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I Need A Timing Tool Asap!!is There An Alternative To Using It?

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ALLBoostAWD

15+ Year Contributor
186
3
Oct 13, 2004
Prattville, Alabama
I am currently replacing my hydraulic timing belt tensioner :notgood: , and need to compress the tensioner pulley in order to place the hydraulic tensioner in place. Is there an alternate tool to use or improvise when doing this or is the OEM tool necessary to complete this installation successfully? Any help is good, if anyone has this tool please let me know if you wanna sell it. Thanks :talon:
 
Get a large C clamp from the home depot. Use that along with two pieces of wood to prevent the tensioner from being damaged. Works great.
 
You still need the tool that adjusts the tensioner pulley. You place the auto tensioner in place and adjust the pulley to the tensioner to "factory specs" I hear it can be done without it but I bet it's a gamble. Great if it works, but I bet it sucks if done wrong.

Get the tools from Snap On or Mac Tools. They really aren't that high. Well, not as high as replacing all the valves if it's not done right

Good Luck
 
Remember when you are compressing the hydrolic tensioner to go slow. You can't just ram the pin back in or you will damage the seals.

The special tool is not needed if you use the method I did:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1659209&postcount=9

But if you want to do everything 'by the book' for tension on the belt, it actually calls for the tool in the picture below, but I have done the job over 20 times and just tightened it until it 'felt' right. You will get the hang of it over time.
 

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It's interesting that the 2G manual has you preload the timing belt the exact opposite way and direction from the way the 1G and GVR4 manuals instruct and specify a higher preload value.

On a 1G the pin holes in the tensioner pulley start on he left side and the 2 ft lbs preload is applied clockwise with the holes winding up somewhere on top.

In the 2G manual the pin holes in the tensioner pulley start on he left side and the 2.6 ft lbs preload is applied counterclockwise with the holes winding up somewhere on bottom.

Steve
 
Ive put on 3 tbelts on 3 different cars, with a jack handle.

all of which have 10+ K miles so far no problems. One has 30k

compress tensioner in a vice, small allen head to hold it.

bolt up tensioner pulley semi tight
press pulley into tensioner with jack handle to a very slight contact.

bolt down, release.
I do it so the tensioner applies the final tension.

i then check the flex of the belt as the manaul instructs. and its always good.

Mabye its something you have to have a feel for, mabye Ive been lucky, i dont know. But i dont advise this method if your not comfortable.
 
The last Tbelt Job I did i used the same method

It was a 6bolt swap on my old 95. The 6bolt was already built, and had 4k miles on it, but I had to swap the motor mount for the 2g. I marked the belt and all pulleys and sprockets and took it apart, and put it back together, the Zips were to just hold the top together, worked great.

Car ran 20psi on a EVOIII with 660cc for 15k miles before i sold it, no problems.

again I dont recommend this method, just works for me,.
 

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I've never had the luxury of using that tool, but i wish I had one. But, you can do it without it. You're supposed to compress the hydraulic tensioner while it is still on the car using the tensioner arm and the special tool. I just play with the tensioner pulley until it is tight when you crank down on it for tension. The two little holes on the pulley are about 11 and 1 oclock.

The way to make sure that hydraulic tensioner and tensioner pulley is set correctly, when you insert the allen key into the tensioner, you should be able to pull it in and out of that little hole with ease after the timing belt is done. And rotate the motor 2 times and let it set for about 15 minutes and check it again. Ive been using this method for years.
 
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