[RESOLVED] Piston hitting spark Plugs

[Streetsweeper21]

Hey watz up? I jus installed a t3/t4 setup in my car and its running like crap. The blow off valve you cant even hear any more and its not boosting past 5psi. When I went to check my spark plugs I found 2 spark plugs that were pushed in from the pistons. Two of the spark plugs had no gap whatsoever. Before that I tried to do a boost leak test and I couldnt get the boost gauge to even budge. I dont know what is happening I never took my car to a shop and not really trying to now. What could cause the piston to hit the spark plugs? Thanks alot

 

[mach4g63t]

If you have aftermarket gauges, the oil will remain low unless the engine is being revved or moving under load, because the pump is not being spun. As for the lowered, vacuum, this is generally a result of the engine getting more air outside of the turbo, ie a boost leak. The ECU frying would have nothing to do with what conditions you are describing. Unless you have some sort of electric boost gauge, a mechanical boost gauge takes all it's readings directly from the source of vacuum attached at the base and monitors boost and vacuum mechanically.

 

[Epic904]

My vaccum use to be 18 when i was stock after I upgraded the turbo a long time ago always stayed around 10. My oil pressure gauge was goin really high now going low when I dont rev it after a while, also my coolant temp was going crazy now it seems normal. My alternator did touch the frame when I didnt uplug the batterty and caused a huge spark you think the ecu could be damaged?

So it all happened after the turbo install. Basically 10 in/hg means your idle has to be real pour in either a boost leak or even not firing on all cylenders. The oil pressure problem could be something as simple as a bad sending unit, a bad ground, but where do the new turbo draw it's oil from? If you did ground out the postive cable i would check some of the fuses under the hood before pulling out the ecu. The vacuum leak could be the throttle seals as these are 18 year old cars. Also check to make sure the vacuum line to the gauge is good and not leaking. As for the coolant temp. guage going crazy what do you mean by that?

 

[mach4g63t]

One thing you could check is to make sure you have your lines run correctly to and from your FPR. Sometimes it's easy to get the lines botched up in which the vaccum line should feed into. This would cause poor boost conditions also because your engine isn't getting the proper fuel adjustments. This happened to me once on the stock FPRS and it actually created another huge boost leak instead of capping off as a one-way vacuum. You could blatently hear the leak until I switched the vacuum lines around the correct way. Check those too. Check ANYTHING that has a vacuum line. ANYTHING that comes off the throttle body or your intake manifold. Check ANYTHING connect to or stemming from your intake pipe, interooler pipes/hoses, and turbo. Even check the intercooler for some sort of bust or leak.

 

[Streetsweeper21]

Try to stick a pen magnet in each cylinder and see if you pull anything up. I had my valves break off and my car ran for 2 months with only 14 valves. It ran fine! Probably not good for the rest of the engine but it worked.

I stuck a magnet in each cylinder nothin came out altough my spark plus look pretty black and their brand new

If you have aftermarket gauges, the oil will remain low unless the engine is being revved or moving under load, because the pump is not being spun. As for the lowered, vacuum, this is generally a result of the engine getting more air outside of the turbo, ie a boost leak. The ECU frying would have nothing to do with what conditions you are describing. Unless you have some sort of electric boost gauge, a mechanical boost gauge takes all it's readings directly from the source of vacuum attached at the base and monitors boost and vacuum mechanically.

I dont have an aftermarket gauge im using the stock gauge but neway I rather fix the boost problem because I could always buy a new oil pump if thats the case.

So it all happened after the turbo install. Basically 10 in/hg means your idle has to be real pour in either a boost leak or even not firing on all cylenders. The oil pressure problem could be something as simple as a bad sending unit, a bad ground, but where do the new turbo draw it's oil from? If you did ground out the postive cable i would check some of the fuses under the hood before pulling out the ecu. The vacuum leak could be the throttle seals as these are 18 year old cars. Also check to make sure the vacuum line to the gauge is good and not leaking. As for the coolant temp. guage going crazy what do you mean by that?

Im drawing oil from the oil filter housing. The coolant temp gauge was reading normal than when I reved the engine was flickin up and down fast and the oil gauge was going up and down too. That problem could also wait just thought I should mention it just incase it has anythin to do with what's goin on.

 

[mach4g63t]

WTF t3/t4 turbo with a stock gauge? You are either lying about the turbo setup or have your priorities seriously confused. Even with a 16g a stock boost gauge isn't going to help. With the list of mods you have listed I don't quite understand why you don't have a boost gauge already.

