The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Resolved Transmission stuck, not coming out.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

oneslowwdsm

10+ Year Contributor
858
124
Mar 30, 2009
Spring, Texas
My transmission seems to be stuck. I've been pulling transmissions on these cars for the better part of 5 years so I'm no noob and I've never come across this problem before. It is about an inch if that away from the block and I can pry it a bit to get it to separate but it doesn't want to budge. I've tried bolting the slave up and pushing on the pedal but still doesn't want to give in.

Seems like my worse nightmare is here and the clutch disk may have fused to the input shaft or somehow one of pressure plate fingers broke and got stuck somewhere not allowing me to get the transmission off. (Trans stopped going into gear that's why I'm pulling it) My arms are completely shot from trying to get this thing off so I'll most likely be fabbing up a tool to get to the pressure plate bolts through the clutch fork hole.

Anyone have any other ideas before I attempt this? I'll post pics and maybe even a video to update this thread.
 
^that's exactly what I did. So just as I suspected, clutch is seized onto the input shaft.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Anyone have any ideas on how to get it off aside from PB blasting the sh** out of it or prying it off? Also, any opinions on what causes this? Not enough grease on the input shaft? Too much torque? Or just a terribly designed ACT clutch disk?

Also, for anyone running into this issue, it is a PITA to get the PP bolts off but just take your time. I used this to get the bolts loose:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

It is 9/16 straight key with a 1/4" 12mm. I used a bench grinder to grind the 12mm down a bit and then hammered it in to the 9/16 side. Use this tool to loosen the bolts then use a regular 12 key to get them the rest of the way. This needs to be done with the slave cylinder unbolted first to loosen then bolted with the clutch held down for the rest of the way.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Cut the hub out and slide hammer? Splines may be twisted

I'm guessing I would go about doing that by cutting the rivets out? I'm going to be tackling this tomorrow, hopefully I'll be able to get it out without having to cut anything. The splines don't SEEM to be twisted just from looking at it. If they are, that would suck. I don't have any reputable transmission shops nearby and good luck trying to find another trans. I believe this one was previously rebuilt too.
 
Not sure how many of you still stand by ACT clutches but..

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You can see where the threads started stripping. Seems like a hit or miss with these clutch sets. I was fine on my 2100 setup years ago seems like the grippier the clutch the more problems.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


That's the input shaft. Zero play and the threads look perfect. I think I dodged a serious bullet here. Anyone interested, I soaked the shaft with PB blaster and WD40 penetrate rust inhibitor stuff and let it sit overnight. Came back the next day and gave the disc a few good pounds with my hammer and it popped right off. Don't hit too hard, don't wanna bend your shaft. This sounds awkward.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top