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manual boost controller help!

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The car may feel slower but it should be faster.
Remeber that Turbo Chargers work off of heat effency. The higher boost pressure the more heat that you make and accutally end up losing power. But even on a T25 with just a 1-2 psi increase you wont be making that much more heat. It might just be one of those things that it just might feel slower to you. Unless you acctually time stuff like 10-60mph at both setting we wont know.
 
hmm ok well i can tell you right now before i used to pull away from my friends 240 from a 30mph roll and now hes pulling away...:cry:
 
It really could be slower!

You could be boosting too much, and the ECU is pulling timing because of knock.
.....problem is you just can't know until you get a logger (I don't see logger, or gauges in your mods list)

You cannot trust your stock boost gauge at all

...Turn down your boost again and try your buddies 240 from a roll.
If its fast again then you know you have tuning issues.
If it's even more slow then you may have a boost leak, or something else.
Check for boost leaks.... if thats OK, check compression on your motor.
Also check your spark plugs to see if you are running lean, or rich. (if black=Rich, if light brown or white=lean)

I know that dosent answer much, but it'll give you places to start looking.
Good luck!
 
nah i got a boost gauge i just forgot to update the list....i just checked my plugs and they seemed a lil brownish white do i need to get a fuel pump if so which should i get??

about the boost leak test i dont know how to do it, and tommorow hopefully me and my dad are going to do a compresion test...actually if im not mistaken when i put the boost controller on and tighten it i did hear a like a thump thump thump sound coming from my air filter...is that knocking? if so im going to take out the boost controller and putting it back to stock!!!ASAP!!OMG

i think that turbo is going bad anyways cause top end it sucks CULO!!!(a**)
 
i just checked my plugs and they seemed a lil brownish white

Depending on how much whitish color there is it could be an indication of running lean. This may help:

http://www.dansmc.com/spark_plugs/spark_plugs_catalog.html

Of course for spark plug readings to truly be accurate you should put in fresh plugs, do a couple of WOT pulls and then check them immediately. You can also look for a ring on the porcelain just inside the end of the threaded portion of the plug. The closer the ring is to the tip of the plug the richer the A/F ratio. The closer the ring is to the base of the porcelain the leaner the mixture.

Also make sure that your clutch isn't beginning to slip. The extra torque could have been enough to do this if it was already beginning to fade.

But as everyone else suggested, start with the boost leak test.:thumb:

NewTurboTuner gave some very good advice.
 
Also make sure that your clutch isn't beginning to slip. The extra torque could have been enough to do this if it was already beginning to fade.QUOTE]

1. the plug's color is kinda more white.. but i noticed that where it says NGK R on the top white part of the plugs its brown is it supposed to be like that? ive never seen spark plugs have that there what could that be?
2. i got an AT but i do feel the tranny being sluggish. i think it needs a rebuild i just dont what i should do
3. i just put the set up back to stock and the car is running better than it was, i dont know what the hell is going on i guess i have to do a boost leak test..
for the compression test what are normal numbers for each piston?just a heads up so when hopefully i do it tomm i have a referrence.. thanks
 
Do not tap your BOV line for the mbc, doing so will result in an open BOV under WOT, switch your boost referece back to the compressor housing. This however, doesn't mean you shouldn't go ahead with the leak test anyway.
 
Ideal compression on a 2G is 178 psi. Service limit is 133 psi. This should help:

http://www.geocities.com/dsmgrrrl/FAQs/compression.htm

But as previously mentioned it sounds like you may be getting timing pulled due to knock. Living in a warm region and still being on the stock SMIC isn't helping. A logger would be very helpful right now.

Try running it with the MBC installed again but drive it at a cooler time of the day to see if that makes any difference. You can also try running a couple gallons of race gas or any high octane gas that you may have access to in order to see if that changes anything. If it does then that would further support the theory that your timing is being pulled as a result of knock.
 
Do not tap your BOV line for the mbc, doing so will result in an open BOV under WOT, switch your boost referece back to the compressor housing. This however, doesn't mean you shouldn't go ahead with the leak test anyway.


oooh whoops is there a picture or something i can find or look at of someone that has it like that and not on the BOV? and um....why did i get a warning?:confused:


thanks romeen for the advice, theres not much i can do about the weather here it sucks, and about the logger by that do you mean DSMlink? is there another logger i can use i cant get a labtop anytime soon.
 
oooh whoops is there a picture or something i can find or look at of someone that has it like that and not on the BOV?
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=237982

and um....why did i get a warning?:confused:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/faq.php?faq=faq_rules#faq_newthreads

Use proper punctuation, spelling, and grammar in your post. I know this request might sound petty but if you want people to be considerate and take the time to reply to your thread and/or answer your question, the least you can do is take the time and type out your post using basic typing skills.
 
Wow that strict about grammar, no problem with that i guess.

Yea i hope that is the problem with the boost controller, i may put it back on tonight I'll let you guys know the results.
 
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