I deperately need help but no one has any answers...

[my95tsi]

Ok here's the deal, i'm going to try and explain this as simply as possible. I think i may have more than one problem. My first problem is my alternator. Not all the time but most of the time when my lights are on my voltage will drop to below 12 volts. I have had a belt squeeling problem and i'm almost positive it's the alternator belt. I would tighten it and nothing would happen. When the lights were on the belt would squeel each time i tried to move from a stop. I repalced the belt, after 2 weeks it still squeels. I tightened it but it still squeels. I go to autozone and they test my alternator but not under any load, and they said it's fine but it producing 65 amps.
Here's where the twist comes in. I don't think this is the same problem but when i start my car from a cold start it runs fine. Not to mention my idle usually gets a little lower then normal when it's warm but not too low and it never dies. But when i start my car from a warm start once it was already warmed up the car will idle for 5 seconds at below 200 rpms and then die. It usually takes my about 3 tries to get it running and after that it's fine, until i have to start it and restart it again, but then again it won't do it all the time just 9/10 times. When my car is idling low from a warm start it stumbles and shakes and when i try to rev it up, it will still shake and sputter but just at a higher rpm. It will do this for about 30 seconds then stop so i can drive it. I thought it would be a bad isc because of the bad idle but if it's surging once i rev it up then their has to be a problem other than that, i think. This leads me to belive that it's either a bad coil pack, bad spark plug, bad fuel pump, bad injector, bad ground, or bad 02 sensor. I really don't know what it could be and hops can't diagnose it either because it won't do it for them. I'm not throwing a CEL so it makes it even harder.

 

[gstowner]

This leads me to belive that it's either a bad coil pack, bad spark plug, bad fuel pump, bad injector, bad ground, or bad 02 sensor. I really don't know what it could be and hops can't diagnose it either because it won't do it for them. I'm not throwing a CEL so it makes it even harder.

I would definetly start out with the smaller things such as plugs and plug wires. Im not really sure but you might want to check the idle control motor. Kinda hard to do though since its in the ecu. I wouldn't think its that though since it does it when its warm. I also wouldn't think its your timing either. What I think it is is your fuel pump. The characteristics are definelty there. Starts good when cold not when warm. That would definitly be my guess. Definetly check on that and post back with results.

 

[my95tsi]

I was reading stuff on fuel pumps too see if it was it. How do i really check to see? Plus if it's the fuel pump wouldn't the car just keep dieing and never start? Mine will run after about 23-30 seconds of stumbling if it rev it and hold it. Plus my car has been very reliable to me lately i've been driving it with ths problem for the past 3-4 months and i drive too and from school every other weekend to see my girlfriend and it's a 500 mile round trip. I just thought fuel pumps either work or don't. This problem has been getting progressively worse though.

 

[jasoncitrano]

yo man, your close to the DSM capital of the world...CHICAGO!! You in live in palatine, i'm out in schaumburg about 15 minutes away, i have ton's of GURU's around here that can find the problem with your car within 15 minutes, if i can't. P.M. for my number and we can take a look at it for a fellow CHI-DSMer.

P.s. fuel pumps can sometimes work sometimes not :laugh:

also with the alternator you have the common symptoms of a busted crank pulley... basically the rubber dampener seperates from the actually crank pulley, causing your lights to sometimes come on and would definitly explain the squeeling.

You are correct on the injectors/coil pack also though it could very well be that. But rest assured we can fix that no problemo hit me up. later

 

[RamenPride]

I go to autozone and they test my alternator but not under any load, and they said it's fine but it producing 65 amps.

not sure how much of a difference 10 amps is, but the alternator is supposed to put out 75 amps.

 

[my95tsi]

Shit i wish i was at home, unfortunately i'm at school 250 miles away. Is there a way to tell if it is the crank pulley? I might have to give you a call whn i come home next...BTW what does the crank pulley have to do with the alternator belt? Isn't it the waterpump pulley.

yo man, your close to the DSM capital of the world...CHICAGO!! You in live in palatine, i'm out in schaumburg about 15 minutes away, i have ton's of GURU's around here that can find the problem with your car within 15 minutes, if i can't. P.M. for my number and we can take a look at it for a fellow CHI-DSMer.

P.s. fuel pumps can sometimes work sometimes not :laugh:

also with the alternator you have the common symptoms of a busted crank pulley... basically the rubber dampener seperates from the actually crank pulley, causing your lights to sometimes come on and would definitly explain the squeeling.

