done.

What are you using for the other 2 mounts?

I would imagine they would have to be solid like these also, becuase if you allow flex on the direction the motor torques, its going to strain these pretty hard.

Red Prothane inserts. People have run biglady mounts with stock or Prothane mounts so I highly doubt you will have to run completely solid mounts all the way around.

I'm just showcasing some fabricated mounts. :thumb: I don't want to argue or discuss pros and cons.
 
The front and rear rollstops are the most important in preventing engine movement. Getting solid side mounts would just cause extreme vibrations for not much extra gain. I currently have solid front and rear with prothane sides. Let me tell you they are not for the faint of heart. I plan on switching back to stock rubber side mounts in the spring to make the ride a little more comfortable. The vibrations aren't too bad in my opinion but you can hear every pulse of the engine. Its like this loud thud, thud, thud, thud as you're accelerating. It makes the car even louder than usual and people turn their heads in shock as you drive by them. I've read that the prothane sides are what really magnifies the vibrations and that's why I'm going back to stock sides.

My advice to anyone interested in solid mounts would be to start with solid front and rears, and if that's too much for you then keep just the front mount solid. If thats still too harsh for you then keep breaking driveline parts from wheelhop.
 
I'm wondering if there will be enough hype on these to become a vendor and produce them. Please let me know if anyone is interested in a set.
 
These look fantastic. I am sure you will love them. I know run a steel front mount with the original aluminum insert in the rear we did nearly four years ago. No problems here with either car we run them on. No bolts ever vibrate out on us. Then again, we don't run these cars as every day cars, with mine being a race only car now.

I run an L shaped front bracket now that allows for NO movement. It bolts directly to the block and to the cross member. It is 1/4" steel. Maybe 3/16", I can't remember. It is just a hair thicker than the bracket that bolts to the motor on a 1G motor mount assembly.

Great idea. I love to see people innovate and expand. Thats what makes cars so special.

Oh, and our two cars here still runs stock side mounts. Anything more is it would be annoying. But these were the magic cure for our FWD CSM's.
 
These look fantastic. I am sure you will love them. I know run a steel front mount with the original aluminum insert in the rear we did nearly four years ago. No problems here with either car we run them on. No bolts ever vibrate out on us. Then again, we don't run these cars as every day cars, with mine being a race only car now.

I run an L shaped front bracket now that allows for NO movement. It bolts directly to the block and to the cross member. It is 1/4" steel. Maybe 3/16", I can't remember. It is just a hair thicker than the bracket that bolts to the motor on a 1G motor mount assembly.

Great idea. I love to see people innovate and expand. Thats what makes cars so special.

Thanks bro I really appreciate it. I can't take all of the credit but I'm just trying to showcase a product. I actually had you get my front and rear roll stops done. :thumb:

My friend and I are constantly trying to think of things that can be fabricated. We are working on a custom non cruise control setup with a cleaner and more appealing look.

I am VERY interested in seeing your new setup if possible. If you don't want to show the whole world, you can PM me and I'll give you a way to contact me.
 
The car or the new mount?
 
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