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2G Cam shaft sensors

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Marqus2024

Probationary Member
8
4
Feb 27, 2024
Pasadena, Maryland
So small background. This car is a 95 gsx. It now has an engine from a 98. The previous engine I think was from a 1g but I’m not fully sure. Anyways the cam shaft sensors looks like it got welded into place and he came up with own thing but if it’s possibly I want to pig tail that to plug into what I think is the cam shaft sensor for the new engine any input on what is what and if I would be able to do that would be appreciated
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You might need to make your own.

Use this to connect to the rectangular plug of the harness, which is the original for the 2Ga

Use this to connect to the 2Gb CAS which you have on the passenger side of the head.

Or just cut off the rectangular plug and bring the wires back over to the passenger side of the head and add the second connector to connect to the 2Gb CAS.
 
I added the sensor in temporary ( it’s just not crimped ) but im still getting a code for camshaft position sensor. Its also won’t come down to an idle it likes to stay between 1500 rpm’s-2000 unless it does come down to 1000 then it wants to die. Idk if its because of that sensor or if I should be looking for other problems I’m having
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You have an odd combination of issues. Engine runs, produces error code. Regardless of how well it runs, if there was no signal, I don't think it would run at all, or it would only run on 2 cyl.

So, logic tends to indicate the wires are connected, but there may be an issue with the sensor itself - or the circuit in the ECU that detects the sensor is wonky.

Have you had the ECU circuit board inspected for leaking capacitor damage?
 
You have an odd combination of issues. Engine runs, produces error code. Regardless of how well it runs, if there was no signal, I don't think it would run at all, or it would only run on 2 cyl.

So, logic tends to indicate the wires are connected, but there may be an issue with the sensor itself - or the circuit in the ECU that detects the sensor is wonky.

Have you had the ECU circuit board inspected for leaking capacitor damage?
The car doesn’t run after it throws the code.
 
Finger still points at ECU incorrectly thinking the sensor is bad,
Or the sensor is actually bad
Or the wiring to the sensor is bad

What is the history on this sensor? Has it ever worked?
My car is a 95. Apparently the sensor changed styles and locations from then to 98 which is the year engine that’s in it right now. So I bought a pig tail so I could plug in the sensor I have now into the connector that the car originally had. So at this point my question is if I flip the wires would I potentially mess something up or would I potentially just have a bad sensor . I’m trying to get past this problem so I can resolve the other problems with the high idle and misfire I’m having
 
You think you might have swapped +12, and Ground to the sensor? Nothing good will happen

This voltage comes from the ECU, so either the sensor is fried, or not, or the ECU driver is fried, or not.

If you don't know what pin does what, you need this information and you need a multi-meter to check continuity and voltage of your wires.

also - 95/96 sensors are “inverted” voltage signal compared to 97-99. In ECM Link there is a checkbox togle for this. This affects the injector sequence. You may not notice any difference at first, but it runs smother when the injector sequence matches the valve timing.
 
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You think you might have swapped +12, and Ground to the sensor? Nothing good will happen

This voltage comes from the ECU, so either the sensor is fried, or not, or the ECU driver is fried, or not.

If you don't know what pin does what, you need this information and you need a multi-meter to check continuity and voltage of your wires.

also - 95/96 sensors are “inverted” voltage signal compared to 97-99. In ECM Link there is a checkbox togle for this. This affects the injector sequence. You may not notice any difference at first, but it runs smother when the injector sequence matches the valve timing.
I don’t have ecm link so how do I go about this inverted signal and I don’t know which pin is what on the sensor. On the old pigtail I have red blue and black. But on the pigtail I bought to plug into the sensor for the 98 the wires are white. Like in this photo
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I did a google search for a factory original pigtail with colored wires - Found this:
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Black w/White stripe = Sensor ground (left)
Blue-green w/Yellow stripe, = Sensor signal (center)
Brown-Red +12v sensor power (right)

A signal inversion is where, what was 0v signal on the middle wire (Blue-green/yellow), is now 5v, and 5v is now 0v.

Without ECM Link, There are six ways to address the signal inversion injector sequence.
1. Do nothing - worry about this after the engine is running
2. Build an electronic signal inverter
3. Change the pins in the ECU harness so that the injector you want to trigger is now different.
4. Go back to using a 95 sensor under the cam gear on the right side of the CAM to go with your 95 ECU (bolts up to a 2G head - not applicable for a stock 1G head)
5. Get a 97-99 year ECU to go with the sensor on the left side of the CAM
6. Get ECM Link





Justin
 
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I did a google search for a factory original pigtail with colored wires - Found this:
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Black w/White stripe = Sensor ground (left)
Blue-green w/Yellow stripe, = Sensor signal (center)
Brown-Red +12v sensor power (right)

A signal inversion is where, what was 0v signal on the middle wire (Blue-green/yellow), is now 5v, and 5v is now 0v.

Without ECM Link, There are six ways to address the signal inversion injector sequence.
1. Do nothing - worry about this after the engine is running
2. Build an electronic signal inverter
3. Change the pins in the ECU harness so that the injector you want to trigger is now different.
4. Go back to using a 95 sensor under the cam gear on the right side of the CAM to go with your 95 ECU (bolts up to a 2G head - not applicable for a stock 1G head)
5. Get a 97-99 year ECU to go with the sensor on the left side of the CAM
6. Get ECM Link





Justin
The picture you have of that colored wire pigtail is how I have it hooked up right now and I did a meter test. My red I have 12v my middle wire which is blue I have 5v and my black is 0v. Should my wire not be 5v for this 97-99 sensor ? Also the car is running and misfires here and there until it throws the code. Once code is up then the car will start, run for 3 seconds then die. Unless I clear the code again. Spark plugs and plug wires are new by the way too.
 
The picture you have of that colored wire pigtail is how I have it hooked up right now and I did a meter test. My red I have 12v my middle wire which is blue I have 5v and my black is 0v. Should my wire not be 5v for this 97-99 sensor ? Also the car is running and misfires here and there until it throws the code. Once code is up then the car will start, run for 3 seconds then die. Unless I clear the code again. Spark plugs and plug wires are new by the way too.
5v is the “high” signal, thats good as wired. The “low” signal is 0v. if you were to monitor the middle 5v signal and rotate the engine by hand, you will see the signal voltage drop.

I did have a run in with a cheap sensor that just wouldn’t keep the engine running - so there is that to consider.
 
So I have a buddy who in his 95 swapped to a 97+ cas. I do not recall how he wired it but in link I had to invert the signal. I wonder if this is same as a 6 bolt swap where the random misfire code will come up unless you have link to turn it off. We already have 97+ cars so he looked up the wiring and made it correct and I inverted and it worked perfect, as to how to invert the cam signal I don’t think you can without getting crafty without link.
 
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