Timing Belt

[athens14]

What would the problem be if you put the timing belt back on so that it rotates the opposite way as it did when you took it off? also about how much tension should there be in the belt? like if i had a ruler next to the belt and pushed down on it about how many centimeters should i have of play? also, when i had everything lined up after doing the timing belt, i turned it the six times (maybe it wasnt six i dont really know, but it was close) and the oil pump timing was off about six teeth? is this normal? should it line up eventually with more turns? im doubting it slipped because then everything else would be out of line right? thanks for your help!

 

[FORMONTOYA]

What would the problem be if you put the timing belt back on so that it rotates the opposite way as it did when you took it off?

I can't tell you the scientific reasons why not to do it, but putting a used belt back on without it rotating the same direction is a big NO-NO. If you didn't mark the rotation before you took it off, spend the $75 and get a new one. If the belt come apart you will be spending a hell of a lot more than that to get the head fixed when the belt flies apart.

IMO, timing belt components should NOT be compromised.

 

[athens14]

oh if orgot to mention that the timing belt is new withing the last 1000 miles (had to rebuild head)

 

[steve]

Doesn't matter how many miles are on the belt, what's your head worth to you and how much are you willing to risk it.

If you set the preload correctly as described in the procedure the belt will have the correct tension. How much it deflects will depend on where the cam happen to be and how long it's been sitting.

Under no situation should any of the timing marks shift. They were either off to start with or they are skipping which means you didn't preload the belt correctly or used a defective auto-tensioner.

If you have done the B.S.E. then where the mark on the oil pump is isn;t critical but it must remain consistant. The only reason the oil pump has timing marks is to phase the lower balance shaft.

Steve

 

[FORMONTOYA]

oh if orgot to mention that the timing belt is new withing the last 1000 miles (had to rebuild head)

And that is the reason I wouldn't reuse a belt if I didn't know the direction. How much did you spend during this head rebuild? Do you want to do it again behind a $75 part.

To me, IMO, that would be a $75 lesson as to why I need to "bag and tag" items when working on the car. Again, timing belt components should not be compromised on the 4G63.

Someone else might chime in a say you can use it, but I would not try it knowing how critical it is to your motor.

my .02

 

[Talonman92]

And that is the reason I wouldn't reuse a belt if I didn't know the direction. How much did you spend during this head rebuild? Do you want to do it again behind a $75 part.

To me, IMO, that would be a $75 lesson as to why I need to "bag and tag" items when working on the car. Again, timing belt components should not be compromised on the 4G63.

Someone else might chime in a say you can use it, but I would not try it knowing how critical it is to your motor.

my .02

I agree, one head rebuild should be enough to drive this message home. It was for me

 

[toybreaker]

The oil pump drives the rear balance shaft thru the oil pump gears themselves. It's not a 1 to 1 gear ratio. If you turn the crank two times, and return to tdc #1, you may not be lined up on the oil pump. Turn it another 2 revolutions and recheck. Repeat until they line up. It may take 2 or 3 times for tdc #1 to re-line up all the marks.

As far as t-belt tension goes it can be somewhat confusing to check. Depending on where the cams are when you check it, it could be floppy loose or scary tight. It takes some force to rotate the cams profile up and over center on the rocker arms. Therefore, if you're on the leading edge of the cam profile it wants to turn the cam backwards. Conversely, if you're on the backside of the lobe profile, it will want to turn the cam forwards. Either of which preloads, or unloads the belt tension, making it hard, if not impossible to check installed tension. If you're really worried about it, you can check the tensioner projection, although it requires pulling the cover. If you can almost put the pin back through the tensioner, you're perfect, If the pin is retracted back into the body, you've got it too tight. If the tensioner is out past where you can put the pin back in by a substantial amount, you might want to consider resetting the tension.

I you are really concerned about it, I would get a new belt and start over. It's not worth the risk. I always put the belt on so I can read the printing from the left fender side of the motor.

Good luck, hope that helps. It's kind of nerve wracking, isn't it?

 

[gurmanator]

$75 for a timming belt? wow.I can get them for $35.45(gates brand)and I have been using these belts for 6 years now and not a problem.Im pushing 400 plus hp but im just trying to pass on the savings.B/s belt-$19.95.

 

[athens14]

hmmmm...alrighty then. i will have to check that tensioner pin to see if ti close to the hole where i can put a small allen wrench in it. thanks. oh and where is the best place to buy timing belts. the autozone or what? napa? looking for somethign thats not 75 bucks!

 

[gurmanator]

I just called napa 15 minutes ago and that is the price he gave me but I have been buying parts from this guy for 15 years now so I dont know if im getting the "good buddy"price or not but here is the phone#-605-348-9001.

 

[FORMONTOYA]

$75 for a timming belt? wow.I can get them for $35.45(gates brand)and I have been using these belts for 6 years now and not a problem.Im pushing 400 plus hp but im just trying to pass on the savings.B/s belt-$19.95.

OK, it can be had for less than $75.

The point is not if you can find it cheaper, because I can find it cheaper also, but it is about would you risk your TB job/head over $75?

Your call.