ECMlink ISC diagnosis/ comprehension.

[miliman13]

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This is the resistance of each coil on the new isc motor that i linked from the amazon page.

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This is how it behaved upon ignition key rotation.
Very similar to the old one

But this one was very tight i couldn't spin it by hand.
I also checked the ECU and its fine.


HOWEVER!!

No real change on link....
Most i did was set it to 3

Please see logs, its responsive at start up and throttle but at idle it zeos out.

 

[miliman13]

Checking the [ ground diagnostic pin ]
Does NOTHING.
Adjusting biss= NOTHING
Pressing every box on link= NOTHING

?????????

 

[pauleyman]

Manually ground the check connector. If that doesny work check the continuity to ecu. If that checks out id say you have a bad ecu

 

[miliman13]

Manually ground the check connector. If that doesny work check the continuity to ecu. If that checks out id say you have a bad ecu

The blue randon connector that normally sits on the fire wall close to the resistor pack ?

Check continuity to the ECU? How do i go about doing so.
(Sorry i really don't know )

And the ECU seems unlikely - Dorris did a full service to it and since then this this thing has been a paper weight. / Also sent him photos
"Very detailed- High quality" and does appear to be good.

 

[pauleyman]

Yes that connector by resistor pack. Youll need a pinout diagram to figure out which ecu pin that is to check continuity. Maybe ecu doesnt have a good ground.

 

[miliman13]

So I still keep reading up on the subject,
And in several threads the information changes that lead to success.

Some say don't ground a thing in a 2g
( supposedly endorsed by Doris )

Some say to only ground diagnostic pin and others insist you ground both boxes in misc tab on link.

And I've also read you have to turn the vehicle of and unplug battery ground, ect...


The WIKI isn't very detailed on this matter either.


This is just one link, no point in showing them all, I known I'm not the only one who has noticed it.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/attempting-to-adjust-biss-with-ecmlink.469249/




An added question...

My car doesn't stall. It doesn't surge, it idles fine until fans turn on and kill my afrs, but besides that seems fine just the value is always zero...


Should I just forget about it
And move on?

How important is having it show 30 on link? And for what purpose.

 

[bling5tatus]

If your fans are turning on and changing your AFR I'd look at your dead times. Deadtimes are not just a magic set it and forget it value that match every set of xyz injectors they're listed for. They have to be "tuned" for the amp draw of the accessories running on your car.

Stand alone computers call this "voltage offset" or "injector latency". You can tune yours by getting your idle afr's proper and then turning on all of your accessories that draw power from the alternator and then adjusting the "lower" voltage area of your deadtime table. I've never messed w/ DSMLink so I don't know if it has this table available but I would guess that it does.