You are correct on the injectors/coil pack also though it could very well be that. But rest assured we can fix that no problemo hit me up. later

 

[Sotarts]

also with the alternator you have the common symptoms of a busted crank pulley... basically the rubber dampener seperates from the actually crank pulley, causing your lights to sometimes come on and would definitly explain the squeeling.

I second that. That happened to me four months ago. Once the crank pulley sandwich rubber keeps rubbing away, outer part of the pulley will start wobbling around and you'll start shredding alternator/water pump belts. Power steering belt is around the water pump pulley, so you'll lose power steering once it breaks and your water will not keep pumping (it'll boil over and spit out of the reservoir).

Check your crank pulley by attempting to wobble the outer part of the pulley independently from the inner part (even very minor movement will indicate the problem). A/C belt is on that pulley as well. You can also check by looking down there (with flashlight maybe) and see if it wobbles around while the car is idling. Try wobbling it by your hand if it's not visibly screwed up. Moisture/oil make things worse.

This is what happened to my pulley, it wasn't even tightly in there. Since there's rubber inside, the pressure from accessory belts keeps it somewhat rolling:

 

[Greg Collier]

Our cars are so power (battery and alternator) dependant it's unreal. Low battery, bad alternator, loose belts, can contribute to multitude of problems. I run a 90 amp alternator in my race car and the efficiency of all my electrical systems has improved dramatically. I'm not telling you to run out and buy a new alternator but 65 amps is a bit low..............
You need to check the alternator under a load, head lights , air conditioner, hazard lights, anything and everything running for the test. See what your amperage is then?
Greg

 

[my95tsi]

This may sound like a stupid question but but what does the crank pulley have to do with the alternator and ps belt? I forget but are the connected through the timing or balance shaft belt? What is involved in replacing a crank pulley?

 

[4g63tsiawd]

The crank pulley runs everything, the alt. and the water pump and the water pump has the power steering belt pulley which runs the ps. Replacing isn't hard just take your belt off, take out the 4 bolts that hold the crank pulley to the crankshaft and revers to put it back on.

 

[jasoncitrano]

Yeah it's really not bad at all to do...but once it fully seperates it can be devistating. My friends 1991 awd the pulley completly seperated from the dampener and it took out the timing belt and which in turn crushed all his valves into his pistons which = $$$.

 

[jasoncitrano]

Here i made a diagram for you to easily understand whats happening

As you can see the rubber piece in between is supposed to hold the outter part and the inner part of the pulley together. When it seperates it cuases the crank to want to spin and the alternator/power steering/A/c belts want to hold it still. So this causes the whinning your probably hearing. it's caused by the crank wanting to move, and the accessories holding it there. hope this helps

 

[Sotarts]

it's caused by the crank wanting to move, and the accessories holding it there. hope this helps

Crank WILL spin. Nothing is holding it anywhere. Accessories are relying on the outer part of the crank pulley (harmonic dampener) to stay attached to the crank pulley, so everything can go round. When the outer part separates, the crank pulley freely spins inside, rubbing against the rubber, making the noise.

 

[LaserDad91]

Definatly check your crank pulley. First link was when my belt problems started and second link is the conclusion. Since I replaced the crank pulley, I have had no issues with belt squeal under any type of condition.

Good luck!!

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=156981

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=164814

 

[my95tsi]

I honestly don't think it's my crank pulley. I had my alternator tested at autozone again and it puts out 63 amps while idling not under any load. Under a load (with lights on) it puts out 38 amps. It's definitely my alternator. That is pretty much a tell tail sign of one about to go out. But however i dn't think thta solves may bad idle problem on a warm start. It did it just recently and and the voltage doesn't change or go low when it's stumbling and hesistating right before it dies. I'm gonna check spark plugs but the fuel pump idea sounds like a strong possiblity. I was told by several people that i good sign a bad fuel pump is warm starting problems.

 

[Sotarts]

I honestly don't think it's my crank pulley. I had my alternator tested at autozone again and it puts out 63 amps while idling not under any load. Under a load (with lights on) it puts out 38 amps. It's definitely my alternator. That is pretty much a tell tail sign of one about to go out. But however i dn't think thta solves may bad idle problem on a warm start. It did it just recently and and the voltage doesn't change or go low when it's stumbling and hesistating right before it dies. I'm gonna check spark plugs but the fuel pump idea sounds like a strong possiblity. I was told by several people that i good sign a bad fuel pump is warm starting problems.