Do yourself a favor and do a lot of reading here

 

[Streetsweeper21]

WTF t3/t4 turbo with a stock gauge? You are either lying about the turbo setup or have your priorities seriously confused. Even with a 16g a stock boost gauge isn't going to help. With the list of mods you have listed I don't quite understand why you don't have a boost gauge already.

Do yourself a favor and do a lot of reading here

Im talkin about a stock oil pressure gauge not boost you are crazy. You stated "If you have aftermarket gauges, the oil will remain low unless the engine is being revved or moving under load" So thats what im talkin about the stock oil gauge which is the gauge I thought you was talkin about. My car came wit a aftermarket boost gauge. Heres a pic of my setup

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and I do have the nipple connect to the wastegate jus not on the pic

 

[Streetsweeper21]

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[Epic904]

Although i hate to as why there are only 3 nuts holding the manifold on and that there is no downpipe. I assume that the picture is while you were working on it, but does the wastegate say tial on it on the side of it?

 

[Streetsweeper21]

Although i hate to as why there are only 3 nuts holding the manifold on and that there is no downpipe. I assume that the picture is while you were working on it, but does the wastegate say tial on it on the side of it?

Yes the studs are all there accept the corners its not effecting anythin and has nothin to do with the boost leak test right or wrong? There is a downpipe there I have to get the 02 housing made for the turbo jus tryin to get it to boost and run a little normal.

 

[ArticNemesis]

The nipple on the turbo for the pressure source for a controller/gauge is uncapped.

You have a MASSIVE boostleak somewhere. Find it. It's leaking from somewhere, you should be able to hear it pretty easily.

Once again, pull the timing belt cover off, and make sure the marks all line up and the belt is intact.

 

[Streetsweeper21]

The nipple on the turbo for the pressure source for a controller/gauge is uncapped.

You have a MASSIVE boostleak somewhere. Find it. It's leaking from somewhere, you should be able to hear it pretty easily.

Once again, pull the timing belt cover off, and make sure the marks all line up and the belt is intact.

The nipple goes to the wastegate jus not in pic. Im goin to check the timing marks tomorrow if thats straight i guess im taking it to a shop.

 

[ArticNemesis]

If you want to rule out valves, FIRST make sure your timing is correct,
then do a compression test. Granted, the results will be lower because the engine isnt warmed up, but if you are getting an across the board reading, your valves are fine. If you bent any valves, you will have incredibly low #'s, or none at all.

Once you rule out destroyed or bent valves. Boost leak. Find out where the air is leaking to. It doesn't just disappear.

Pull the IC piping off. Start at the throttle body elbow, and boost leak test, if it holds pressure there, then install the next piece of piping and do it again. Keep going until you find/fix the leak.

If it's leaking when you test at the TB elbow, it's leaking from the elbow, the throttle body seals, or the intake manifold.

 

[Streetsweeper21]

If you want to rule out valves, FIRST make sure your timing is correct,
then do a compression test. Granted, the results will be lower because the engine isnt warmed up, but if you are getting an across the board reading, your valves are fine. If you bent any valves, you will have incredibly low #'s, or none at all.

Once you rule out destroyed or bent valves. Boost leak. Find out where the air is leaking to. It doesn't just disappear.

Pull the IC piping off. Start at the throttle body elbow, and boost leak test, if it holds pressure there, then install the next piece of piping and do it again. Keep going until you find/fix the leak.

If it's leaking when you test at the TB elbow, it's leaking from the elbow, the throttle body seals, or the intake manifold.

Sounds good thanks but I been did a compression test numbers came out to 130 in all 4 cylinders.

 

[ArticNemesis]

Sounds good thanks but I been did a compression test numbers came out to 130 in all 4 cylinders.

With pretty even #'s across the board, it sends you back to the boost leak test then. The only thing you did was put a new turbo on, thus disturbing the IC pipes. Find the leak, and you will more than likely have solved your problems.

Use soapy water in a spray bottle if need be, and wet down the everything (IC pipes, IC itself, IM manifold, TB). Watch for the bubbles!

 

[Streetsweeper21]

Update was about to take my car to Top level Performance today but did more test. When I open the oil cap I can hear air coming from the crankcase when I take the hose off the pcv it stops. Im gettin 5psi instead of 3 psi with the hose off the pcv. I just changed the pcv valve could it still be bad? Also with the hose off the pcv I now hear a large leak on my lower intake manifold gasket on the coil pack side so im going to change the gasket now. I shouldnt be gettin air coming thru pcv valve correct? Im also gettin a fuel odor when I do the boost leak test.

............

