This article is for the connector located on the radiator / condensor fan or for the harness side.
For the unfortunate souls who find what a pain it is to disassemble, I am providing tips and cutaway pictures to see how the locks work, in case one can't afford messing up this connector. I used these connectors for a custom harness adpater to fit the 1G CAS into my 97 GSX engine harness.
Although, I can't say for sure if all these style connectors are like this but, I pulled one off a 1996 Eclipse GS and another off a 1995 Talon TSI AWD.
So here is the 4 pin connector. First remove the housing which keeps all the locks in place. I am talking about the pink plastic piece shown, take a small flat blade screwdriver and pry up on each side, a little at a time. Be careful- chances are they are old and might crack if you force too much.
Next, pop out the rubber sealing piece.
After fighting with these things with no success, I gave in and cut up a spare with a dremel to see just what is holding the pins in so well. This is what I found, I call "dual locking". Which may come to a surprise, I know, but it actually has a locking tab on both sides of the pin.
This next picture shows pulling back the inside tab first. This is the first tab to mess with on the connector, since you can stress it just enough to keep it from springing back into its native locking position. This is so you can work on the other side without this tab interfering anymore.
Now with that out of the way, move out to the outside locking tab. This one is a litle tricker since it doesn't have such a good lip like the inside tab did. It has more of an indentation that looks like a dot.
Here is the lock in it's regualr position, holding the the pin in.
This shows my pick holding the tab out of its locking postition. By now, both locks are released, and the pin can be pulled out the back of connector.
When putting the connector back together, make sure to bend that inside locking tab back to where it was before. Otherwise, the pink housing will not slip back into it's fully seated position and you will be very displeased that you must take the pins back out.
Overall, I like the security of these style connectors. Once you chill out, it is possible to deal with the bomb disarming techniques outlined and take apart connectors flawlessly undetectable to others.
For the unfortunate souls who find what a pain it is to disassemble, I am providing tips and cutaway pictures to see how the locks work, in case one can't afford messing up this connector. I used these connectors for a custom harness adpater to fit the 1G CAS into my 97 GSX engine harness.
Although, I can't say for sure if all these style connectors are like this but, I pulled one off a 1996 Eclipse GS and another off a 1995 Talon TSI AWD.
So here is the 4 pin connector. First remove the housing which keeps all the locks in place. I am talking about the pink plastic piece shown, take a small flat blade screwdriver and pry up on each side, a little at a time. Be careful- chances are they are old and might crack if you force too much.
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Next, pop out the rubber sealing piece.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
After fighting with these things with no success, I gave in and cut up a spare with a dremel to see just what is holding the pins in so well. This is what I found, I call "dual locking". Which may come to a surprise, I know, but it actually has a locking tab on both sides of the pin.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
This next picture shows pulling back the inside tab first. This is the first tab to mess with on the connector, since you can stress it just enough to keep it from springing back into its native locking position. This is so you can work on the other side without this tab interfering anymore.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Now with that out of the way, move out to the outside locking tab. This one is a litle tricker since it doesn't have such a good lip like the inside tab did. It has more of an indentation that looks like a dot.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Here is the lock in it's regualr position, holding the the pin in.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
This shows my pick holding the tab out of its locking postition. By now, both locks are released, and the pin can be pulled out the back of connector.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
When putting the connector back together, make sure to bend that inside locking tab back to where it was before. Otherwise, the pink housing will not slip back into it's fully seated position and you will be very displeased that you must take the pins back out.
Overall, I like the security of these style connectors. Once you chill out, it is possible to deal with the bomb disarming techniques outlined and take apart connectors flawlessly undetectable to others.
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