what does everybody think of these orders ?

[Jason84]

well talked with a helpfull guy today on AIM. this is sorta what i came out with.

DSMotor sport
T3T4 coonversion 50 trim stage 3 .63
VSR 3” SS turboback exhaust
Flex a lite slim fan puller
Apexi AVC-R EBC
6 bolt rod bolts
4g63 main studs
6 bolt head studs
Belt kit
AEM adjustable cams
-6 fittings and hose for FPR install
fuel pump rewire kit
aeromotive adjustable FPR -6
magnecore spare plug wire set 8.5 mm comp set
NGK plug set
ACT 2600lb pressure plate
ACT full face street disk
ACT clutch alignment tool
ACT throwout bearing
New mitsu water pump kit
New front case incl oil pump gears oil pump seals
Factory mitsu engine gasket kit
RCI aluminum rad catch can

Extreme psi
Extreme psi race core kit
Walbro 255l high pressure w/ install kit
TurboSX type H RFL
Apexi super AFC fuel computer


im going to kinda do a engine rebuild (pistons/rods/cams also dont know which ones but might wait till after winter to do them) the head is going to get done to might wait till after winter.
also need to figure out which injectors to get.

also was wondering if i should stick with the 6 fuel line or go to 10 ??

if you guys think i should get different parts or something let me know your opinions.

 

[91 NT Eclipse]

You must be loaded!

 

[jdmawd]

Originally posted by Jason84

if you guys think i should stop posting let me know your opinions.

i agree 100%

 

[MNGSX]

im going to kinda do a engine rebuild (pistons/rods/cams also dont know which ones but might wait till after winter to do them) the head is going to get done to might wait till after winter.

The full T3/T4 is nice but not required especially for just a 50 trim
Just check this rig.

http://www.buschurracing.com/Conquest1.html

BR ported 2G exhaust manifold
BR650 internally gated turbocharger

The 2g manifold seems to flow enough up top and the internal gate appears to be working well.

Stick with -6 if you are running gasoline it will be plenty for a 50 trim.

Skip the- Apexi crap
Optiions

1. get a cheaper EBC like profec B
2. Emanage with EBC add on
3. DSM link
4. Full blown stand alone with integrated boost controll.

Skip this crap- TurboSX type H RFL

Use a crushed 1g or a big ass tial BOV.

It's good general idea you got there but watch as you start to assemble and shop for stuff how it will change.

As for injector size it depends on what you do for control. A real stand alone I would'nt run anything less than 720's.

 

[kpt4321]

Originally posted by Jason84

T3T4 coonversion 50 trim stage 3 .63

This is a good turbo, but probably not nesessary. Without a better view of your goals, we cannot tell you what to buy.

MANY MANY people have gone VERY fast on the stock 1g or 2g exhaust manifold, with bolt on turbos, either mitsu or hybrids.

VSR 3” SS turboback exhaust

Good choice.

Flex a lite slim fan puller

You might or might not need this, depending on what intercooler and radiator you end up with. You do not have to buy it right away though, necessarily. It certainly would not hurt though.

Apexi AVC-R EBC

I do not think this is a good choice. I *always* support the use of the Hallman or Joe P. MBC's, which are $50, compared to who knows what exhorbant price on the AVC-R.

However, if you feel the need to get an EBC, the Profec-B is one of the only ones that I would consider.

6 bolt rod bolts
4g63 main studs

I assume you mean ARP studs for these? Unless you are building a race motor, which is not necessary unless you want to run 10's or faster, just leave these parts alone.

6 bolt head studs

Again, I assume you mean ARP's? This is a good choice, and generally the accepted standard.

Belt kit

Timing belt kit? Does the car need a timing belt? If so, double check with Conicelli on the price of this kit, they might be cheaper.

AEM adjustable cams

These are probably not necessary. There is no real reason to get cam gears unless you want to make a LOT (500+) of power.

Also, it is important to note that the only real way to get cam gears dialed in, is to buy some dyno time.

-6 fittings and hose for FPR install

Yup, you will need this and the FPR if you want to run any fuel pump that is big enough to keep up with a bigger turbo.

Check out Buschur's bolt-on SX FPR (www.buschurracing.com).

fuel pump rewire kit

You probably don't need the "kit," and it might be cheaper to buy the parts on your own. I would suggest you do this mod though.

magnecore spare plug wire set 8.5 mm comp set
NGK plug set

These work great, although I prefer NGK wires.

ACT 2600lb pressure plate
ACT full face street disk
ACT clutch alignment tool
ACT throwout bearing

Good choice, although get a Mitsu TOB rather than the ACT one.

New mitsu water pump kit
New front case incl oil pump gears oil pump seals
Factory mitsu engine gasket kit

Again, these are all good ideas, but you don't necessarily need to spend all the time and money on these unlesss you are already rebuilding the motor. If the car has a good motor in it already, just use it.

Extreme psi race core kit

Just make sure to look at the FMIC's avalible from other vendors, before you decide on this particular one.

Walbro 255l high pressure w/ install kit

www.autoperformanceengineering.com has Walbro pumps for cheaper than anywhere else.

TurboSX type H RFL

This is a decent, but not great BOV. I would say just stick with the 1g BOV, or get a Tial.

Apexi super AFC fuel computer

This is proven, but not your only option, there are a lot of other fuel solutions out there.