How do you explain this:

I have had a belt squeeling problem and i'm almost positive it's the alternator belt. I would tighten it and nothing would happen. When the lights were on the belt would squeel each time i tried to move from a stop.

Just check your crank pulley to rule it out. It will take only few minutes.

When my pulley split, the squealing would be REALLY loud when moving from a stop. It's extra bad when moving from a stop and turning the wheel all the way.

 

[brokengsx]

I honestly don't think it's my crank pulley. I had my alternator tested at autozone again and it puts out 63 amps while idling not under any load. Under a load (with lights on) it puts out 38 amps. It's definitely my alternator. That is pretty much a tell tail sign of one about to go out. But however i dn't think thta solves may bad idle problem on a warm start. It did it just recently and and the voltage doesn't change or go low when it's stumbling and hesistating right before it dies. I'm gonna check spark plugs but the fuel pump idea sounds like a strong possiblity. I was told by several people that i good sign a bad fuel pump is warm starting problems.

your altenator isn't going to produce the proper amperage if the belt isn't properly turning the alternator because of the crank pulley possibly being loose on the outside. Slower belt= slower recharge= no juice.

 

[my95tsi]

Yeah but my car isn't even producing the proper amperage with the lights on and the belt doesn't slip then. You guys are talking about a major squeel. Mine hasn't squealed for a long time until i replced my belt. All it does it give out alittle squeak whenever i give it gas or start moving. I never continuously squeals like before, but i'm sure it will if i give it time. I'm gonna check the pulley when i pulley off the belts to replace the alternator.

 

[taino787]

All it does it give out alittle squeak whenever i give it gas or start moving. I never continuously squeals like before, but i'm sure it will if i give it time

hey bro if your belts make any sound at any time you might need to check them for proper tension. improper tension can affect the performance of your ALT. no disrespect man, but if you cannot tighten the belt to stop the squeak take it to someone that knows how to do it without a doubt..that ALT tensioner bolt is a bit tricky if you are not sure what you doing...


Check the cam position sensor for the other problems when starting/it might be going bad or might have moisture inside or connection

 

[my95tsi]

I've brought it to a reputable shop and within 2 weeks it was doing it again. So i'm jst replcing the alternator and going from there. My voltage has been very bad for the past 6 months. When i come to stop my radio will cut out at times b/c of the low volatge and it even does when i'm driving at times. The belt squeal problem just started about les than 2 months ago. The belts won't squeal when i turn the wheel, turning the wheel has nothing to do with it. It will only give off a slight squeak about 70% of the time when the lights are on and i start moving. It will really squeal when i start to take off without warming the car up on a cold start. It very well could be my crank pulley but i think might be the worse case scenerio. Having my alternator tested under a load today pretty much sold me that its the alternator, sounds ike a bad regulator. The alternator put out over 14 volts under a load but produces half the amps. Amps are the main problem b/c my radio will cut out at 12.6 volts. I know dsm's have some major issues and people are likely to think of the little things besides the obvious cause and that's the whole reason i started this thread. I want to think of every possible aspect so when i do replace the alternator and it still does it i know what to move to next. I'm just hoping that my bad idle misfire leading to the car dying at times is also caused by the alternator but then again if it's producing that few amps it should also affect the fuel pump since it's electric.

hey bro if your belts make any sound at any time you might need to check them for proper tension. improper tension can affect the performance of your ALT. no disrespect man, but if you cannot tighten the belt to stop the squeak take it to someone that knows how to do it without a doubt..that ALT tensioner bolt is a bit tricky if you are not sure what you doing...


Check the cam position sensor for the other problems when starting/it might be going bad or might have moisture inside or connection

 

[my95tsi]

*UPDATE*

Ok i just recently replaced my alternator. While everything was apart i also check the waterpump pulley and the crank pulley. The crank pulley seems fine as can be, no play no movement, i couldn't get it to budge. However my waterpump puley seems to have alittle play, it's hardly noticable but i can tell. Anyways i put everything back together and tightened the belt as much as i could. The belt no longer squeals so i'll see how long that lasts. However i don't don't if it got rid of the misfire on a warmn startup. I'm gonna pull my plus tommorow to see if they are ok. I'm not too good at checking the fuel pump because i can't here it when it's running when it really is. I'll give it a few days and if everything is fine then i guess i fixed it.