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Resolved Cam shaft and oil pump seal replacement

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chrysler kid

20+ Year Contributor
3,100
893
Dec 20, 2002
Mckinney, Texas
I did my gates racing belt and balance shaft belt and re did my oil pan.

I still had a severe oil leak after switching to synthetic 5w30.

The oil leak would be severe after the car was running.

Anyways it all turned out to be the cam seal, it was hard to spot but it would trickle down onto the waterpump and then down the front case and leak out the lower cover

For the life of me I can't get the cam gear bolt off. I'm borrowing an electric impact tomorrow. Also can't get the oil pump sprocket to come off at all. Am I ok to just crank on the oil pump sprocket with a ratchet and brake bar on the crank?

I've put the old timing belt back on to take the extra stress


The new gates belt, you'll notice the oil on the water pump, the tensioner arm for the timing belt was also covered in oil

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Heres how she sits now with the old timing belt back on her, I want to replace the oil pump seal to be safe, that was the only other place where I saw some oil sludge build up when I first did the belt

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Yeah but the cam gear tool does not fit between the cam gears, I believe the tool was made for 97+ since the 95/96 intake cam appears to be larger

Thank you for the response, I wanted to make sure I am not going to damage the oil pump unit itself by cranking on it with the impact.

Also do you think it would be wise to drill a small hole at the bottom of the lower timing belt cover as a weep hole
 
Cam gear tool fits all 90-99. You have it upside down or backwards or the gears aren't quite aligned
cam gears are not larger. All of them are the same diameter, same number of teeth.
 
Yeah but the cam gear tool does not fit between the cam gears, I believe the tool was made for 97+ since the 95/96 intake cam appears to be larger

Thank you for the response, I wanted to make sure I am not going to damage the oil pump unit itself by cranking on it with the impact.

Also do you think it would be wise to drill a small hole at the bottom of the lower timing belt cover as a weep hole
Weep hole? No. I wouldn't plan for future leaks. If you get leaks you'll see them and when you find them fix them.
 
Cam gear tool fits all 90-99. You have it upside down or backwards or the gears aren't quite aligned
cam gears are not larger. All of them are the same diameter, same number of teeth.

Unless extremepsi.com sent me the wrong holding tool ( they did mess up and not send me the tensioner assembly) it does not fit my car. It is much too fat to fit between the cam gears.

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I bought the kit but the stupid tool was $20 for something that's nothing more than paraffin wax, I could probably make a better one with that jb weld putty in a plastic bag

Hammer time it is then

I ordered another timing belt but the gates racing belt didn't seem to get saturated with oil. I could tell the outer edge was damp but it appears to have dried out now that it's not on the pulleys. $13 for a continental belt seemed like a no brainer for extra insurance

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I had trouble with getting the Extreme Psi cam holding tool to fit between the cam gears on 2 different 6 bolt 4G63 engines. I tried every which way. I ended up using zip ties to hold the belt onto the cam gears.
 
I had trouble with getting the Extreme Psi cam holding tool to fit between the cam gears on 2 different 6 bolt 4G63 engines. I tried every which way. I ended up using zip ties to hold the belt onto the cam gears.


I also used the zip ties for the timing belt job, but they don't hold well enough for the cam gear removal.

Technically I've replaced the timing belt 3 times now and the only tool I would say you absolutely need for the job is the tensioner pulley key, but even with that I'm probably putting too much tension on the pulley since I can still slide the grenade pin in and out even after a week of driving
 
I wedged that cam gear tool between the gears and first try with the breaker bar they broke free.

I was removing the end cam caps to do the seals, I have fat fingers and I'm too tall to crouch with a pic to pull the old seals out

The cam caps were pretty stuck on there, but the more suprising fact was the cam seals were rock hard and had melted to the inside edge, exhaust cam melted on the cam cap the intake cam melted onto the lower head cam hole (picture below) they are really stuck in there, on the cap I used a razor, I had to, nothing would break the rubber chunks free. Maybe a little rtv for the new seals to help them seat once I scrape this crap off?

The rock hard old seals. After seeing their condition I will be replacing all seals on the front of the motor

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H8 UDK ?
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Got a cordless impact, worked like a charm for this fella
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I still don't get how a seal can be hard as a rock but still be melted

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Stupid ass rock auto. I literally ordered ALL continental belts for $20 for all of them. I want all of them to match. They send me a goodyear gator back power alternator belt. Rediculous, that's what is on the car right now and they have basically fallen apart after 6 months. Rock auto's response, some warehouses may fill an order with a similar manufacturer part if not in their inventory. Wtf
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Replaced the crank seal and all seems to be good. Need to have my wife help me push the brakes so I can torque down the crank bolt.

Did run into a snafu. I over tensioned the timing pulley and didn't realize it. Thank god I was running the engine to check for leaks when I head some light tapping noise.
Found that the tensioner arm was rattling against the tensioner. I put the rocker arm tool in position to hold the tensioner, however when you torque down the tensioner pulley you really need to have the grenade pin inserted in the tensioner assembly to make sure it doesn't depress and cause the pulley to rotate further. So yeah when I did my cam and crank seals I forgot to keep the grenade pin in there so I could tighten the tensioner pulley correcty

Then I mis adjusted the oil pump sprocket had a bad vibration.

So yeah I had the timing belt off about 6 times tonight to get tension and the oil pump correct.

Good news though I can now say I can do a 4g63 timing belt job in under 3 hours if I had to time myself
 
Two mistakes. Doesn't matter if you have the grenade pin in. If you over tension you'll bend the pin. Tension until the pin is loose. Rotate crank six times and check tension. If it's wrong redo it. You must check it after rotating the crank. Second. You don't have to hold brakes to torque the crank bolt. Snug the bolt up and tighten it once car is on the ground. Wheels on the ground, turned to the left, parking brake on and car in gear ,assuming manual. Nothing moves at that point and the intial slight movement is clockwise. Torque to spec. It's the very last thing I do.
 
Yep, I forgot to check it after I did the cam seals. The grenade pin is slightly shorter than spec so I just barely snug the belt then tighten the pulley, rotate and then my .15 drill bit fits in nicely with just a tiny wiggle to it.

The crank torque had me worried but if you can cock the wheels and get in through the acess hole that is much easier.

Question though. I replaced the seal on the oil pump sprocket and now the new seal sits further back in the shaft and the oil pump sprocket nut sits further on the shaft than before. It looks like the sprocket rests on the seal
 
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