Now, I do not know who you talked to online, but you certainly should not just take whatever they tell you and do it. It looks to me like they just spend a lot of time at only a few websites, and don't really know a ton about mods.

You should do a lot more research and learn some things before you just go crazy and start ordering parts.

....Kyle T.

 

[Jason84]

the guy knows a decent amount he mainly just helped me pick out the turbo and exhaust.
he runs aurora racing.

im building a daily driver street machine.

and the parts i was just going to replace them while i have the engine out. the waterpump is something that usually does go and id like to have as much of a fresh engine as possible for when i put everything on.

And plan on getting the AEM system or maybe even a haltech. i have a guy near me that is going to tune it all. he has a supra turbo w/ the AEM system and is going to school to be a toyota mechanic. his supra is pretty nice to.

and im trying to get alot of opinions so thats why i posted all that here. i dont plan on ordering it for about 2 weeks yet.

i need to get a set of pistons and rods to i know i dont need them but the engine has 140k on it and while its out illl just replace them.

 

[MNGSX]

Originally posted by Jason84
the guy knows a decent amount he mainly just helped me pick out the turbo and exhaust.
he runs aurora racing.

im building a daily driver street machine.

Then use a GOOD internally gated bolt on with a ported 2g manifold and a tubular o2 housing. It will be cheaper and do everything you need it to do.

Originally posted by Jason84
and the parts i was just going to replace them while i have the engine out. the waterpump is something that usually does go and id like to have as much of a fresh engine as possible for when i put everything on.

And plan on getting the AEM system or maybe even a haltech. i have a guy near me that is going to tune it all. he has a supra turbo w/ the AEM system and is going to school to be a toyota mechanic. his supra is pretty nice to.

and im trying to get alot of opinions so thats why i posted all that here. i dont plan on ordering it for about 2 weeks yet.

i need to get a set of pistons and rods to i know i dont need them but the engine has 140k on it and while its out illl just replace them.

If the engine has 140k on it bore it with a deck plate to oversize (preferably forged) pistons but 1g or 2g cast will work. If you are doing cast factory style pistons the cost of machining the rods for 2g pistons IMHO does'nt justify the results. By the time that is done you are close to the cost of forged in whatever CR you want to direct fit the rods.

With the AEM EMS make sure he gets with the AEM EMS 4g63 crowd as debuging for DSM's is different than toys. This is important as some bugs exist that can knock ignition timing off far enough to fry your engine.

 

[Jason84]

ok i wanted to get an externaly gated one but i guess it doesnt make a difference really.

money isnt really a problem on the upgrades. id rather spend more and have a good running long lasting engine then going cheap. im probably spending about 10gs or so on this car.

i was thinking either ross racing pistons or the wisecos.
and the crower or eagle rods.

also was thinking of getting HKS cams and valve springs. but if i dont need to replace them i wont.

 

[Cirus_93TSI]

not that the apexi avc-r isnt nice, it is, but for the price of that and the safc u will need to use bigger injectors u could get an apexi power FC stand alone, its obd1 so it will connect right up to a 1g, it does not require a laptop, it comes with its own handheld controler, and it completly replaces ur ecu
and the turbo xs bov is a piece of crap, either use a 1g, or if ur planing on running 25+ psi get a tial or a greddy type R(the type s leaks at about 22 psi)
as for a turbo, id say u want an external wastegate, but theres no sense in buying a t4 manifold to use a garret turbo, unless ur getting a 60 trim for a drag only car garret turbos are pointless to get, and IMO they are pieces of crap, u can get a mitsu turbo or a mitsu garret hybrid that will bold right up to ur stock manifold that will make as much if not more power on pump gas, but its ur money so u can buy whatever u want with it, but i hope u dont expect to get a t3/t4 and run 9s or 10s on pump gas on the street, because u wolnt

 

[Jason84]

alright thanks for the tips ill look into the other turbos also. i was just looking at the "kits" figured it might be easier to since id ont know much about what fits what etc.

i changed my mind on that turboxs to i am going witht he tial.

and yes i wanted to go with an external wastegate.

 

[MNGSX]

It used to be that an External gate just could'nt cut it.

With cars running times like..... 8 seconds on an internal gate it kinda backs up my point that internally gated turbos have come a long long way.

There is still nothing wrong with a good external gate their capabilities have not gone away. Some internal gate designs have been steadily improving and are now near par with many external gates.

Either will work well. Internal is just simpler and easier to set up especially for those with a 2g manifold already.

 

[Jason84]

yeah ic.

i dont want the car to be super fast its a dialy driver so i want it to last without breaking alot.
i only expect to run mid 11s. and ill spend the money to put the good parts on to make it last so it dont break down.

 

[LookMomNoBdyKit]

ARP Hardware is something I would invest in. Whether it's a 9 or 10 second race car or a 12 second street car, they are a very good choice. Definitely worth the price for the piece of mind you get with them. I'm a big fan of the Greddy Type R valve.

Jason84, didn't I chat with you on AOL Instant Messanger a while back? Your name seems very familiar.

Anyways best of luck,

PS:

Originally posted by jdmawd

Originally posted by Jason84
if you guys think i should stop posting let me know your opinions.

i agree 100%

Note-to-self.

:laugh: hhahahahahahhahahahahahhahahahahahaha:laugh:

 

[MNGSX]

http://www.arp-bolts.com/pages/products/products.html

There you go dude.

They have a bolt and/or stud for any place on the car.