 

[ArticNemesis]

The leaking into the crankcase can be numerous things depending on how the valves are currently open/closed, what condition the valve seals & pison rings are in. Someone recommended moving the timing belt manually to a certain spot so that all the intake valves were in configuration to stop such leaks. I'll try and find the post and get back to you on that.

On a positive note, you are heading in the right direction with the huge leak on the IM gasket. Once you get rid of the large leaks, you can hunt down the smaller ones when it actually holds pressure.

*edit* Start here. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-system-tech/174682-boost-leaks-odd-places.html

 

[Streetsweeper21]

Thanks Alot for your help!!! New update the new pcv valve I had was garage I put back an old Mitsubishi one now it sucks air in the intake instead of letting the pressure from the intake go to the crankcase. Ps Stay away from Autozone Pcv Valves!
Also changed the intake manifold gasket set the motor to 30 Degree ATDC. Did the boost leak test again and got a steady 20psi. So that should eliminate bent valves and maybe timing being off? I did find small leaks at 2 injector seals and small leak at the tps sensor. Im going to jus install my new 650cc since they have new seals and im gonna need them for my 50trim neway.

I would say the reason why the blow off valve wasnt makin any noise because the intake manifold pressure wasnt full enough because the pcv vavle was letting the air from the intake go into the valve cover and plus the intake manifold gasket leak. i will let you guys know what happens when I put everything back together.

 

[ArticNemesis]

an old Mitsubishi one now it sucks air in the intake instead of letting the pressure from the intake go to the crankcase.

It should allow air to be removed from the crankcase by means of the intake manifold while in vacuum. It should seal while under boost conditions to prevent pressure from leaking into the crankcase from the intake manifold.

So that should eliminate bent valves and maybe timing being off?

More than likely, however the ONLY correct way to elminate timing being off is to line everything up with the timing belt cover off and visually checking that everything is in line.

I did find small leaks at 2 injector seals and small leak at the tps sensor.

The injector leak should be remedied when you install the new injectors. Make sure you fix the leak at the TPS sensor though. You've gone through all this trouble, might as well make it thorough.

I would say the reason why the blow off valve wasnt makin any noise because the intake manifold pressure wasnt full enough because the pcv vavle was letting the air from the intake go into the valve cover and plus the intake manifold gasket leak.

You had multiple large leaks from several different places. The BOV isn't going to relieve pressure when there was no pressure to begin with.


Do post back when you get everything put together and let us know how it runs.

 

[Streetsweeper21]

Update started it up after I put everything together with the 650s. The car is idling better than it ever did and my boost gauge sits steady at -10 vacs the rpms go up with no problem when I rev the engine. Only problem is the BOV is not blowing off. The turbo boost up to 10psi which I think is right with a 13psi spring. I didnt hook up the mbc yet to raise to boost because I still cant get it to blow off!!! I also put the stock bov back on so its not the bov any ideas?? How ever I can see the valve openning when I rev the car from outside.

 

[ArticNemesis]

-10 is kinda low for vacuum at idle, you've still got leaks somewhere or your motor's compression is in bad shape. You have the BoV hooked up to a source line on the intake manifold right?

 

[Streetsweeper21]

Yes I have the Bov line hooked directly to the intake manifold. Before the the turbo swap my blow off valve always blew off every time I reved my engine a little. Is there anywhere else I can hook up the bov line to? I dont want to blow my turbo from the Bov.

So I boost leak tested every pipe from Throttle body to LICP. Everything went to 20psi until I got to turbo than it went to 11psi. I sprayed down the compressor housing with soapy water and when I stuck my hand underneath the turbo I felt air comin from there not much but it was enough. Im going to take the turbo off and make sure everything is tight and hopefully that will fix the problem wit the blow off vavle.

Aight so last night got my brand new compressor stolen so I didnt think I could finish the car. I took off the turbo and the bolts for the compressor housing. One plate that holds the compressor cover from the back I removed because it wouldnt fit without hitting the block. So I reinstalled it put alot of Orange silcone all round the housing started it soon as I reved a little the blow off valve opened than I did a high rev and what do you know the car is blowing off Loud and strong. Im glad I didnt take my car to the shop like I wanted to from workin on the car non stop to sun up to sun down.

I think it was the compressor housing the whole time my car wasnt blowing off and the reason why my car vac was goin all over the place and stayin by 0 was because of the intake manifold gasket the only problem I have now is when I dont rev the car for a while the oil pressure goes really low but I think its the gauge because my rpm gauge stop working.

I would like to THANK All OF YOU FOR YOU ADVICE OPINIONS AND HELP!!!!!!!!!!!