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12.0 at 122 14b street car no nitrous

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danl

20+ Year Contributor
1,071
467
Apr 8, 2002
Severn, Maryland
Impressive, gotta slip? What was your 60? What tires, if slicks what tire pressure? Fully gutted I presume, impressive run. Any pics of the car, post em up we'd love to see.
 
Gutted, no. Tastefully lightened to allow room for my tools, jack, tires, and gas on the drive to the track yes. I'll post the slips tomorrow, I'm beat. Here some pics I have hosted at the moment though.

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While its not something you want do drive cross country nor is it my only car but I still commute to work in it or just to run errands as its easier on gas than the evo.
 
That's a BIG mph for a 14b. I'm amazed it ran that fast compared to 130 mph on the 50 trim. Were you on street tires? I ran a similar ET with 10 mph less trap.
 
what boost ?
i dont know how you guys run so quick. i raced today and i suck at FWD

good job
 
Its not like it hits and holds a boost level then tapers to a certian psi. Its more of a spike to 20 the holds 15, then the needle starts shaking violently between 14 and 16psi and then the motor goes sour and I have to shift at 6000-6500rpm's. If I stay in it to 7000rpm's the plugs foul out and I have to limp it down the track. For that reason I just shift at 6K and call it a day. Its the best average of holding boost and not loosing the plugs. Anywhere from 3K rpm on its got power then at 4500 the cams start coming on, motor changes tone and it pulls well for a little bit.
 
That's a BIG mph for a 14b. I'm amazed it ran that fast compared to 130 mph on the 50 trim. Were you on street tires? I ran a similar ET with 10 mph less trap.

My 50 trim passes were on a stock motor. This is NOT a stock motor anymore. I had to run 30psi on the 50 trim to get that out of it and the stock motor was pissing coolant after passes. I had to park it in the grass and refill the overflow every pass when i was doing that. I lost half to a full gallon of coolant per pass when I was doing that and my headbolts were at 140psi torque on ARP's. Needless to say I don't run shitty run of the mill ARP's anymore. :notgood:
 
FP3x (this motor is NOT built for this turbo, its built around a FP3065 but I ran out of funds). Pistons are the lowest compression ROSS makes in their 20 over design (low 8's) with a lightly skimmed head and block and a mitsu metal to lower the compression as much as possible. I didn't CC the head but compression (from measurements) is the same or just a tick higher than stock.
 
i was wondering why you were only holding 15psi. than i saw it. fp3x. your running the stroker cam in that thing... wicked. thats a ton of power and great e.t. keep it up!!
 
You need to do somthing asap to hook from the hole man. Those 60's are killing you and you will run really useless times on a 3065. 11.8 @ 140mph? :sosad: :nono: :sneaky:

What hardware are you using to keep the head and block together now? ARPs are pretty useless esp. when overtorqued.

Impressive times for a 14B. Hell...if I were you I would just put an E316G and call it a day. Set up the suspension better to hook. Need to get 1.6-1.7's.
 
I'm on 5 year old hoosier 26" QTP's thats probably why it doesen't hook. I also don't burnout because I can't get my tires in the waterbox at this track. At the shootout I was running 1.8 sixteys w/burnout but you AWD guys absolutely tore up the launch pad for me and I was spinning, but I did dead hook in second gear.

I'm not putting a bigger turbo on until I build a sufficient cage with provisions for a chute. I like the 14b because its easy to bracket race and seems to be kind to the drive train.

Magnus and SBR both sell A1 headstuds, thats what I'm using. Its the only headstud upgrade to consider for a 6 bolt.
 
I'm on 5 year old hoosier 26" QTP's thats probably why it doesen't hook. I also don't burnout because I can't get my tires in the waterbox at this track. At the shootout I was running 1.8 sixteys w/burnout but you AWD guys absolutely tore up the launch pad for me and I was spinning, but I did dead hook in second gear.

I'm not putting a bigger turbo on until I build a sufficient cage with provisions for a chute. I like the 14b because its easy to bracket race and seems to be kind to the drive train.

Magnus and SBR both sell A1 headstuds, thats what I'm using. Its the only headstud upgrade to consider for a 6 bolt.

I did not see a FMIC in your picture - am I missing something?

Mike Huml
SBR Inc.
 
I did not see a FMIC in your picture - am I missing something?

Mike Huml
SBR Inc.

And I would like to thank SBR for the hookup on a BLACK ANODIZED race core from them. After the hotlapping abuse the inlet was scalding hot to the touch but the outlet was as cool as the outside air.

Take another look at the pic above, their IS an intercooler their :)
 
Impressive, that's exactly what I want to do with my FMIC in the future :)
 
Impressive, that's exactly what I want to do with my FMIC in the future :)

It is actually a lot of work - to have the proper finish you want - before anodizing the IC must be fully polished first!

It is worth it however, it looks great.

PS - in case anyone was wondering - Danl can drive the "pants" off of this car - he and the car have been bonding for years.

Mike Huml
SBR Inc.
 
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